Just curious.I have been doing this lately with good results.

Why, I would be afraid it would lend to the bore drawing moisture and rust. I just use a dry patch and a couple of fouling shots.

I tend to use CRC after a bush hunt to remove all the crud and dirt that may be stuck to the grease in the lugs, bolt etc. I always flush it out liberally as CRC will gum up the old grease if it is not properly flushed out.

I then apply light grease (not sure what brand it is - given to me by a gunsmith) and some Break Free CRP.

Have posted this previously.
On stubborn bores that require more solvents than normal, especially if left overnight with Hoppe's No. 9. I neutralize the solvent with mineral spirit (Shellite here) after cleaning, dry patch out, then run Sweet's through to remove copper. This is followed by ample amounts on a jag of Methylated Spirits to neutralize the Ammonia.
Enough time is allowed for both procedures to work.
Lastly, a lightly oiled patch is passed down the bore a couple times then removed, the rifle is then stored in the safe.

My only problem was a buddy that had used my rifle for a hunt. I just looked it over and put it away. A few days later, I decided to clean the rifles and give them the once over. I almost fell over when I put the safe light on!
My beautiful Kimber 8400 custom rifle was covered in brown rusty finger/palm prints, even the grip cap was covered!
I normally store my rifles 'dry', as in very little oil on the outside, but, now, if someone else handles them, they get some Butch's Bore Shine Oil wiped over them.

Brakekleen is a very good degreaser, but, it will eat ALL polymers of plastic.

Cheers.

I punch both the bore and the chamber with a degreaser before I start shooting.

quote:

Originally posted by drhall762:
I punch both the bore and the chamber with a degreaser before I start shooting.

I leave Kroil in the barrels. Then a dry patch or two...

You should never fire a shot down a dry barrel. It should be lightly oiled. Oil patch followed by a dry patch. The gun powder will lube from the graphite in it after the first shot.
That's how most benchresters think.

quote:

Originally posted by Pegleg:
You should never fire a shot down a dry barrel. It should be lightly oiled. Oil patch followed by a dry patch. The gun powder will lube from the graphite in it after the first shot.
That's how most benchresters think.

That is what I always thought but I now see it different.It's oil in a bore that is harmful-even for one shot.I also believe that when shooting double rifles oil can can accuracy issues.

The first shot needs some kind of lube or you will guild the jacket material to the barrel. I believe that is the right term to use.

quote:

Originally posted by Pegleg:
The first shot needs some kind of lube or you will guild the jacket material to the barrel. I believe that is the right term to use.

I believe the oil from the first shot will pressure the bullet against the bore walls and foul more than it would with a Dry bore.Oil is liquid and it takes up space.dry is dry and there is less pressure in the bore.

George- This is a good question to ask a barrel maker. Shoot a dry barrel or one with some sort of lube. First shot recommendation.

quote:

Originally posted by Pegleg:
George- This is a good question to ask a barrel maker. Shoot a dry barrel or one with some sort of lube. First shot recommendation.

I don't think it is a question for a barrel maker.

I have had some luck using Hoppes Elite and a dry patch just before firing the first shot. Seems to make the first shot from a clean barrel go to the same point of impact as the last shot fired before cleaning.

OCD, OCD, OCD, RUN FOR YOUR LIVES!!