I was wondering what all of you use, if you use wipeout, to plug the breech?

I've been told that it is best to plug the breech, spray wipeout in the muzzle til full, leave upright over night so WO contacts all bore surface.

WO themselves say it is best to leave bbl horizontal, but I like the thought of muzzle up and 24 hours for saturation.

All of the foaming cleaners tend to settle after a few hours, they don't stay in a foam, but turn to liquid, bore up would leave all the liquid in the breech with much of the bore not having been exposed to the cleaner long.

I do a 2 step cleaning, with the rifle horizontal laying on it's side, muzzle slightly down to keep the cleaner from running into the action.

After about ½ the cleaning cycle, turn it on the other side.

My thoughts on doing it this way is the reason a second cleaing cycle is needed for heavier fouling, is the cleaner settles and doesn't treat the upper part of the bore, turning it once puts the cleaner on bore sides of the bore for a longer period.

Since I started doing this, one overnight always works, even with X-bullets fouling.

Tim

Hey Doc

Let's see if I can describe a simple procedure without making it sound complicated.

I have a looong shanked screwdriver with one of those plastic fluted handles. I take 3 large patches ( 2 1/4" ) and poke them in the breech on the end of the screwdriver partway so the patches are above the magazine. This is for quick deployment. I then set the screwdriver handle down on the top of the stock and it will stay there with the handle flutes kinda holding it in place.

I then insert the WO nozzle in the muzzle and give it a quick blast. Make sure not to aim the nozzle directly down the barrel since a new can of WO will shoot all the way through the barrel and make a mess in the breech. Just angle it down. Drop the can fast and put your finger over the muzzle. Lean over and watch for the white WO to show up in the chamber. Shove the patches with the screwdriver into the chamber and you have plugged it.

When you pull your finger off the muzzle a little will drip out. Have a rag handy and wipe it off and set it somewhere overnight with the muzzle at a slight downward angle and the rag under the muzzle. In about an hour turn the gun over.

A pair of tweezers will pluck the 3 patches out the next day and you can use them to clean the barrel. Usually by the third patch you are done.

I attach a section of tube about 4" long to the nozzle.This tube is the diametre of the bore.Insert inot the chamber and squirt until it comes out of the muzzle.Leave in place for a short while then remove and plug with one of those bell-shaped earplugs(I bought mine from Dillon).Leave the muzzle angled slightly down over a bucket to catch the runoff and to stop anything running back into the action and magazine.
If you wish to squirt from the muzzle , just insert earplug first and hold in place with the cleaning rod guide or your finger.
The first method works best.
rob

I agree, lay flat. Do not stand upright.

I also use the bell shaped orange earplugs. I buy mine at an industrial supply outfit. Close the bolt, and you get a good seal. HTH, Dutch.

I use an MTM Boreguide with a few rolled patches inserted in the front of the boreguide. Then I insert the boreguide into the chamber and squirt Wipeout into the front of the bore. This method prevents any wipeout from entering the chamber and keeps the solvent in the bore.

I use these:



However I doubt that they'd work if you stand the rifle up vertically. Wipe out turns to liquid in a few hours and it would seep around the swab. (I would think that the foam/liquid would settle a the bottom as well and not be as effective as it is when held close to horizontal)

They do keep the foam itself out of the breach when squirting it into the bore. I then keep a very slight incline towards the muzzle.

-Steve

I use a Sinclair bore guide with the rubber seals on the breech end and a "Splatter Box":

http://www.sinclairintl.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?catego...m=03-6000&type=store

On the muzzle end. I put it in a gun vise or cleaning cradle and spray in from the breech. The Splatter box catches all the overspray and patches no muss no fuss. I usually lay a paper towel under the bore guide to catch any rearward seepage......................DJ

quote:

Originally posted by djpaintles:
I use a Sinclair bore guide with the rubber seals on the breech end and a "Splatter Box":

http://www.sinclairintl.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?catego...m=03-6000&type=store

On the muzzle end. I put it in a gun vise or cleaning cradle and spray in from the breech. The Splatter box catches all the overspray and patches no muss no fuss. I usually lay a paper towel under the bore guide to catch any rearward seepage......................DJ

Ditto, except no splatter-box. I use any of the Delrin or similar bore cleaning guides, put my rifle in a cheapo MTM cleaning cradle, and put one paper towel on the work bench under the muzzle and another on top the stock under the butt end of the cleaning rod guide.

