That is my experience also.
It does the same to a 788 Remington also.

quote:

Originally posted by M Pursell:
A common job I get in is a Remington 700 with a non functional trigger. When taken apart, they are often coated with a yellow, sticky film. I clean it up, it works. I ask the customer if he uses WD40 on, the answer is yes.

Use it if you want. It's good for business.

If this was true it would not be outselling everything out there.There is also the benefit of a thin oil instead of a viscous oil that causes unwanted pressures and wear.

WD-40 does not leave a gummy residue. Any gummy residue is from lubricants that were applied prior to the WD-40 and was softened by it. WD-40 is not a good lubricant but it is a great water displacer which is what it was engineered to do. If you want a cleaner get one made for the job and if you want a lubricant get one for the job. We don't put 90 W gear lube in an engine and you don't use transmission fluid in a differential. In a gun most any mineral oil will lubricate well. It will attract dirt from the environment so it requires maintenance. If you start with clean parts and assemble with a 50/50 mix of kerosine and ATF your gun will remain lubricated until it gets dirty and needs to be cleaned and reoiled. You want a shortcut? Deal with the results.

Ask your gun what it likes and you will see that it says WD-40!
Ask your dies too.
It can be very harmful to a rifle if you play around with viscous oils.

My guns say keep that crap away from them.

Independent engineering tests show that Brichwood Casey Barricade is a far more effective rust preventative for guns, tools or anything else than WD-40. Barricade is about the same or less viscosity than WD-40.

There are also other products by G96 that beat WD-40 in the 96 hour salt fog tests.

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:
Ask your gun what it likes and you will see that it says WD-40!
Ask your dies too.
It can be very harmful to a rifle if you play around with viscous oils.

I been using WD 40 for 30 years or more, I clean the bore first with bore cleaner then swab it out with WD. I buy it by the gallon and use spray bottles. Never had a rusted bore. Also use it to wipe off the exterior of the gun. If you have problems with gumming you aren"t using enough to flush out the gunk.

I buy Barricade in the small can and do not have to use but a very small amount.
I quit using WD-40 for anything except removing tar from my car 40 years ago. It would not protect my firearms from rust.

quote:

Originally posted by Jon Leary:
I been using WD 40 for 30 years or more, I clean the bore first with bore cleaner then swab it out with WD. I buy it by the gallon and use spray bottles. Never had a rusted bore. Also use it to wipe off the exterior of the gun. If you have problems with gumming you aren"t using enough to flush out the gunk.

We used it in Viet Nam, so much so, that the company that makes it shorty put it on the shelves for the public.Really lifts and prevents most water on our weapons, and it does rain in Viet Nam....A lot. Our cans were the typical green US.Gov ones. We did used the red stuff (MIL. spec) for the gun bore cleaning. You will find some postings with the recipe for the red stuff.

I am quite impressed with WD40 but I have not used it a lot.

I read a salt spray test years ago and Eezox was the clear winner after 3 months of allowing the salt water to act on the metal. I find Eezox really good for bolts, triggers & such - it does not accumulate gunk like some of the other lubricants.

The link below is one of the more comprehensive tests I have seen (and apparently this guy has too much time on his hands). When I was 16 my grandfather gave me a 20 ga Ithaca semi-automatic shotgun that he won at a DU raffle. I abused that gun for years chasing rabbits, grouse, squirrels, deer and ducks. The only thing I ever used on it was WD40 - ignorance is bliss, but 32 yrs later, the gun still functions like new. After reading the experiment listed below, I now use only WD40 specialist Corrosion Inhibitor and Frog Lube.
http://www.shotgunworld.com/bb...pic.php?f=2&t=398836

If you gob on any oil its likely to become counter productive...use it sparingly..I use WD 40 for dry and humid climates from The high deserts of the Texas Big Bend or Arizona to the sweltering clime of parts of Africa..it works for me, a thin coat wipe down ever day or so..For long term storage old fashion RIG grease is the best. For lubricating guns I like a very thin coat of red Transmission oil..

I am switching to Kellube now for all lubricating.

I use it and it works for what I need.

quote:

Originally posted by dogcat:
I use it and it works for what I need.

What is it you need?Use what?

Shoot,
I use WD40 to clean all of my guns and take it with me to Africa to dust off the guns.

I use RemOil as well but WD40 cleans nearly everything and I never have issues with it.

