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homemade copper solvent
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Picture of 416Tanzan
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I need some help making some copper solvent in Tanzania.
Back in the US I have plenty of Barnes' product and like it very much.

However, airplanes and the TSA folk have ammonia-based liquids on a 'no-no' list. And while someone might be able to justify putting three-ounces in a suitcase, it may also be flat illegal (I don't know the exact law--don't quote me either way).

So how does one concoct some pungent copper cleaner home-brew out of grocery goods or hardware goods? Tanganyika Arms only carries a powder solvent with no ammonia. My rifles stay in Tanzania and can't go to the US for a scrub down.

Any help would be appreciated.


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"A well-rounded hunting battery might include:
500 AccRel Nyati, 416 Rigby or 416 Ruger, 375Ruger or 338WM, 308 or 270, 243, 223" --
Conserving creation, hunting the harvest.
 
Posts: 4253 | Registered: 10 June 2009Reply With Quote
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Picture of Rusty
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Just go buy this stuff KG-12

Water based no smell. Just follow up with oiled patch. Best stuff ever!


Rusty
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Posts: 9797 | Location: Missouri City, Texas | Registered: 21 June 2000Reply With Quote
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Go to :
http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm#Bore%20Cleaner

There is a section on copper removal....Hope this helps.
 
Posts: 44 | Location: Key Biscayne, Fl | Registered: 05 January 2005Reply With Quote
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Just take some J&B over there.


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Posts: 16134 | Location: Texas | Registered: 06 April 2002Reply With Quote
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Go to a ladies hair repair shop buy a couple-three ounces of their bleaching peroxide. Mix it with a double portion of a high grade light oil (Automatic Transmission
Fluid works good and is easy to find).

DON'T let ammonia sit in the bore more than maybe 5-8 minutes without wiping it down or repeating the treatment, when ammonia dries on steel bad things happen to the metal's surface.

When you finish cleaning, use several water wet patches to completly dissolve/remove the ammonia, dry the bore and oil it with straight ATF or other slow evaporating and non-gumming oil of your choice.
 
Posts: 1615 | Location: South Western North Carolina | Registered: 16 September 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by N E 450 No2:
Just take some J&B over there.


+1
 
Posts: 79 | Registered: 30 October 2010Reply With Quote
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Picture of 416Tanzan
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Thank you. But some questions arise.
Is J&B legal to carry on airplnaes? It gets copper out without ammonia (which is illegal to pack in luggage)?

I did mail some KB-12, which is water-based and non-ammonia. But good general recipes are good for followup over there.


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"A well-rounded hunting battery might include:
500 AccRel Nyati, 416 Rigby or 416 Ruger, 375Ruger or 338WM, 308 or 270, 243, 223" --
Conserving creation, hunting the harvest.
 
Posts: 4253 | Registered: 10 June 2009Reply With Quote
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quote:
Just take some J&B over there.

JB is diatomaceous earth in a light oil. It's the stuff that's the cleaner in toothpaste.

Make some up yourself, you can get diamtomaceous earth cheap from swimming pool supply companies, it's used in some water filters.
 
Posts: 1615 | Location: South Western North Carolina | Registered: 16 September 2005Reply With Quote
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I thought JB Bore paste was an Oatmeal based compound? Thta's what it said on the original containers.
 
Posts: 554 | Location: CT | Registered: 17 May 2008Reply With Quote
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Just get to a store and buy any liquid detergent containing ammonia. They should have that in Tanzania. Even ammonia/water in a 1-2% solution will do.
Then add two tablespoons of liquid soap (any dish wash soap will do the trick) in 500cc of the ammonia solution. You have now the same thing as the Barnes stuff. The soap is just to make the surface tension lower.

Just remember to use oil after using ammonia!



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Posts: 70 | Location: Norway | Registered: 12 January 2006Reply With Quote
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Jim C,
Where did you here that? I put a piece of barrel in a container of ammonia several years ago. No damage yet.
Butch
 
Posts: 8964 | Location: Poetry, Texas | Registered: 28 November 2004Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by butchlambert:
Jim C,
Where did you here that? I put a piece of barrel in a container of ammonia several years ago. No damage yet.
Butch


That's because you will need oxygen to get the damage. Take the barrel out of the ammonia, and it will start to get corrosion fast. I have worked at a plant using ammonia as a coolant. The pipelines was made of plain steel. The gaskets and pipe flanges was made of lead. But, get oxygen in the system, and the sh** will hit the fan.



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Posts: 70 | Location: Norway | Registered: 12 January 2006Reply With Quote
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look here

http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm#Copper


Mike

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Never under estimate the internet community's ability to reply to your post with their personal rant about their tangentially related, single occurrence issue.




