I have read it on one of the forums that it can cause rusting of the bore. Is there any truth to that? Any one with first hand experience, pro or con?

I apply Wipe Out Accelerator and then Wipe Out in multiple barrels and have NEVER had a problem with rust in either blue or stainless steel barrels even when I've left them sit for several days. I've never left the Accelerator in the barrel by itself though; I've always followed the Accelerator in short order with the Wipe Out.

quote:

Originally posted by Grumulkin:
I apply Wipe Out Accelerator and then Wipe Out in multiple barrels and have NEVER had a problem with rust in either blue or stainless steel barrels even when I've left them sit for several days. I've never left the Accelerator in the barrel by itself though; I've always followed the Accelerator in short order with the Wipe Out.

Same here!

I'm in full agreement with the others. I run a patch of Accelerator through the barrel, then spray in Wipe-Out. I leave it in overnight and patch it out the next day. Barrel is clean, and have never had any barrel rust in the 5 years I have used Wipe-Out.

I have been using straight Wipe-Out for about two years now and find it to be great stuff..
I haven't used Accelerator however and am wondering if it helps the cleaning process when leaving Wipe Out in the barrel over night? I would think you wouldn't need Accellerator for over night cleaning, but what do I know..
Thanks

I have used 3 cans of wipe out all with the accelerater.It does a good job but Gunslick foaming bore cleaner in my opinion works better and in Australia is cheaper.

Cheers Neale.

I found the gunslick to work better as well.

Can you leave the Gunslick cleaner in the barrel overnight?

I do all the time.
No worries.

I just tried a can of the Gunslick as well. It seems to work like the Wipe Out.

I have cleaned my guns with it. No ill affect, so far. Didn't notice faster or better action though.

I 've had rust issues on my SS Howa while i was using the two Wipeout products mentioned...

Wipeout advise that their products also prevent corrosion, so there is no need to oil, but at least for me, that did not work..

I still use and like the Wipeout products, but I run a couple of dry patches through the bore afterwards and then an oily patch...

This seems to hold the rust at bay...

Obviously there are a variety of relative humidities reporting here.

If you live where there is no moisture in the air I would not expect much rust.

I've been using Wipeout for about 6yrs or so, guns are cleaned in the basement where humidity is 55-60% with the help of a dehumidifier, I always foam the bores and leave overnight, finish up the next day, a time or two I forgot and left it in for 2-3 days, have never had a hint of rust.

I've been using ALL the Wipe-out products since the first can hit the market...WAY back...on at least a hundred weapons...pistols, rifles, shotguns(Patch-out) and NEVER had ANY rust problems...read the small print, Wipe-out removes rust from the interior and exterior.

I've left the foam in the bore for 3-4 days...again read the fine print or call...chemically speaking the longer it's in contact with the copper the more the chemical reaction has a chance to work and more gunk gets removed...BUT

KEEP IT OFF THE FINISH...once the chemical conversion starts happening the copper conversion product will TOTALLY chew up lacquer, oil etc finishes and will discolor some types of synthetic stocks.

I use TM and BBS for the most part, Patch-out for those rifles with rougher bores and that copper coat quicker and heavier and Wipe-out and the accelerator at the end of the season until squeaky clean just before putting away...PLUS OIL...TM, Butches, Snake-oil, etc.

Smells almost as good as old Hoppe's No 9.

Luck

I have become a wipe out fan as well. I finish with a dry patch and leave the bore as is w/out any oil. No sign of rust and its been a few years now!

I am not a wipe out fan. I have evidence in at least 4 barrels that it does not remove copper as advertised--medium to heavy copper was NOT cleaned in multiple 24 hour period cleanings in these barrels--this with before and after examinations with a borescope. I even left it in one barrel for 3 days. In no case was there any rust in any barrel--plenty of copper still--and no indication on a patch that there was-- but no rust--the borescope does not lie--and these days they are cheap enough that no serious shooter need be without one.

quote:

Originally posted by amamnn:
I am not a wipe out fan. I have evidence in at least 4 barrels that it does not remove copper as advertised--medium to heavy copper was NOT cleaned in multiple 24 hour period cleanings in these barrels--this with before and after examinations with a borescope. I even left it in one barrel for 3 days. In no case was there any rust in any barrel--plenty of copper still--and no indication on a patch that there was-- but no rust--the borescope does not lie--and these days they are cheap enough that no serious shooter need be without one.

I am a fan of Wipe Out, so much so I import and distrubute it in Australia as I was sick of using Sweets 7.62 and all the associated problems.

