Trying to get some information on case forming for a 6mm 30-30 AI for my TC Contender carbine. I am sizing down new 30-30 brass to 7mm, then down to 6mm to fit the chamber trimming to length and fire forming. What I get is splits in the shoulder and poorly formed shoulders. The case splits are indeed in the shoulder as opposed to the neck or web. Any ideas on what I am doing wrong ?

Don't have any experience with this particular round. How are you seating your bullets? What kind of fireforming load are you using? In times past I had that problem with a 30 Herrett in a Contender and started seating my bullets to touch the lands when the action was closed. Don't remember the load but it was not too hot. Alternatively, you might try loading a primer, 3 or 4 grains of Bullseye, filling rest of way with cornmeal, then plugging with cotton and fire. Hope this helps!

Good Hunting,

[ 12-04-2003, 20:59: Message edited by: ACRecurve ]

For a fire forming load I was using a moderate load (28.0 gr.)of RL-15 right from the data on the Bullberry website behind a 80 gr. Sierra BTSP seated against the lands. The case comes out with a rounded appearing shoulder with small wrinkles and two small splits in the shoulder on opposite sides of the case. I tested two and stopped when it was apparent I was doing something incorrectly. The neck in the chamber is tight....not so much so that it pinches the bullet but snug.

I am assuming the splits in the cases are running lengthwise instead of around the case.
Try annealing them before fireforming.I have had the same type of splits when I neglected to anneal the cases before fireforming.

WC

Wildcat..........yep splits run lengthways from the body thru the shoulder area to the neck. I don't have lots of info. on annealing....what do you have to do. This is new brass if that makes any difference.

Annealing can be easily done with a propane torch. Be careful to keep the heat away from the head of the case as you do not want to soften the head.

Do the annealing in an area of low light,so you can see the slightest color change in the case.You do not want the case to turn red.

An easy way to hold the case is to use an electric screwdriver with an adapter and a 9/16
socket for a 30/30 based case.Insert the base of the case into the socket,hold it into an upright position,turn on screwdriver,and hold tip of flame on the area to be annealed.When the color changes to the blue - black range drop the case into a pan of water.If the area being heated turns red it is hotter than is desirable.

Practice on some of your scrap cases,the job is easy once you get the hang of it.

WC

WC
Its tips and help like that ....that keep bringing me back to this website/forum. Won't get a chance to try it til next week as I have an appointment with a late plains deer here in Colorado this weekend. Again thanks for your help and have a good one.

A just for the heck of it, try this it worked on a friends 30-30 to 219. Almost any old die you have that is around 30 cal and not being used. Cut it down so you can form the whole neck and shoulder back farther than you need say 1/8 inch then the 7 and 6 leaving a small shoulder or bump of the 30 cal size. My friend cut down an old 308 seater for this purpose. The 219 has a longer tapered shoulder but he was getting splits in them as you describe. May be me seeing this done 25yrs ago will help today.

When sizing for the Herretts or my 7mm Int-R (7mm-30-30 improved) in a Contender, I leave a false shoulder in the brass, just enough that it takes a fair bit of effort to close the gun (you can feel the resisitance when you try to close it). This seems to prevent the splitting 98% of the time. FWIW - dan

Todd Kindler of the Woodchuck den just did an article in the last Small caliber news except it is a 6.5. They are called the classic series. Give him a call. The article was pretty impressive.

Just a thought - start with 7-30 Waters brass and neck turn after sizing. Ive had this problem making 7-30 from 30-30.

Thanks guys for all your help.......got it right last night and they came out perfect. Basically I necked them down as before, annealed them and loaded them way down from where I tried before. What I ended up with are nicely formed, correct length cases. I was trying to avoid turning the necks as 30-30 brass is a bit thin in the necks anyway and all my 7-30 Waters brass is made up from 30-30. I am going to try a batch of .375 Win brass. Now I can get down to biz.