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Annealing???
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I saw an article a long time ago written by Rick Jamison and in it there was a picture of a case annealer, I seem to remember it was Grey in color and used a propane torch and the cases moved in a circle on some kind of wheel??
Anyways anyone know who made this or one like it???
If not anyone out there no of a way to E-mail Mr. Jamison to find out???
 
Posts: 36 | Location: THE WISCONSIN | Registered: 25 November 2003Reply With Quote
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Have you seen the annealing tip from the Woodchuck Den? This might take care of your needs.

Just a thought,

H380
 
Posts: 33 | Registered: 28 April 2003Reply With Quote
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They had no pic on the sight... The machine I'm talkin about did it all and you could load it with cases - it looked like an old telephone dial and would turn and drop the cases in coolant.....

NEVER throw out old magizines!! Never!!
I've said this a couple of hundred times....

What is the tip some kind of rosebud????
 
Posts: 36 | Location: THE WISCONSIN | Registered: 25 November 2003Reply With Quote
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Mic McPherson also wrote this up a few years back in Precision Shooting magazine.
 
Posts: 4360 | Location: Sunny Southern California | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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Here is an annealer. Cost me $2.50 to build. Place case on turntable, throw toggle switch, hit with the Bernzo-Matic, pluck into the sink of water.

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Posts: 1844 | Location: Southwest Alaska | Registered: 28 February 2001Reply With Quote
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Is this what you are thinking of?

 -

http://www.kenlightmfg.com/products.html

[ 11-30-2003, 22:06: Message edited by: Dutch ]
 
Posts: 4564 | Location: Idaho Falls, ID, USA | Registered: 21 September 2000Reply With Quote
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THAT'S IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Posts: 36 | Location: THE WISCONSIN | Registered: 25 November 2003Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by stevozrex:
I seem to remember it was Grey in color and used a propane torch and the cases moved in a circle on some kind of wheel??

Like this one?
http://www.kenlightmfg.com/products.html

Scroll about two thirds of the way down the page.
 
Posts: 62 | Location: SF East Bay Area - California | Registered: 20 October 2003Reply With Quote
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Personally I like the method I was taught.
Lock the propane torch on the edge of a table paralelle to the floor. Put bucket of water on the floor under the torch. Light torch.
Hold case by the base with fingers, put neck of case into the flame. When the base gets too hot to hold, open fingers and drop case in water.
Case annealed!
Jim
 
Posts: 6173 | Location: Richmond, Virginia | Registered: 17 September 2000Reply With Quote
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Arkypete,

That is why I made mine. I burned too many fingers. I knew there had to be a better way. Once you get into the hang of it and get the sequence down, cases go pretty quick. They are quite uniform too.
 
Posts: 1844 | Location: Southwest Alaska | Registered: 28 February 2001Reply With Quote
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Dutch recommended this site a while back. It provides some good info!

http://www.gun-tests.com/performance/jun96cases.html

DaMan

PS - No wonder that gun-tests article is so good. It was written by Dr. Ken Howell!

[ 12-01-2003, 09:13: Message edited by: DaMan ]
 
Posts: 49226 | Registered: 21 January 2001Reply With Quote
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Nitroman,

Is your turntable made from a casette player... or some other modified device?

Details?

$2.50 sounds expensive! [Big Grin]
 
Posts: 913 | Location: Palmer, Alaska | Registered: 15 June 2002Reply With Quote
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Guys,

I don't think dropping a hot catridge into bucket of water is doing the annealing that you want.

If you rapidly cool a hot piece of metal in a liquid (or some other very cold environment) you are "quenching" it and hardening it (and making it brittle). If you heat it and then allow it to cool slowly then it "anneals" (softens) it and removes stress' and hardening due to "cold" working (bending) of the metal.

Roi
 
Posts: 626 | Location: The soggy side of Washington State | Registered: 13 July 2003Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by 510wells:
If you rapidly cool a hot piece of metal in a liquid (or some other very cold environment) you are "quenching" it and hardening it (and making it brittle).

In the case of steel this is correct. The grain structure is altered to make a harder and sometimes more brittle material. In the case of alloys containing copper the opposite is true. Heating and quenching copper softens it. Copper and bronze tools were made by hammering because the working of the metal hardens it.

This is why military cases. (And some new Lapua brass I bought) have the discoloration caused by heating on the case shoulders. The cases were annealed after final sizing.

+++

The reason for turntables is consistancy. I annealed some cases awhile back. Got them too hot or not hot enough. The ones that got too hot also got too soft when I quenched them. Sizing them afterwards caused brass to gall off the necks. Never could get all the brass out of the neck of that sizing die. It kept galling no matter what until I pitched it.
 
Posts: 62 | Location: SF East Bay Area - California | Registered: 20 October 2003Reply With Quote
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DLJ, most cases are annealed after resizing. The difference is that most cases, unlike Lapua and the mil cases you mention, are tumbled after manufacturing to remove any blemishes. This tumbling takes away the tell-tale annealing coloration. FWIW, Dutch.
 
Posts: 4564 | Location: Idaho Falls, ID, USA | Registered: 21 September 2000Reply With Quote
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I annealed some 416 WBY brass a little too much once when I first started doing it, they had pretty soft necks and took a couple reloadings to harden up again. I never experienced any galling, but I use lube on the necks too.

I know a couple people who do not dunk them in water, they say it never gets hot enough near the base if annealing if done correctly.

I dip them in cool water about half way up the case and hold for a count of 5, this way I've got no water in them to dry out. I do my sizing afterward.
 
Posts: 913 | Location: Palmer, Alaska | Registered: 15 June 2002Reply With Quote
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Brent,

How did you guess? Perssonally I find dumpster diving embarassing, up until I decide I need what I see, and I really needed that old multi-function tape deck/turntable (for vinyl!) records/radio setup.

Took me about 20 minutes to cut out the deck, hooked it up to an old 12V power supply and it worked fine. NAPA coughed up a toggle switch and I supplied the scrap wood and four brass screws. Everything nestles into the box for a very high SAF (Spousal Acceptance Factor).

I set up next to the sink and fill it up. Place case on turntable, flick the toggle, hit the neck with the torch and pluck into water. Repeat as necessary. I did 100 trimmed and formed 8x60S cases in about an hour or so. I wasn't in a hurry.

I will admit having one of those wild looking things'ed be nice, but when the cash doesn't cometh, we must make do. [Smile]

[ 12-02-2003, 08:24: Message edited by: Nitroman ]
 
Posts: 1844 | Location: Southwest Alaska | Registered: 28 February 2001Reply With Quote
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Just looked familier. [Big Grin]
Looks like I'll follow your lead. I might just drill a hole in my plywood top reloading bench to set the cartridge case in and mount the deck underneath it. That's about the only place I've got room for anything these days. [Big Grin]

Thanks for the tips! [Smile]
 
Posts: 913 | Location: Palmer, Alaska | Registered: 15 June 2002Reply With Quote
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Place your cases in a cake pan put on your top oven rack fill with water just shy of the shoulder, turn your oven up on broil. When you can see the right color with a long handled wooden spoon tip them over in the (by now hot water) and you should be done and all uniform, remember the oven setting and write it down.
 
Posts: 56 | Location: Howard City, Michigan | Registered: 04 November 2003Reply With Quote
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Wow, Swany, that sounds like a great idea. Can you get the necks hot enough that way? The earlier article said the necks need to get to about 600 degrees. I'm not sure my broiler will get them that hot.
 
Posts: 132 | Location: Idaho | Registered: 22 December 2002Reply With Quote
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