The foam does need "forthing up" a bit after it has turned to a blue liquid in the barrel. It also helps in re-coating all the barrel and not just where it collects at the lowest point.

BTW - Wipe out is now sold in a Liquid form called PATCH OUT and works just as well but is easier to use.

Re Accelerator, it works well, especially if you want to speed up the process.

Never had a problem with rust and I have used it on guns worth mega dollars including those with soft steel.

Just be aware that WIPE OUT / PATCH OUT really does remove all oils from the barrel - you can tell by how "grabby" a cloth patch is as you push it down. So it is a must to oil / lubricate the barrel afterwards. I would NOT say that WIPE OUT oils / lubricates.

Hope that helps.

OK I was wrong--- I just got back from shooting an AR-15 that I had not shot since trying to clean it with wipe out a few months ago. Apparently I did not get all of that CR*P out of the corners of the flash hider. There was !RUST! in there!!In a parkerized hider!! So, I now have to agree with those who say it will rust a gun. In my opinion and from the evidence of the borescope and several barrels, not only does this stuff NOT clean quickly and efficiently; it does NOT remove medium to heavy copper fouling; it can actually be harmful. I just threw the remains of mine in the trash.

I don't use Sweet's. I do use Boretech Eliminator and/or Shooter's choice Aqua Clean. followed by Shooter's Choice MC#7 and Kroil for lightly fouled barrels. To get the heaviers stuff out right now and not 24 hours lated I still use JB. My only gripe with Eliminator is that I get a lot of false trace with it when using brass jags and bronze brushes. That's not really much of a problem when you can actually see in the bore using a scope.

quote:

Originally posted by amamnn:
OK I was wrong--- I just got back from shooting an AR-15 that I had not shot since trying to clean it with wipe out a few months ago. Apparently I did not get all of that CR*P out of the corners of the flash hider. There was !RUST! in there!!In a parkerized hider!! So, I now have to agree with those who say it will rust a gun. In my opinion and from the evidence of the borescope and several barrels, not only does this stuff NOT clean quickly and efficiently; it does NOT remove medium to heavy copper fouling; it can actually be harmful. I just threw the remains of mine in the trash.

I don't use Sweet's. I do use Boretech Eliminator and/or Shooter's choice Aqua Clean. followed by Shooter's Choice MC#7 and Kroil for lightly fouled barrels. To get the heaviers stuff out right now and not 24 hours lated I still use JB. My only gripe with Eliminator is that I get a lot of false trace with it when using brass jags and bronze brushes. That's not really much of a problem when you can actually see in the bore using a scope.

amann

Did you oil the gun after cleaning it ?

It's not the WIPE OUT that causes the Rust, it's the fact that the metal is unprotected
because it cleans off all the oils from the steel.

I have used it on the inside of a Rusty, cruddy silencers from M4's that came back from
the Sand pit and it stripped all the copper and lifted all the crud out to the extent
of the bare metal. If we had left the silencer as it was, it would have rusted.

I live in the North American rain forest-- I am hyper sensitive to humidity and I agree with Niel Young on only one thing---rust never sleeps. All my guns are triple shielded from moisture. If you actually READ my last post you will see that the WO was somewhat hidden from view and not removed. I'll not comment about selective reading as a symptom of selective hearing and vice versa. The only way the WO was allowed to corrode the nooks and crannies was that it was applied after my regular cleaning routine which includes wiping the flash hider with Q-tips. My cleaning kit stays in my van because I always clean at the range--ALWAYS now definitely since I have scoped all my barrels and know what works and what does not.

The rifle was stored in a temperature and humidity controlled gun safe with 2 other rifles that were only co-incidentally subjects of the same wipe out trial. The only difference was that the AR in question was the only one with a flash hider that was able to hide some chemical in the edges. 2 of the 3 guns were stored the same length of time after cleaning with WO one was shot for the first time 2 weeks ago. Otherwise there was no difference in the cleaning or storage of the guns. I oil NO guns after cleaning with Shooter's choice and Kroil--or you can say I oil all my guns before storage using a thin coat of Kroil and SC-MC#7 left in the barrel at the range after firing, as I never patch quite dry after using that.


Since we are relentlessly pursuing the subject I will also mention that I found WO to be bad for old bluing. I tried it on an old Mauser K98 that it failed to remove the copper from-- to be fair you needed a United Mine Worker's Union card to clean that gun. But it did take off the bluing around the muzzle which would have been a real problem had that been a collectible rifle. Apparently this chemical reaction that WO generates will continue in nooks and crannies and react with the steel. Also to be fair, I seem to remember a warning about using WO on older guns as it could harm the bluing--if it was printed on the can I could not say now-- I am not going to dig through the garbage to see.

