I posted this as an answer in another thread but then thought it might be of more interest over here.

You are cleaning at the range. After you swab the last of the copper cleaner out, you run a patch soaked in brake cleaner through the bore. After it evaporates, do you go back to shooting or do you oil the bore lightly before starting to shoot.

Please explain your reasons for doing it the way you do.

Show all of your work, circle your answer, and there will be extra points for neatness and answers that agree with me.

I don't use brake cleaner.

I don't use oil before shooting.

I don't clean the bore after the last range sesion before hunting season unless I get rained on.

It's just the way I am.

I just go back to shooting.

I've found that doing it you way, my fouling shot may not be a flyer. If I apply oil it will jump an inch or two fm my standard point of impact.

The last thing I put in my barrels is Prolix.

Then I dry out the chamber and barrel.

My first shot goes into the same place as the next shots.

What is prolix?

quote:

Originally posted by N E 450 No2:
The last thing I put in my barrels is Prolix.

Then I dry out the chamber and barrel.

My first shot goes into the same place as the next shots.

Thanks for the tip on Prolix as I have a major problem with first or even second or third shot out until the barrel is fouled in some of my rifles.. Funny thing I never heard of Prolix before so I just did a search and recognized their logo from some web-surfing I did last night.. Another funny thing I just remembered were I saw their logo as I finished typing the last sentence.. Blaser-Buds..
The mind can be a wonderful thing..
Sometimes..

any oil in the bore prior to shooting increases the risk of bulging the bbl. never shoot an oiled bbl.

You guys give Prolix a try.

If I am doing a lot of shooting through a particular rifle, I will "punch out" the barrel every 30 to 50 rounds, maybe every 20 on a Magnum.

By punch out I put some Prolix on a brush, do 5 strokes, reapply more Prolix, brush 5 or 10 strokes, then put a wet patch or two down the barrel, clean out the chamber, then dry out the chamber and barrel.

So far on all the barrels I have used it on the first shot out does not go wild.

Same goes if I have used another solvent, as long as I finish up with Prolix, the barrel is good to go.

It is a good lube, dust does not seem to stick to it.

I use a lot of their Xtra T Lube. It is a thicker, very light "grease" form of Prolix.

Prolix contains no petroleum products.

quote:

Originally posted by wasbeeman:
You are cleaning at the range. After you swab the last of the copper cleaner out, you run a patch soaked in brake cleaner through the bore. After it evaporates, do you go back to shooting or do you oil the bore lightly before starting to shoot. ...

After the Barel Cleaning, I do not put Brake Cleaner into the Barrel. But I do use it to spray the Brush clean. If a person does not spray a Brass Brush clean, the Bristles will disolve very quickly with most Bore Cleaners.

Then I Lube the Bore, using a snug fitting Paper Patch, with Moly Grease, R.I.G, or a light oil, depending on the particular firearm. The Lubing is followed immediately with a couple of clean Paper Patches to remove any excess Lube.

That leaves the Bore Lightly Lubed which protects it from moisture. It is also the way I Hunt with my rifles, so I want my practice shots to be from as similar a Bore Condition to the Hunting as possible.

A Fouled Bore is never the same from shot-to-shot. So, I'm also interested in seeing that Shot #2 is extremely close to Shot #1. Somewhat the same for Shot #3, but I've never taken a third shot at Game, so it is pretty much irrelevant. Don't care about any additional shots because if I've not Killed it with three shots, something is bad wrong and needs to be addressed.

Take a piece of steel and clean it totally clean. Then take a piece of copper stock and strike the steel a glancing blow.

Then put a light coat of oil on the steel and do it again.

Which test leaves the most copper on the steel?

Washbeeman-----Get everything out with Brake Cleaner then run a wet patch of Butches through then a dry patch then shoot.

Hoss, as far as shooting was concerned, wouldn't that be the same as a lightly oiled bore??
My point is that I think a dry barrel picks up copper fster than a lightly oiled one. I understand that after the first or second shot, the oil is burned but then you have a layer of carbon in the barrel.

What Hot Core said, exceptI use Shooter's choice MC#7 and Kroil in a 50/50 mix to finish my cleaning routine. That leaves a tiny bit of oil in the barrel.

Wasbeeman----yes in a way however, Butches and I do run a dry patch to get most of it out. Do not like to shoot on a bore that has just had BC put down it but with the way I do mine and that is with almost 100% Krieger and few Hart tubes they seem to like it and POI change is almost nil. The speed is just a little faster but with the BC bore the POI is off a little more so I quit doing that years ago.

That being said I have no idea what will happen with a factory tube because I have not done the analysis. The few factory rifles I use are cleaned and left oil soaked then before I shoot run a dry patch down them and call it good.

You're at the range shooting and want to give the bore a light clean before shooting again.

Just use your favorite powder/copper solvent.

Dry patch when your done with the solvent.

No need to run an oil patch down the bore, the solvents contain oils in their formulas.

Also theirs no way one or two dry patches are going to remove the molecules of oil trapped in the micro scratches in the bore steel.

Your next shot will be sliding on a very thin amount of oil. This oil will be cooked to carbon after the first shot and thats a good reason your solvent should be able to remove carbon too.