I am not familiar with Kroil at all. I read somewhere that it can be used as a bore cleaner. Is this true, if so how do you use it and what kind of job does it do? I am referring to the Kroil oil/lube (the one that creeps).

I have used Kroil to clean gun bores (only) for several years. It does not do a great job by itself. I mix it 50/50 with Shooter Choice or your bore cleaner. I first wet the bore and let set for at least 30 minutes, hit with a brush about 10-15 strokes, then several kroil patches. Then I foam the bore with Wipe Out, let set an hour foam again, foam again, let set another hour. Clean with straight Kroil and then hit bore with a good gun oil. Kroil is not rated very good as a rust protectant but does creep in and loosen things up.

I use alittle kroil after initial cleaning and it does do a good job to penatrate and clean more stuff out.

A good bore cleaner for well broke-in barrels is a 50/50 mixture of Kroil and General Motors Upper Engine and Fuel Injector Cleaner, which is a carbon solvent. You can get it in the parts dept. of any GM car dealership. Thoroughly wet the bore, let it stand for an hour or so, then use additional wet patches until they come out clean. Dry the bore, and then run a patch wet with Ezzox through the barrel. Ezzox is a synthetic oil that drys leaving a residue film that offers excellent protection from rust.

For bores with significant copper deposits, a different approach is needed.

I use Bore Tech Eliminator solvent and UPS Bore Paste. I first use the Bore Tech with a nylon bristle brush (it will eat bronze brushes up). Then I coat a patch with the UPS Bore Paste, wrap it around the correct size (i.e., a .30 caliber brush for a .30 caliber rifle) bronze brush, and make about 20 full passes in and out of the bore. I then use Bore Tech to clean out the USP Bore Paste, dry the bore, and apply a patch wet with Ezzox.

Always use a bore guide when cleaning a barrel, whatever method/process you use. With the exception of the GM Cleaner, I get all of my gun cleaning supplies from Midway USA.

Kroil is good stuff, I use it after I've cleaned my guns. I also mix up Ed's Red and use that on my revolvers that I shoot cast bullets with, unfortunately it won't cut copper. For my rifles I use Butch's and Montana Extreme.

Cheers,
Andy

I use a solvent first, like Hoppe's or Remington. Then I use brake cleaner (or carb cleaner). Then Kroil - let it sit for an hour.
Dry patch it. Then a finish with Eezox.

I use a bread pan full of Kroil to soak parts of my autoloading firearms in before scrubbing. It does wonders in loosing carbon buildup in hard-to-reach places. As far as bores are concerned, I stick with Hoppe's.

BoreTech Eliminator first, then scrub and finish with Kroil. Yes, use oil afterward before you put the rifle up for the day.

I used to do the Shooter's Choice first thing and it worked okay but took way more time.

The past owner of Precision Reloading, when they were still in Connecticut and he was pictured on a jet fighter inside the front cover of his catalog, advised mixing 1\3 Kroil with 2\3 Shooters Choice bore cleaner as a powder solvent. Although 95% of his catalog was dedicated to shotgunners, I'm still using his formula. I can't say definitely that it works better than just Hoppes or Shooters Choice alone, but I bought a gallon of Kroil almost 20 years ago so I keep on mixing it his way. Kroil is a superior penetrant.

I use straight Kroil to clean my rim-fires and it works great.

I nock the barrel with some Hoppe's powder solvent first just to get the visible stuff out.
Next is the 40/60 to 60/40 mix of Kroil and Hoppe's copper solvent.
Tried others but, this seems to work the best for me. Never tried straight up Kroil???

The only product worth anything is JB compound.If I ever meet MR JB,I will in noubt,buy him a beer or thank him for one of the biggest contributions in the shooting world.

I used to do the Shooter's Choice - KROIL - JB Paste thing which takes forever. Once I scrubbed out all the build-up with JB and so on, to get "squeeky clean", all it takes me to get back there now is

(a) nylon brush chamber and bore with Eliminator -- ten strokes wet
(b) patch wet with KROIL and scrub wet ten strokes with bronze brush + KROIL
(c) patch out with two wet and one dry (KROIL)
(d) foaming bore cleaner if copper seen, then patch wet with KROIL and patch dry before (last)
(e) one oil patch followed by a dry one before storing

50/50 Kroil - Hoppe's #9 for me.

The thing about Kroil that's so great is that it's a superb penetrating oil. It gets in behind the lead and copper and let's it slip out much easier.

I used to shoot around 1,000 .45acp lead bullets a month (err, when lead was cheap!). I was semi-competitive. Anyway, I didn't bother to clean my 625 until I started key-holing. Sat back, hit the gun with Kroil, let it soak in, ran a brush a few times, let soak again, and 20 minutes later the patches would come through with, quite literally, sheets and strips of lead stuck to them.

Amazing stuff.

(Yeah yeah, if I'da cleaned the gun more maybe I woulda won something! )

I started using Kroil 8 years ago as part of Walt Berger's moly system.

I have found it invaluable for removing barrels that are rusted on receivers.

It may just be kerosene, but I have a lifetime supply now.

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:
The only product worth anything is JB compound.If I ever meet MR JB,I will in noubt,buy him a beer or thank him for one of the biggest contributions in the shooting world.

i have heard that a 50/50 mix of Kroil and JB's makes an excellent clearner. FS

echo 2.

I've been using Kroil for years and have found that if I run a Kroil soaked mop through the bore after I'm finished shooting and just leave it in there until I get home or in some cases over night the claen up procedure is shortened significantly. Don