What I have learned on AR, since 2001:
1. The proper answer to: Where is the best place in town to get a steak dinner? is…You should go to Mel's Diner and get the fried chicken.
2. Big game animals can tell the difference between .015 of an inch in diameter, 15 grains of bullet weight, and 150 fps.
3. There is a difference in the performance of two identical projectiles launched at the same velocity if they came from different cartridges.
4. While a double rifle is the perfect DGR, every 375HH bolt gun needs to be modified to carry at least 5 down.
5. While a floor plate and detachable box magazine both use a mechanical latch, only the floor plate latch is reliable. Disregard the fact that every modern military rifle uses a detachable box magazine.
6. The Remington 700 is unreliable regardless of the fact it is the basis of the USMC M40 sniper rifle for 40+ years with no changes to the receiver or extractor and is the choice of more military and law enforcement sniper units than any other rifle.
7. PF actions are not suitable for a DGR and it is irrelevant that the M1, M14, M16, & AK47 which were designed for hunting men that can shoot back are all PF actions.
8. 95 deg F in Africa is different than 95 deg F in TX or CA and that is why you must worry about ammunition temperature in Africa (even though most safaris take place in winter) but not in TX or in CA.
9. The size of a ding in a gun's finish doesn't matter, what matters is whether it’s a safe ding or not.
10. 1 in a row is a trend, 2 in a row is statistically significant, and 3 in a row is an irrefutable fact.
11. Never buy a WSM or RCM cartridge for a safari rifle or your go to rifle in the USA because if they lose your ammo you can't find replacement ammo but don't worry 280 Rem, 338-06, 35 Whelen, and all Weatherby cartridges abound in Africa and back country stores.
12. A well hit animal can run 75 yds. in the open and suddenly drop with no initial blood trail, but the one I shot from 200 yds. away that ran 10 yds. and disappeared into a thicket and was not found was lost because the bullet penciled thru. I am 100% certain of this even though I have no physical evidence.
13. A 300 Win Mag is a 500 yard elk cartridge but a 308 Win is not a 300 yard elk cartridge even though the same bullet is travelling at the same velocity at those respective distances.
 
Posts: 10169 | Location: Loving retirement in Boise, ID | Registered: 16 December 2003Reply With Quote
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350 Remington Magnum,
I maintenanced Large reciprocating compressors in a huge refrigerating warehouse almost 40 years ago. We used ammonia for refrigerant. We used the sores on our hand to find the leaks. I doubt that anybody would leave it in their barrel for extended time. 30 minutes is safe.
Butch
 
Posts: 8964 | Location: Poetry, Texas | Registered: 28 November 2004Reply With Quote
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You can put J&B in your checked baggage no problem.


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Posts: 16134 | Location: Texas | Registered: 06 April 2002Reply With Quote
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I've read that plain oven cleaner (the foaming stuff) will do a great job on copper fouling. It is supposed to contain the same ingredients as regular foaming bore cleaners (please don't ask me what this is).
The only problem is how to get it into the barrel without creating a complete mess.
One suggestion was to use a differnt spray head with an extended tube.
Haven't done it myself; but in times of need I would give it a try.
 
Posts: 211 | Registered: 10 January 2006Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by McFox:
The only problem is how to get it into the barrel without creating a complete mess.


This is a solution I came up with for the maker of Wipe Out foam bore cleaner.
They suggested putting it in from the muzzle end, I suggested SEALING the chamber and putting it in the chamber end.

Plastic is clear flexi tube available anywhere. I use 3 sizes. Up to 308 bore size, up to 375 bore size and over 375 bore size.

I SHARPEN the end of the plastic tube with a pencil sharpener which then allows the plastic tube to SEAL the chamber at the shoulder in the chamber.


Of course, they have now gone to a liquid form of Wipe Out called Patch Out that works as well if not better (it's stronger).

Hope that helps.



Can anyone post a photo for me ? Send me an email address via PM.


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Posts: 3191 | Location: Victoria, Australia | Registered: 01 March 2007Reply With Quote
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Picture of Nakihunter
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I had thought of using the oven cleaner as it is very good in removing baked on carbon! But the ammonia stings my hands if i forget to use gloves. There is also the issue of cleaning the rifle and neutralizing the ammonia.


"When the wind stops....start rowing. When the wind starts, get the sail up quick."
 
Posts: 11400 | Location: New Zealand | Registered: 02 July 2008Reply With Quote
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Barrett's Heavy Bore Cleaner works. It's not particularly fast acting but it doesn't contain any ammonia. they say you can drink the stuff, don't know if I would try that but it will remove all of the copper residue in the bore. And ditto on the JB's bore polish. It will also help keep the bore cleaner as well as help remove the copper.
 
Posts: 4214 | Location: Southern Colorado | Registered: 09 October 2011Reply With Quote
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Make up a funnel and plastic tube that will fit down into the chamber and use boiling water to soften the copper then push it out with a dry patch.
 
Posts: 110 | Location: sydney australia | Registered: 22 May 2005Reply With Quote
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Picture of FOOBAR
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WHY would you use ANY ammonia based products when there are so many excellent copper cleaning products on the market without that evil stuff??

I worked in a blueprint shop with 55 gal bbls of ammonia next to the machines and little ventation..you get used to the smell until you had to change barrels, then the shop got vacated and the blowers turnrd on for an hour or so.

I use non ammonia products now like patch out/wipe out with much higher success in getting the copper out.

Luck
 
Posts: 1338 | Registered: 19 January 2006Reply With Quote
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