Good to know dogcat.
I did a little experiment the other day using 4 oils.
I put a band of oil(a few drops) of each on a piece of metal(a larger ruler shaped file) and observed what happened instantly as well a couple of days later.
I saw at what rate each would be absorbed into the pores and how quickly they would spread in all directions if at all.
I used WD-40,Kellube,MP-10 and Mil-Comm 2500.
WD-40 was absorbed fast and spread fast also left no wetness.
MP-10 was also absorbed fast but spread like wildfire and showed very little wetness.
Kellube was slow to be absorbed and spread very little.It showed some wetness a couple of days later.
Mil-Comm was not absorbed at all.It did not spread and remained a ball of liquid on top of the metal.
I want to try Weapon-Shield.I read it is made by George Fennell the fellow who invented?? MP-10.It is supposed to be better than FP-10-which is a good oil,IMO.

To me, this is like the "Which bullet is better" argument. It depends on what you are looking for. Is one looking for a lubricant, anti-corrosive, water displacer, penetrating oil, or a combo of some together? Are you really going to leave your weapon unattended for 72 hours as some of the tests indicate with no attention in a harsh climate? I don't. If you are storing for the long haul, isn't that another product all together? Are you really going to smear your rifle with a hotdog and leave it for days? Let's get real!

Bottom line, find the one you like for your purpose and use it.

I use RIG and have never had a problem in any climate.

As we advance oils will no doubt become more and more sophisticated.I am worried about using the latest high tech oil in my bore.Who knows-it might have a adverse effect on accuracy? If it does who knows how far down the wrong road you will go before discovering that issues came from the oil?

Sometimes you try to do good, but end up doing bad. Years ago, I inherited a really large meat grinder, complete with pulleys and electric motor. After grinding the meat from several deer, it was time to put the thing away for the year. I took all those perforated steel plates and cutting blades and soaked them liberally in WD-40 and sealed the parts in freezer bags. A year later threre was no rust, but I spent the best part of a day cleaning gummy wax off. After that experience, I used mineral oil for meat grinder storage. I just cringe when I see Joe hunter hose down a trigger assembly with WD.

I have decided to do away with oils in my bore.From now on I am going to use wipe-out and JB and that is all.IMO oil in the bore destroys everything-accuracy and causing more copper fouling too.I always need to shoot until the oil is out before I can get good groups and correct POI.I am tired of this shit.

You people that like WD40, try the aerosol form of Ballistol.

All these years I thought WD-40 was fish oil, not paraffin and kerosene, I'm not drinking that stuff anymore, I hate paraffin and kerosene, taste like moonshine. So whats Ballisterol taste like?

Do not like WD40 for anything. Much better stuff is out there to use.

WD-40 beats nothing---

if its what you have , use it. Yes, there are better products out there but it sure beats rust.

The MSDS for WD 40 is here:


http://www.wd40company.com/fil...msds-wd494716385.pdf

The 10 percent the company won't identify has got to be the "secret sauce". I was told by a Dupont Tribolist that WD 40 was made of light oils that evaporated off quickly and left a silicon film on the surface. I have experienced the gummy layer on old metals sprayed with WD 40 and stored for long periods. I have no idea what the gummy layer is made of. Based on the test results, http://www.shotgunworld.com/bb...pic.php?f=2&t=398836 WD 40 is OK as a rust preventative but the WD 40 Corrosion inhibitor is better.

I have put a light coating of WD-40 in my blued barrels after cleaning for years for rust protection while stored. The upside is when I take them to shoot I don't need to punch the bore first as WD-40 goes on wet and then dries. WD-40 is not user friendly with other lubricants.
I use Eezox on the exterior on my blued firearms now for rust protection and in the bore of my carry pistol but wipe the bore out with a dry patch. So far no rust and I carry in my right front pants pocket in a pocket holster.

As my father told me 40 some years ago, WD-40 is good for chasing water out of distributor caps and removing stickers off of metal bumpers. That's about the beginning and end of it's usefulness I have found.

I am a Kroil guy myself. Two patches with contact cleaner before I pack the truck removes any traces. I also fire a fouling shot before I start trying to shoot Rockchucks...

My dad taught me on Hoppes and WD-40. Over the years I've tried a lot of different stuff. I've finally settled on Ballistol for general gun care and Wipe-Out for the bore. On my AR bolts, I like plain old white lithium grease.

This thread is much to do over nothing IMO..Most oils do a good job, the secret is to not neglect your guns..

quote:

Originally posted by Atkinson:
This thread is much to do over nothing IMO..Most oils do a good job, the secret is to not neglect your guns..