I am ridiculously anal about cleaning my rifles, according to my non-BR shooting friends and just about average according to my other BR shooting friends. Whenever someone tells me that thus and such works or does not work I am the irritating guy who has to try it and see. I had no intentions of trying WO or any other wonder cleaner--nor did I have any inclination to buy a boresope before my kids--who think they know everything and do not~~~~~~~some stuff--but not everything~~~~ started ragging me about all the time I spend cleaning my guns when there are all these new wonder cleaners around. I countered with the assertion that they had never learned the value of WORK-elbow grease-sadly true--and they accused my of being stuck in the 60's which is NOT true-- I gave up on Hoppe's #9 except as a cologne years ago. They keep buying me cleaners to try--especially after I got the borescope--and I keep giving them--and others--I guess-- the bad news--there ain't no free lunch--if you want a CLEAN rifle--you do the work. It does not hurt you at all it is over quickly and you have better groups. I sell nothing. I could care less whose cleaner works best--when a miracle cleaner becomes available I will buy it and I will tell anyone who will listen how the world is a better place--until that happens--see above.

Have you tried Outer's Foul Out III electro-chemical bore cleaner? I have tried all kinds of chemical concoctions with less than satisfactory result. Foul Out III seems to be the best solution for my problem.

You have to be carefull with ANY bore cleaning product. Each will do good and bad things to bores and finishes.

I have an Outers FoulOut II, I left it working in the bore of a R#1 25-06 and ended up with a destroyed bore. Part of that was my fault, it happened quite a long time ago when it first came out so I can't totally blame the FoulOut, but it just sits in the junk drawer, I won't use it again. Maybe the FoulOut 3 is better.

500 is correct about how well WO and PO clean and EVERYONE needs to be cognizant of the fact the it is almost impossible to get combustion/copper products out of the micro pores in a barrel once the first round has been fired.

I have cleaned many military rifles with WO so there is a clean final patch then come back a month later, use WO overnight and get a blue/purple patch. The same for most of my hi-velocity, large cased, small cal fireballs.


As been said before...in a military rifle there are layers and layers of crud over a very long period of time...how could you expect to get it clean after one or two trues. You have to understand the full process. I have 2 6.5x55 Swedes and one 1891 Argentine I am cleaning right now. All three have had 3 overnighters in the past week, plus several overnighers since I first acquired them at different times starting 15 years ago. They all shoot roughtly 2" 100 yd groups open sights with my poor eyes off the bench...after cleaning the bores look bright and shiney but I haven't a borescope so I can't get right down and see just what the bores look like. Some day I might get a totally clean bore, but at 2" accuracy and with a OEM military rifle, who cares, it will outlast me and still be shooting those 2" groups when my grandson is an old man.


If you get too anal all you do is nail one foot to the floor and then run in circles. Everyone needs to get a grip over all this hoohaa over bore cleaners. Everyone is right and wrong at the same time but would rather rant and rave rather than look at it from a OBJECTIVE rather than SUBJECTIVE view.

I have a shelf full of EVERY gun cleaning product that has hit the market for the past 30 odd years. They ALL do a certain level of cleaning and fullfill their individual advertizing, but NONE of them do a perfect job.

Sweet's was one of the first early ones...it is full of ammonia and you can do a credible job of cleaning if you buy a bottle of Strongers clothes cleaning ammonia...but it smells totally nasty...I used to work in the reproduction industry...no not that one, the other one, reproducing paper copies...we used ammonia in the blueline development process...I get flashbacks everytime I smell the stuff.

I go through the self and toss things periodically as newer products appear and do a better job than the old stuff.

Take a look at Sinclair Int catalog...they handle all the newer and better products. I have used 90% of the listed cleaning products with very good success.

Luck

Interesting re the bluing.

One of the reasons I went to Wipe Out (and now Patch out) was I was cleaning
old English guns (Shotguns, Double Rifles) and wanted something less corrosive
on the soft steel than Sweets.

I (and others) did a number of tests on "not so expensive" Double Rifle's to make sure that it didn't remove the bluing OR, more importantly, affect the solder of the ribs
which of course would take the $ value of the gun to close to zero if that happened.


Re making sure Wipe Out is removed, yes, you really do need to make sure it is removed from all the nooks and crannies - and oil it well afterwards. I use liberal amounts of Hoppe's No 9 to get it out of the bores etc (especially those with pits / pitting in them).

Anyway, all good info and good discussion.


