I ran a couple of Tests today to see how Abrasive JB Compound is in comparison to some other Compounds. I decided I needed something very soft, which would allow me to easily see any scratching. I used a piece of Galvanized metal and a Soft Toothbrush the last time I did this, maybe 20 years ago, and it did fine. But I thought there might be something easier to see light scratches on – clear soft Plastic.

I had a Tennis Ball Tube left over from cramming some Tennis Balls into some pipes to prevent sparks from getting past where I was sawing the pipes off and the Tube looked like a fine Test Medium.

Found some kind of Metal Abrasive(Polish?) in a Rotary Tool Kit, the JB Compound, Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound and Turtle Wax Polishing Compound on hand.

I applied the various Compounds with a dried-out Baby Wipe which is some kind of synthetic cloth. I was wondering if the Baby Wipe would cause any scratching, but that proved to be negative. I made 100 circular rubs with each Compound on the Tennis Ball Tube and looked at that spot closely under a strong light.

1. The Rotary Tool Abrasive created light scratches.
2. The JB Compound created a Burnished spot – dull in comparison to the rest of the Tube.
3. The Rubbing Compound also created a Burnished or dull spot.
4. The Polishing Compound made no marks of any type. You could not tell it had been used.

Next I used the JB Compound on my watch face. I gave it 250 circular scrubs and it removed some very minute scratches, dings, marred spots, etc. Did the same with the Rubbing Compound. Then I gave the watch 250 circular scrubs with the Polishing Compound and it glistened. The watch still has some small deeper scratches, but they will have to remain.

I intend to try and locate a small tube of Whitening Tooth Paste and get my Bon Ami out to see how they do as well.

No idea if the Rubbing Compound or the Polishing Compound will remove any Copper from a Bore as JB Compound does. If any of you folks with Bore Scopes want to give it a try in a Barrel with some Copper in it, I'd be interested in your results.

Hot Core, You might try "Simichrome" polish just for curiosity.

Hey Mike, I'll look around and see what I have on hand.

5. Comet powder(and water) left very tiny scratches. Smaller than those seen in #1.
6. Bon Ami(and water) created a Burnished or dull spot. Similar to #2 and #3.
7. UltraBright tooth polish made no marks at all. Similar to #4 - but the Tube now smells "Minty".

---or you might try JB bore brite--- a lot of BR shooters use this between relays. Having looked inside barrels polished using this compound I have a pretty good idea of what you'll see

I'd be glad to try the JB Bore Bright, but I do not have any of it.
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8. Simichrome Metal Polish created an extremely light Burnished/Dull spot.
9. Puma Metal Polish created an extremely light Burnished/Dull spot, same as #8.

The only things Tested so far, that I'd not want to use in a Barrel are #1 and #5.

It appears both #8 & #9 are the same compound, both made in Germany too. From a totally subjective view, they both appear to be half as Abrasive as #2, #3 & #6 on the clear soft plastic tube.

Again though, I'd strongly encourage anyone reading this to repeat the Testing for themselves. Always good to verify such stuff.

Good thread and Scientific test HC!

baling wire
duct tape
bon ami
comet
toothpaste

You crack me up HC!



don't forget

toilet bowl cleaners
lava soap with pumice
rid-x septic system treatment




just kidding

do try Flitz

Careful now, Woods. America is held together by baling wire and if the South had of had duct tape, we'd have won the war.

If a problem can't be resolved with Baling Wire, Duct Tape and/or common sense, it is rarely worth bothering with. - Hot Core
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Some of you with the Flitz will have to try it. I do not have any of it.

I thought that was duct tape and WD40. If it moves and isn't supposed to, use duct tape; if it doesn't move and is supposed to, use WD40.

Wait!

You guys forgot rubber bands!

Shot sporting clays with a guy today who was using a rubber band to hold the top lever on his Perazzi over/under ($8,000.00) closed! The locking block was worn out!
See woods! Get with the program!

quote:

Originally posted by wasbeeman:
... if it doesn't move and is supposed to, use WD40.

Excellent point! A neighbor of mine has a problem because his Left Knee "doesn't want to move" on occasion. WD-40 fixes it.

Hi Hot Core,

I've used the following abrasive products for small " Polishing Jobs ".

#220, #400, #800, #1200 grits

http://www.neconos.com/categor...ESSUREFIRELAPPING-20

PAPI

Hey PAPI, Any idea what kind of Abrasive is in the Neco Kit? I've never used the Kit, but have read somewhere on the Board where it tends to move the Throat Forward very quickly.

Hey Hot Core,

Don't know for sure what type of abrasives used ?

BUT.., I read somewhere (??) that it might be crushed " Garnet ". Again not sure ???

I bought the " 4 Grit Kit ", along with some extra " #800, #1200 " to use on a few of my Rifles; Armalite M15 A2 National Match / Remington 870 Vangcomp Shotgun/ ODCMP : M1Garand / Rem 40X / Rem 540XR / Rem 513T / Winchester 52D / Kimber 82G , along with Polishing a few Chambers on my Pistols.

