quote:

Originally posted by tradewinds:
Use wipe out and throw the brushes away.

quote:

Originally posted by tradewinds:
I have a HS Precision 300 RUM since 1999 and have never used a Brush, just wipe out and now sometimes combine Accelerator and the Patch Out, and when done shoot some Aut break Cleaner down the Barrel. It is the most accurate rifle i own. Also use just Wipe Out on all Doubles, But if you feel you need to Brush go ahead.

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I guarantee that if you look at the bore with a good borescope when you think it is clean, it will be full of carbon.

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Originally posted by rcamuglia:
I used to clean like tradewinds; wipe out and no brushes.

I took a rifle to my gunsmith for some work and he wanted to scope the bore. As he did, he asked when the last time I cleaned was. I told him that the bore was as clean as it can get. He showed me how much carbon was in the grooves and we proceeded to JB the bore til it was shiny.

Good luck.

quote:

Originally posted by tradewinds:
Again doubt it, but i am glad your bore is shinny! I have a friend that for some reason has to clean his bore like an operating room. Funny how he always has to fire some fouling shots so the gun will shoot good.

quote:

Originally posted by Wink:
With the KG group of solvents a nylon brush is sufficient, even preferred.

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John Brewer, 2004 U.S. F-Class Champion:

When doing a thorough bore-cleaning, I go after the carbon first, then the copper."

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Chris Dichter, Owner, Pac-Nor Barreling:

I believe in using bronze brushes. A nylon brush may be good for your teeth but it won't do the job on a rifle barrel, particularly in the throat area where carbon and the initial fouling forms. That can be a real problematic area to clean, with tooling marks that grab fouling.

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Joe Entrekin, 2003 Score Shooter of Year (2004 Runner-Up):

My cleaning procedure is as follows. I start with two patches soaked with Shooters Choice. Then I follow with one patch saturated with JB (the original brown formula), which I short-stroke the full length of the barrel. Next comes a dry patch to push most of the JB out, followed by two wet patches. The final step is two dry patches to get the solvent out. I've shown this cleaning regimen to "Humble Henry" Rivers and he does pretty much the same thing, as do David Apple and Dean Breeden, though they may use a different solvent. Dean was the top score shooter in the country last year, winning a bunch of matches and capturing IBS Shooter of the Year honors. Dean's match barrel now has over 8600 rounds through it. What does that tell you, when you see PPC guys wearing out barrels in 700 rounds or less?

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Dan Lilja, Lilja Precision Rifle Barrels:

"I think frequent cleaning with bronze brushes is OK. In my experience you'll get more barrel life cleaning frequently than if you go long intervals between cleanings."

I know some people avoid using bronze brushes. In my view it is OK to use a bronze brush, and to run it past the muzzle. I also don't see a problem with reversing the bronze brush and running it back through the bore. I don't recommend nylon brushes. I don't think they work any better than a patch. Keep the brush damp with a good solvent. I like Butch's Bore Shine.

How often should one clean a barrel? If you brush correctly, I don't think cleaning with a bronze brush will shorten the life of a barrel. In fact, I think that frequent cleaning will help a barrel maintain its accuracy longer.

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Tim North, 2003 NBRSA 1000-Yard Champion, President of Broughton Rifle Barrels:

I also like to remove powder/carbon fouling first, then remove any copper fouling that remains. This way you present clean metal to the copper solvent, so it works better with less brushing

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Clay Spencer, Spencer Rifle Barrels:

"I've never encountered a barrel that doesn't need to be brushed. A barrel will perform best if it is very clean. You cannot clean the gun properly without a brush and it needs to be bronze."

I strongly believe that benchrest barrels perform best when they are super-clean. And to get a barrel clean enough you must use a phosphor bronze brush. You can't clean the corners of the lands and grooves adequately with just patches.

JB bore paste, if you use it properly, will never hurt the barrel. I know that Tony Boyer has used lots of JB, and he cleans after every Aggregate. He uses JB on a brush, scrubbing back and forth in the back half of the barrel. When using JB like that, a nylon brush is appropriate. And when you're finished you need to wet patch with a solvent to get all the JB out

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Michelle Sutton, Co-Owner, Hart Rifle Barrels:

The procedure we recommend is to use a wetted bronze or brass brush, and draw it back and forth through the barrel four to six times, then re-wet the brush, and repeat five to six times. When brushing, send the brush out past the muzzle and then pull it back through gently, allowing the bristles to re-orient to the new direction. We've been in business 54 years and we believe that bronze brushes will not damage your crown.

We believe that frequent cleaning promotes barrel life. If you don't clean often enough, tight spots can form and you will start losing accuracy. Fire-checking will increase because you've got more build-up in the throat, and the inside of the barrel will become rougher, with more carbon. Ultimately you can shorten the barrel life if you don't clean often enough

quote:

Originally posted by DuggaBoye:

quote:

Originally posted by Wink:
With the KG group of solvents a nylon brush is sufficient, even preferred.

Ditto.

Attack the carbon 1st.

Then go for the copper/brass/ lead.

In a truly fouled barrel usually hit the carbon remover again at this point,

and somtimes the copper remover,

then oil and put away.

I own and use a borescope routinely.

Have not had to use JB's and the like in a long time.

quote:

Originally posted by DuggaBoye:
Have been out of town.

This video from Gradient Lens is quite helpful as to what to expect to see:

(Note: The music is a bit annoying you may wish to view with the volume off.)

http://gradientlens.com/precisionshooting.asp

as are the pictures in these two links:

(Note: I have not used the carbon remover in the first article below, however the pictures in this first article are helpful as to borescope viewing.)

http://www.slip2000.com/art-precshooting.html

http://www.6mmbr.com/hawkeyeborescope.html