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Have used Wipe Out and found it to be an excellent copper remover, but it seems to leave behind a lot of carbon. After cleaning a barrel a few times with WO then cleaning with Hoppes and a brass brush patch after patch of black (I assume carbon) come out. It seems like the WO hardens the carbon fouling. Has anyone else noticed this? | ||
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After patching out till the patches come out clean. I find if I switch to a different bore cleaning chemical the patches immediately come out black again. I patch out till the patches come out clean, again if I switch solvents the patchs are back to black again. I don't know why. I'm just reporting on what I see happen. I don't know if this is carbon making the patches black or a chemical reaction occurring between the two solvents staining the patch. Wipe Out is not available here, but I use other brands of foaming solvent they are Outers and Gunslick its the same stuff marketed under two different labels. | |||
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Attack the carbon first with one of the recommended solvets in this article, then use the WipeOut. I use Hoppe's Elite Cleaner, it works very well and can be found just about anywhere. http://www.6mmbr.com/borecleaning.html | |||
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I have been using wipe out for over a year now and very happy with it. No more brushes and scrubbing.....once the blue patches stop, then I get a few more black ones and then no more then I know its time to stop. I also dont oil the bore as recommended by wipe out! So far so good! | |||
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For whatever reason I've never had the problem you describe with Wipe Out or Patch Out. I start by using Wipe Out Accelerator and then putting in Wipe Out or Patch Out until the patches no longer come out with any blue on them. The final bit of cleaning is done with Prolix and the barrel is not oiled. There is a product called Carb Out made by the makers of Wipe Out that is supposed to remove carbon. I've used it but, to be honest, I haven't thought it did anything Prolix wouldn't do. | |||
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I hate to burst some of you guy's bubbles.................. I was cleaning just like you; Wipe out, Accellerator until no copper was left. I thought I was done too. I took a rifle I had been shooting for some time for target matches to my gunsmith for some work. He wanted to take a good look at the barrel with a scope before we proceeded to make sure it was worth it. He looked at the bore and asked me when the last time I cleaned. I told him it was clean. He said it was really carbon fouled and had me take a look; it was. He recommends JB paste every 200 rounds, Wipe out first to attack the copper, finish with Shooter's Choice wet patches and wet bronze brushing. I did it and looked at the bore when I was done. It took 2 treatments of this to get the carbon out. It sparkles now. I took my coyote rifle; a .243wssm. I have only used Wipe out and patches. I did the JB and Shooter's Choice with the bronze brush treatment till I thought it was clean; one treatment. I took it over to his shop and he let me use the scope to look at the condition of the bore. It was pretty good but will take another treatment to get it all out. I may invest in a bore scope. Until you have one, you have no ideas what's going on in there.......................... | |||
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How many shots did it take to get it back shooting well? I was also duped by the notion of needing to get the barrels squeaky clean and free of copper. I found that it took anywhere from 5 to 20 shots to get them back in their groove. I use Slip2000 or any of the other carbon removers, then 50/50 WipeOut Accelerator/PatchOut on a boremop followed by a couple of dry patches. This routine gets the barrels plenty clean. One or maybe two foulers and they are back shooting good. Blued barrels get a final patch with Lockease and the first shot out of a cold barrel is always right on the mark. | |||
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It actually shoots very well from the squeeky clean stage with just a couple of foulers. I did see a tightening of groups after the carbon was removed. | |||
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