It did make a difference on my " X " counts, off the bench. However, I can't seem to hold tight enough to improve my scores, when I was actively participating in my local " Three or four, Position Matches ", a few years back

I polished the " Barrel " of my Rem Shotgun using an old Brush wrapped with a patch coated with the " #800 " followed by the " # 1200 " using a Cleaning Rod & Electrical Cordless Handrill.

p.s: I did mix in a little " CANO KRIOL ", to make a slurry, before applying it to the patch.
http://www.kanolabs.com/

PAPI

Hey All,

Just some additional " Abrasive " tech info to ponder over ..!

http://www.davidtubb.com/finalfinish.html

http://www.davidtubb.com/tcom_...inish_faqs_sheet.pdf
4. What about other abrasive processes?
For those who use JB Bore Compound, or similar, to break in their barrel, this is also not the best course of action. If you want
to clean you barrel with JB prior to the Final Finish process this should be the last time you use JB on your barrel!
There is no question that JB compound will remove fouling from a barrel, but at what expense? Following feedback from
literally hundreds of Final Finish results, it has been ascertained that you can get a barrel interior too smooth. This results in
increased bullet jacket fouling in the barrel. The polishing compound in JB is significantly finer than 1000 grit (more like 1200-
1400) while a Final Finish bullet with a #3 grit coating is approximately 60% coarser.
Most handlapped barrel makers lap in their barrels with a #150 grit non-embedding aluminum oxide compound which
breaks down into a finer grit with use, ultimately resulting in a grit of approximately #300 to #400 when the barrel lapping
process is finished.... "

PAPI

Here's an experience I had yesterday with a bore cleaner recommended by the Brux Barrel guy, Remington 40x Bore Cleaner. He says that is all they use for the life of any of their barrels.

I went to the range to shoot a few clay targets with my Sporting Gun, the Browning Maxus Autoloader. I have shot the Browning Autos for years; the Gold since '98 and the Maxus for the last 2 years. I hadn't cleaned it for a while; it runs so well with no malfunctions you don't really need to clean it to keep it running My cleaning routine involves removing the gas piston and related items from the outside of the magazine tube, spraying everything with carburetor cleaner (Gumout), and scrubbing down all of the carbon build up on the outside of the magazine tube with a green Scotch Brite scrub pad. If you haven't cleaned it for a while, the carbon is really tough to remove from the magazine tube even with the abrasive pad and successive applications of the carb cleaner.

I scrubbed til my fingers cramped. I looked in my cleaning kit and saw the Remington 40x and decided to try a couple of drops on the tube.

It removed the carbon virtually instantly with a bit of scrubbing. Truly an improvement. I didn't notice any damage to the outside of the tube at all. The tube is chrome plated steel.

Another gunsmith friend told me years ago that that's what they use at the shop. I have had the product for 2 or 3 years and not used it much. After seeing what it can do, I will be using it during the carbon removal stage of my rifle cleaning after every couple of hundred rounds.

Hey everyone,

Decided to clean my " Air Rifles " this morning & had everything out ! So, did my own little test.


1. Clear Plastic lid from a " Dremel Tool Box "
2. Neco Lap #800 grit (Fine)
4. Neco Lap #1200 grit (Polish)
4. JB Bore Bright



Small piece of baby wipe used to swirl/polish with my index finger.


After 100 swirls , the plastic was wiped clean , with almost no noticeable difference.
So I tried another " 100 Swirls " using a Cotton Bore Patch, which did create a little hazing/clouding with on the " #800 & #1200 ".





The " JB Bore Bright " showed no effects, so I used some regular " JB Paste " over the same " Bore Bright " area.





My conclusions:
1. After 100 swirls , there was almost no difference.
2. After 200 Swirls , there was some frosting/ clouding of the clear plastic surface , with just a minor difference between the " #800 & #1200 ".
3. There was no indication the " Bore Bright " had any effects on the " Clear Plastic ".
4. The " JB Paste " appears to have the same effect , somewhere between the " Neco # 800 & Neco # 1200 ".

Well, not an extensive test, but you can see a bit of difference from start to finish !

I find it very difficult to believe, that anyone could " RUIN " any " Steel Barrel ", properly using any of the above products.. !

PAPI

Hey R, Thanks for the tip on the Remington 40X Bore Cleaner. I've never tried it, but I'll get some now.
-----

Hey PAPI, GREAT Test and Flicks! The Flicks really show the change in the transparency very well.

How about FLITZ ?

Hot Core,

Have you ever tested Oisso (sp?) for it's abrasiveness?

I have also tested the abrasives in cleaning a barrel and have come to really like them. I have tried JB Bore Paste, JB Bore Bright, Remington 40x Bore Cleaner, and IOSSO Bore Paste.

Every one of them works, and works well I might add. The Remington is the easiest to clean up, and does the best job on lead fouling by far. It is a little more coarse than the other three.

Both of the JB products work the same. The Bore Bright version does seem to have more shine when done.

The IOSSO is another good product. It gets rid of the carbon ring and copper fouling. I use it the most.

I use them by applying them to a nylon brush with a patch wrapped around it. Make about 25 strokes through the first half of the barrel, reapply some paste, then run 25 more strokes the length of the barrel. Patch out with any bore cleaner. Used regularly, this routine cleans my barrels to the bare steel.

I do have a borescope and this method using these cleaners has worked very well for me.