Most threads are much to do over nothing. It's the internet. We are all just wasting time when we'd rather be hunting for shooting.

quote:

Originally posted by Atkinson:
This thread is much to do over nothing IMO..Most oils do a good job, the secret is to not neglect your guns..

Amen!!
I have seen rifles that had been maintained for many, many years using nothing but 3n1 oil. A good friend has a 20YO 7mag that before it's put away, he hoses it down with WD-40 (after cleaning the bore). I mean everything, lock, stock, and barrel. When I'm doing a deep clean before putting a rifle away, I flush out the trigger assembly with WD-40. Been doing it for 40 years or so. Never had a trigger problem.

I find that WD-40 is the right medicine for oiling a bolt and bolt raceways especially with somewhat tight tolerances.My Satterlee action really likes WD-40.It is not a loose and very hard metal action like my Ruger and Vektor.No binding bolt operation with WD-40.I think this might be because it is a very thin oil.It is a very convenient to use oil(spray) and does not cost much so it is always there to use.

Many oils are too light as lubricants here and you will lube slide rails and shoot an IPSC match and have no lube by midday.

I use WD40 for the first path down the bore after shooting to get the loose carbon, primer residue and crud out of the bore. A lubed patch ges down the bore easier and I don't like the squeak of a tight dry patch. Two of those and the loose fouling is out and then I clean with other products.

I've used it often when a firearm gets wet or after handling and generally works ok. I used it for many years prior to getting Rig Grease which is the best. Strangeley even when WD40 dried it seemed to leave no residue on the firearms exterior. Q20 seemed to be worse and was used many years in the past due to necessity...

As mentioned, great to remove stickers. I need to try it as a hand cleaner.

Water displacement, check. Rust prevention, check. Cleaning solvent (especially for wad plastic, but also bullet wax), check. Lube, not for me.

What PaulS said is spot-on. I would emphasize, as corollary, the reason "other lubricants" become gummy relates to mixing with WD40.

So I am one of those WD as lube naysayers because such mixture resulted in a cold-weather hangfire and a missed whitetail. Couldn't figure out what happened as the striker (Ruger 77) dropped fine later in the AM. Next AM in almost exact same situation had another hangfire, but also the presence to stay on the animal in a wind-shaking tree-stand long enough to kill it. That led to a thorough strip and clean.

I do not use WD40 now for trigger groups b/c of the possibility I'll need to spray something else in there. CLP is what I use for trigger groups now.

All said, I still use alot of WD, though for purposes mentioned in the first paragraph.

i use WD40 a first wipe down for Water Displacment........ that's what it WD40 is for.... then i use remoil to coat things with to keep from rusting..... i buy the big spray cans of remoil and use it all kinds of stuff in my house... almost anything that needs a shot of good light oil.......................


democrat or american who are you?

I've use WD-40 as the final bore treatment after carbon and copper removal with solvents unless I'm placing the rifle in storage in which case I'll use a light coat of Hoppe's gun oil.

What I've found is that a very light coat of WD-40 applied to the bore eliminates first shot flyers in my rifles.

I dry final WD-40 wetted patch on a paper towel so that only a very light coating is left in the bore. I run the patch through three times to assure that all excess is removed and only a light coat remains.

Been doing this for 30 years and it works for me.

quote:

I now use only WD40 specialist Corrosion Inhibitor and Frog Lube.

I read the test too and subsequently bought a few bottles of Frog Lube. Horrible stuff unless you use it strictly for long term rust prevention. It becomes gummy and sticky. I used it on my son's Super Black Eagle at end of season last year after he was in the rain all day. Gun would not function this year, completely gummed up. We had to completely take it apart, use brake cleaner, and air compressor on it to get all the gunk out. Outside, fine if you don't mind the tacky texture, Inside, never unless you're using it to clean barrel and are going to remove all but the faintest trace. My advice, buy another product. Like Hornady One Shot TAP, for instance.

Shootaway, more barrels are ruined by cleaning than neglect. IMO most non-target guns barrels are way overcleaned.

I don't think I've ever talked to a gunsmith that doesn't like WD-40 because it creates work for them cleaning up the gummed up actions. Anyone who says WD-40 doesn't leave a sticky deposit if sprayed on and left must be living on another planet than me. It's not bad stuff, great water displacer, just not designed for triggers or tight spaces.

In corrosion test after test Eezox and Hornady One Shot come out on top. Neither get gummy or leave a varnish-like surface.

WD-40 Specialist and Frog Lube both work well to prevent corrosion, however, the Specialist leaves a varnish-like residue on the surface and as Gato said, Frog's Lube leaves a gummy residue. No bueno.