The Accurate Reloading Forums THE ACCURATE RELOADING.COM FORUMS Guns, Politics, Gunsmithing & Reloading Gun Cleaning Forum Revolver cleaning questionGo | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply | |
| Revolver cleaning question | Login/Join |
One of Us |
When you clean your revolver, how do you clean that tight area just below the topstrap where the barrel meets the cylinder? I have found no satisfactory way to clean the top of the barrel or the underside of the top strap where flame cutting occurs. Any suggestions? _________________________________ AR, where the hopeless, hysterical hypochondriacs of history become the nattering nabobs of negativisim. | ||
|
| one of us |
One thing you must do is read the owner's manual Some of the light weight revolvers have special coatings and special alloys that can be harmed easily ! Just use an old toothbrush ! | |||
|
| new member |
I assume you're shooting lead bullets because they often leave a lead fouling in this area. The 22 rimfires are especially bad in this regard. First brush the area with a brass brush (tooth brush configuration). Second use a small screw driver and carefully scrap the tight adhereing lead off working it between the top strap and forcing cone and frame. Third, brush the area again. Check for remaining lead deposits - repeat step 2 again until all is removed. For heavily fouled areas, use an eye dropper and saturate the area with Hoppe's 9 then let stand over night then follow the above procedure. I clean mine after every 100 rounds to prevent build up. | |||
|
| one of us |
+1 | |||
|
One of Us |
I agree with the Hoppes #9 (actually my ex loved the smell so well she thought they ought to make an after shave.) Use Kroil oil w/ a bit of fine grit valve lapping compound.It will clean up any build up on cylinder face or bore with great results. Brownell's sells it but so does your corner auto supply.Not trying to take sales from Brownell's (our primary pts. dept. + 2nd advocate) just there are other options on low dollar items. Never mistake motion for action. | |||
|
| One of Us |
Side note: hijack: Some ten yrs ago I bought a Charter Arms snubby. After about 300 rnds of cast plinkers the bridge was cut over half way thru there. I sold it and bought a S&W airweight just like it. Have fired about 600 thru this one and not any sign of cutting at all. Cleans up nicely. George "Gun Control is NOT about Guns' "It's about Control!!" Join the NRA today!" LM: NRA, DAV, George L. Dwight | |||
|
| one of us |
For a really bad one, I have coated a string, or nylon twine depending on the actual gap, with JB or lapping compound and pulled it back and forth several times between brushings. Kind of like flossing for revolvers.   Larry "Peace is that brief glorious moment in history, when everybody stands around reloading" -- Thomas Jefferson | |||
|
| One of Us |
I'll try that, thanks. _________________________________ AR, where the hopeless, hysterical hypochondriacs of history become the nattering nabobs of negativisim. | |||
|
| One of Us |
On my stainless Ruger GP-100 I use Flitz and a toothbrush. | |||
|
| new member |
Wow! Never thought of that - I'm going to try it - sounds like a great idea!!! | |||
|
| new member |
I have a Taurus Tracker in 357 Mag, and my wife has a Charter Lavender Lady in 38 Spec. What I found to work the best is a pipe cleaner or two soaked in Hoppes #9 solvent. You can pull them right through the tiny gap between the strap and the barrel root. It takes a little time and elbow grease but it works. | |||
|
| One of Us |
You can use a small piece of brass shim stock to scrape the crud out, then use Hoppe's to to clean it up. This works on steel framed guns but I would be a little careful with an alloy frame. C.G.B. | |||
|
one of us |
I use a stiff toothbrush and some Lead-Out. (made by the same company as Wipe-Out) I shoot a lot of cowboy action, so I'm always cleaning out some lead fouling.. NRA Benefactor. Life is tough... It's even tougher when you're stupid... John Wayne | |||
|
| one of us |
you can use a small thread that's impregnated with very fine grit, also in all grits..Ihave them in rolls for gunstock work, but they work great on metal and don't forget the used tooth brush and air hose, it will move a lot of stuff and not damage metal. Such cleaning jobs should come to you as second nature, just keep working at them until they work. Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
|
| Powered by Social Strata |
 | Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |
|
Visit our on-line store for AR Memorabilia