Then a 1 second shot of Wipe-Out through the cleaning rod guide, wait a few seconds and remove the paper towel from atop the stock. Then off to do other things...

As to turning the rifle over to get the "top half" of the barrel, I haven't found that required, yet. I suspect using "Wipe-Out" in a barrel is a lot like using "Easy-Off" in a dirty oven. Sure, the foam may turn partially back into a liquid over time, but enough has adhered to the upper surface to do the job.

Albert, I went with the Splatter box after I made a nice Wipe-Out splatter pattern on my garage door 6 ft away! Every once in a while it sprays a little hard..................Dj

quote:

Originally posted by djpaintles:
Albert, I went with the Splatter box after I made a nice Wipe-Out splatter pattern on my garage door 6 ft away! Every once in a while it sprays a little hard..................Dj

Hi, DJ -

I actually think the splatter box is a really good idea, I just don't use one. Partly it's because I am becoming lazy(ier), partly because I'd probably never find it half the time with all the stuff in my shop, and partly because I never thought of it when I first started using W/O.

Have never had any shoot through my barrel and out the other end, yet...since several have mentioned that, am starting to wonder if it's because I keep my shop at a constant 68-70 degrees, winter and summer?

If I remember your part of the country correctly, it can get pretty warm in a garage in the summer....(got a grad degree from OU back when they had REAL football teams! Grin)

quote:

Originally posted by Alberta Canuck:

If I remember your part of the country correctly, it can get pretty warm in a garage in the summer....(got a grad degree from OU back when they had REAL football teams! Grin)

Yea it's been 6 years since we've won the National Championship and 3 since we were playing in the National Championship game 3 out of 4 years. We pretty much think we should be playing in it every year like we were 2000-2004.
In the summer it's not warm in my Garage it's )*^&)(*&_)(*& HOT! This year we had something like 45 days in a row over 100deg F. You'd think I would have sweated off a few more pounds............ ..........DJ

Have you tried the Sinclair Breech plugs??

no, but I can. Thanks.

If you plug the breech it creates and air pocket and the wipeout is not solid throughout otherwise you could just insert the bolt and lock in lugs.

An alternative to plugging the chamber is a length of vinyl or neoprene tubing that fits snug in the chamber to direct any overflow out of the action on a paper towel or in a container.

I've also soaked the excess up with fresh cleaning patches and use em later for light cleaning jobs, store em in a zip lock bag.

Thanks everyone for your help.

I have cut off the cone shaped nozzle off a large squeeze bottle or tube of caulking. Trim the small end the this cone big enought to fit over the vinyl tube on the can of foam bore cleaner. (I warmed up the tube in hot water to soften it before pushing in on the tube).

Push the tube into the large end of the cone until it sticks out the small end 1/4".

Now you can insert the small end of the cone into the rifle chamber and get a tight fit from the flared large end of the cone (it so big it won't go totally into the chamber) so the foam won't backfire out the chamber.

I press my finger lightly over the muzzle and squirt in the foam until I feel pressure on my finger Let the air in the bore escape until foam starts to come out the muzzle. Ware vinyl gloves.

I also use a splatter box to catch the drips when the foam liquifies. I roll the rifle and
rotate the splatter box at 15 min intervals to insure the barrel stays coated with the cleaning chemical.

I just leave the bolt in and closed. Apply Wipeout from the muzzle and keep horizontal. Works great.

Lots of interesting ideas, here's another.
I take a cartridge case for that gun and drill out the primer pocket to a size just smaller than the 1/4" plastic tubing used to connect icemaker to frig.
Heat one end of the tubing and fir onto Wipe Out nozzle while still hot (it wll stay that way when it cools). Insert the other edd into back of case, case into chamber and squirt away while gun is in horizontal position. Leave case in until WO stops expanding. Remove go to next caliber.
I use the same cases with a home made seating guage I made from brake line tubing and a brazing rod, like the seating depth guage sold by Sinclair International, so I put them to double use.