I have my Norma brass ready for fireforming,..and I ave been noticing a few members use a fast powder to form. I will probably be using a 150gr bullet,..and will seat it so that it is scarred by the rifling, to insure strong contact and correct brass flow fron neck area.

My question is,..what powder would the "fast powder" users recommend for this cartridge? I simply loaded and formed my last batch of brass,..but the talk of creating bad headspace and possible "kabooms" has me wondering if I missed something.

thanks.

When I fireform my 6.5 Gibbs with a bullet, I use a mild load of IMR 4895.

When I fireform with cream of wheat, I use a fast pistol powder.

Cheers,
Canuck

Just so's you don't waste those bullets, try 14-16gr of Red Dot, or Unique, fill the case with Cream of Wheat, or cornmeal. Seal it off by pushing the casemouth into a block of bullet lube, parafin, or a bar of soap. Hold the rifle straight up to fire, and you should have pretty well formed cases. Be aware, these aren't quiet! Sound about like a .22 lr. They won't take a LOT of handling, but if you keep them upright, they will transport to the range okay. And they are dangerous. t close range, they can blow a hole in some things that will surprise you! Don't ask me how I know >>>>>>Bug.

I use 22grains unique and top off with cream of wheat and a wax plug to keep it in the case and they come out just perfect

How bad does that foul the barrel,..i.e. wax/parafin etc???

Is there any advantage other than not using a bullet,..and do these form from the case mouth/neck this way instead of the case head?

Thanks

I use 18-20 grains of Unique and Cream of Wheat or grits cereal. I just use a wad of kleenex or paper towel over the top. All the wad does is keeps the cream of wheat in until you fire it. The weight alone is enough resistance to get a complete burn. If you do alot of them, keep an eye on your barrel temperature, cause it will heat up after several. I have fired mine in the basement, but it is noisy and a little messy. I hang up an old blanket to catch the "projectiles".

Ken,..do you stuff the paper towel into the case until it is tight and packed,..or is it lightly shoved in?

Also,..how does this method allow the brass flow from the case neck area,..as the case is not headspaced by a formed shoulder,...and I would think that the case is "loose" in the chamber?

thanks

justc Use any powder you have from 4895,4064,4320 or even 4350. Use a start load for that powder and you will have perfect cases. Remember that with the bullet jammed into the rifling pressure will be higher than if the bullet was moving when it hits the rifling

I've seen a bunch of people ask this same question before. I wouldn't fool with fillers, paraffin, etc. I've always just shot factory new ammo, or mild handloads just like you use in a standard .280 to form cases for the Ackley wildcats. If there's some great problem with doing this I haven't discovered it.

Thank you gentlemen. I scored 400 speer 160gr pills NIB on EPay for CHEAP,..so fireforming with a nice heavy bullet and a light load of 4895 will get my brass off to a good start.

I can't wait,......this rig is a .250" gun all day long,..and the crop damage permits are in full swing.

10.5gr titegroup, grits, tissue paper is what I use for .280 brass for my .30Gibbs. This blows it out to a rounded shoulder that sharpens with first full power load. Save those cheap bullets and the extra powder, they still have value no matter what you paid.

Deke.

If you need to form cases in a hurry the above mentioned methods work fine. If you want to get some shooting in while forming cases, I just load
a normal 280 Remington load with a bullet around
100 grains and go shoot varmints. Lots of fun
and nicely formed 280 AI cases.

I use Bullseye but I'd have to look up the charge but it's only 4 or 5 grains, fill the case with corn meal and a dob of Crisco and fireform it in a sizing die. I really didn't want to fire 500 rounds to get brass and put that much wear on the barrel so I made a tool that the die will screw into for fireforming, it's slick as a button. Email me if you want details.

I use a 280 AI for 1000 yd. prone matches and didn't want to burn up a barrel fire forming cases. So I purchased a 98 Mauser in 7x57, and had the barrel set back and rechambered the same time I had my match barrel done and used it to fire form cases in.

I cast and sized lead bullets and loaded them according to the Lyman cast bullet handbook using 700X.

I use a grain under max with 150s and H4831. If you only need 50 or a 100 just use a bullet and go a little under max for the standard round. I am not a high volume shooter so I never have more than about 200 pieces of brass for any given rifle. By the time I get the barrel broke in and on paper, I ussually have enough formed brass to last a long time. Every case I form is with a bullet. Every gun I shoot is either a Wildcat or Ackleyed. Has anyone checked a barrel with a bore scope after using a plug and filler? Not trying to start anything just wondering how much it saves a barrel. Would some filler maybe imbed. An old benchrest shooter told me that the instant oatmeal will melt. ALot of stuff is getting blown down the barrel and would have to be at least somewhat abbrasive. Does any one get a carbon type ring on their throats? How hard is the barrel to clean after doing up a bunch of brass? I have kicked this method around a few times and will most likly try it. This is one of those two schools of thought I guess. Once again not trying to start a battle just looking for information and experience.

quote:

Originally posted by Blueprinted:
I use a grain under max with 150s and H4831. If you only need 50 or a 100 just use a bullet and go a little under max for the standard round. I am not a high volume shooter so I never have more than about 200 pieces of brass for any given rifle. By the time I get the barrel broke in and on paper, I ussually have enough formed brass to last a long time. Every case I form is with a bullet. Every gun I shoot is either a Wildcat or Ackleyed. Has anyone checked a barrel with a bore scope after using a plug and filler? Not trying to start anything just wondering how much it saves a barrel. Would some filler maybe imbed. An old benchrest shooter told me that the instant oatmeal will melt. ALot of stuff is getting blown down the barrel and would have to be at least somewhat abbrasive. Does any one get a carbon type ring on their throats? How hard is the barrel to clean after doing up a bunch of brass? I have kicked this method around a few times and will most likly try it. This is one of those two schools of thought I guess. Once again not trying to start a battle just looking for information and experience.

I'd go a grain under max with a 150-160gr bullet, and I'd lean towards burning up a cheap bullet (speer?) preferable one you can seat REAL CLOSE to the rifling.

Round noses or "semi-pointed" bullets are perfect for this application...
Hornady used to make a 175gr round nose in 7mm
and that with 50.0gr of IMR4350 should make your brass fill out perfectly.

In a 30-06 I always recommend using IMR4895, but in a 280Rem I'd strongly recommend using IMR4350 for fireforming.

The cream-of-wheat method worked "ok"
as an intermediate step.
Years ago when it was all but impossible to aquire 358Norma Mag brass at any price that didn't involve a trip to sweden... I was making my own 358Norma brass out of 300WinMag.
(No, 338WinMag brass doesn't work right)

a Large rifle primer 12gr of Red Dot
fill the case with cream of wheat load in rifle (clamped in a vice and pointed skyward)
pull the trigger and "bang" a prety well formed 358 Norma case once you trimmed it to length
(in a file type trim die)and ran it through a FL sizer...

Though they still weren't perfectly formed until you fired a near full power load of IMR4350 with a cheap (speer) 250gr round nose

Now a days I'm thankful that the 35Whelen inspired resurgence of interest in 358aliber rifles made the 358Norma popular enough
that Cabela's carries Norma brass in bags of 50... Yeah the brass is nearly a buck apeice, but it's still cheaper than sizing and blowing out 340wby cases....(Did that too...)

AllanD

Hornady is comming out with a hydraulic die... you fill the case with water and put it in the die, take rubber hammer and knock on it 3-4 times, and presto, a 280 AI.

Ahhh... they re-invented Rocky Gibbs Bench forming tool?

AllanD

Yeah from what I understand it has been on the market before..

But nice toy.. and dosnt eat your barrel so fast.