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Inside Neck reaming. suggested tools?
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Picture of Dave Jenkins
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Looks like I am going to have to remove some brass when I neck the 376Steyr case down to .264. Ive been browsing the www and my catalogs for tools. I'm leaning towards Forster setup that works with a drill press. Was wondering why their neck reamers are a thou or two over bullet diameter instead of under??
Appreciate any input...
 
Posts: 569 | Location: VA, USA | Registered: 22 January 2002Reply With Quote
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larger than bullet dia. is for reaming after firing but before sizing and smaller than dia. is for reaming after sizing or with new brass.

Forester made up both types for me in 416 rigby and not sure of the advantages of one over the other (i had problems with thick neck and over dia. soft bullets).

rgds,

steve
 
Posts: 360 | Location: Florissant, Colorado  | Registered: 29 September 2002Reply With Quote
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My experience with neck reaming involves a die and reamer mounted in the reloading press. If you want to do a perfect job this setup will give you the best concentricity since the outside of the neck is supported while the neck is being reamed. These dies can be ordered from RCBS and I believe CH and maybe others too.
bigbull
 
Posts: 408 | Location: CANADA | Registered: 06 April 2004Reply With Quote
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The problem with reaming a neck using nothing to support the case is that the reamer follows the path of least resistance and will certainly leave more on one side of the neck than the other. The case walls will vary.

Both Forster and Wilson will make up custom reamers to be used in their trimmers in any size you specify. Of these 'floating' reamers Wilson is better as the case is at least supported in the case holder. By far the best method is a reaming die. RCBS no longer customizes their dies. Redding does but their initial tooling costs are high. I've had reamers made by Forster and Wilson and I own a couple of reamer dies made by RCBS before they quit doing custom work. These are definitely the preferred solution if you don't mind spending well over $100 for the best solution.
 
Posts: 1261 | Location: Placerville, CA, US of A | Registered: 07 January 2001Reply With Quote
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In necking down and removing brass from the necks I started out years ago reaming. Never did do a first class job. Even with pilots and collet or die held cases there always seemed to be a problem with symetry ( brass thicker on one side). I now only reduce neck thickness by removing brass externally.The amount of neck reduction does not preclude outside turning; 375 to 6.5 is no problem. roger
 
Posts: 10226 | Location: Temple City CA | Registered: 29 April 2003Reply With Quote
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Quote:

" Maybe I should outside turn at 30 cal prior to running up into the 264 die. See where that gets me.
As for the other suggestions I thought about running a reamer down from the top of the die with the decapping rod assembly removed. "




That's exactly how I started. I was great at NOT getting the job done right. You can not go wrong by at least trying ,however. Learning by experience makes the biggest impression. roger
 
Posts: 10226 | Location: Temple City CA | Registered: 29 April 2003Reply With Quote
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Dave,
Just wondering, why you are set on inside reaming? I believe you will get a better, more consistent result from outside turning. The tooling is a bit cheaper, and more available, too. I do it all the time using my Forester trimmer, and their outside neck turning accessory.


It's the little things that matter.
 
Posts: 353 | Location: East Texas | Registered: 22 January 2003Reply With Quote
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Bug,
yeah there is a post missing from those above...where I pretty much came to those conclusions...figure I'd turn at the 30 cal stage.
thanks
 
Posts: 569 | Location: VA, USA | Registered: 22 January 2002Reply With Quote
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