Finally, having re read Foobar's post, as he says "You have to be carefull with ANY bore cleaning product. Each will do good and bad things to bores and finishes."

Carrying on from this, I find it is not a bad idea every so often to use something different for getting carbon / copper out. Being chemicals, just a change can sometimes get that last bit out.

Also, guns sweat after shooting so re cleaning after 2 days helps as well even though the gun may have appeared clean on the first clean.

.
.

amamnn

Re living in a bad area for Humidity etc, have you tried something like VP90 by Napier.

It uses Vapour Phase technology. It's not the only one out there but Napier make good stuff.

Type it into Google and it should come up.

I throw one in the bottom of my safe just for that added protection.

I've never had any problems with WO or PO on bluing on any of the modern or military weapons I have cleaned...BUT...I wipe any off immediately if it gets on bluing OR stock.

I cover the stock under the bore guide when using ANY cleaning product and if it is an aerosol I usually strip the gun, put the stock in a safe place and do the spraying outside, WITH RUBBER GLOVES. You should use a respirator with some of the nastier stuff like QuickSilver.

What IS the causitive agent is the chemical reaction products...the WO that has reacted with the copper/krap and has chemically changed into a different reactant...the blue/purple garbage...that stuff is highly reactive with bluing and gunstocks.

Go to the WO websight or call/email the maker...all that information is in the fineprint.

The fact that ANY copper reducing agent is reactive AND is dangerous to bluing/stocks seems to be lost on most people...or they fail to read what's printed on the can or on the products website.

And most seem to forget or don't know that bluing is nothing but RUST.

Luck

I also use Patch Out and Accelerator. Great products. close second to Eliminator.

I've often wondered why if they mix in the barrel you can't simply apply both to the patch and pass them down the barrel together.

Any thoughts on that? I probably need to mail the manufacturers to ask.

Great info. I just got my first bottles of Patch out & Accelerator (thanks Nigel! - my friend just delivered them).

I'll try them out & let you know thoughts.

quote:

Originally posted by Nakihunter:
Great info. I just got my first bottles of Patch out & Accelerator (thanks Nigel! - my friend just delivered them).

I'll try them out & let you know thoughts.

You were lucky you got them - she called like 2 hours before she was leaving,
we had a power black out at the time but I called here back on my mobile.

Anyway, PM me if needed.

.

I used wipe out wed and scoped it on thursday and it shot 1/2 inch. Oh that was a spotting scope!

I tired it for the first time....on 4 rifles.

The Accelerator first and then the Patch out. I left them all overnight. My Tikka LSA 55 has a rough barrel because I left Sweets in it and this one cleaned out very quickly. May be because I have not used it much in the last few years.

The Mannlicher Schoenauer 6.5 has a stuffed barrel and that is still soaking on the second round.

The Sako 280 AI is also soaking for the second time & I am surprised as the bore looks shiny & clean but the patch comes out real blue.

The Kimber 7mm08 is also soaking for the second time - just checking to see if it comes out clean or blue.

My feeling is that Butch's Boreshine works fine on new guns when used regularly.

Now to try the rifles on the range again.

Naki
I have found that in between using Wipe Out or Patch Out, clean the bore with a powder solvent as well (like Hoppe's No 9).

Also, it can be worth giving the barrel with Patch Out a roughing up with a Plastic Brush.

.

It is day 6 now and the Sako 280 Ack imp and the Mannlicher Schoenauer 6.5 are still showing blue, black and flecks of gilding after soaking, brushing and patch out.

I have used Butch'e boreshine, shooters choice, Din Colling's own brew and patch out. I have not used accelerator today. The bores are both clean but the grooves are still crappy. I am surprised at the number of layers of the stuff has been depositing in the bores!

Do yourself a favour and buy a Foul Out III electo chemical bore cleaner. I went through the same process with my Sako AV 30-06 and then I wised up.

Naki


Then you should try cleaning a 100 year old DR with crappy bores.

I've taken a couple of weeks to get all the crud out of the pits
as after cleaning to what you think is clean, the steel sweats and'
excretes more.


Try heating up the outside of the barrel - either leave it in the sun or with boiling water - it opens up the steel. Then clean the hell out of it while it is hot - first with Powder solvent, then with Wipe Out.

.

Thanks Nigel. The Mannlicher is about 70 years old and an ex Greek military rifle that was used with cordite.

I was actually thinking of heating it with boiling water or even a hair drier, but blowing into the bore so that the carbon & copper would expand off the steel.

Many years ago I used to just scrub the bore with a very tight patch and Break free - this would get quite hot and the patch would come out with streaks of gilding metal stuck to it.