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A few weeks ago I got the call from my wife that our basement had flooded while I was away on business. In the two days it took me to get home most of the water was gone and the water remediation people were getting things dried out. However, I had my 16 ga 870 express sitting inside a soft gun case next to my safe. Needless to say, when I pulled the gun out of the gun case it was dripping with water, and I actually poured water from the gun case. The next morning I went downstairs and rust was everywhere on it. I've been since trying to get rid of the rust but it keeps coming back. I've got the majority of it taken care of but it is still popping up on the rib and under the rib. Luckily there are no signs of rust on the action or trigger assembly. It is confined to the outside of the barrel and housing. Looks like anywhere there is a slight ding from use is where the rust is showing up. Now, to my question. What should I do to get rid of this rust problem. I've been cleaning with Gunslick's Ultra Kleanz and follwoing with a healthy coating of Rem Oil. Any other thoughts? And can you recommend a set of tools that I can easily get under the rib and take care of the problems there as well. Thanks, Graybird "Make no mistake, it's not revenge he's after ... it's the reckoning." | ||
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one of us |
Gunslick as well as tiptons make a set of picks for gun cleaning I would imagine they would do the trick. I have one gun that seems to develope a rust spot constantly that I can't really get to. I can't leave it alone and couldn't stop it. I sprayed the area with gun stuff called "Guard it" the stuff sprays out like glue or wax, thick and sticky. but no more rust. I belive it works because oxygen can't get to it to allow it ot rust any more. What ever the reason I've never seen rust there any more. The stuff cleans off well with any mild gun cleaning solvent. No good deed goes unpunished. | |||
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One of Us |
If you can stand the smell wrap it in kerosene soaked rags for two weeks. It will cure it. | |||
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One of Us |
I can feel your pain! I have been through the same problem but with a few more treasures. My cleaning process was as follows: 1. We did not remove the firearms from the water until we were ready to clean. I understand that you did not have this option. 2. We disassembled the guns as far as a layman could go, including removing the wood. 3. Then we used an air compressor to blow the water off and dry the surface, and also to get the majority of the water out of the action. 4. Then we used Kroil and wiped the larger surfaces thoroughly, then used nylon brushes about the size of a toothbrush to work the smaller, tighter areas. 5. Then used air again to get the Kroil off. Then wipe down with soft dry rags. 6. Then used Eezox on everything metal. Wiped it down and that was the end. Dried the wood slowly, made repairs as needed. 7. Two days later we reassembled. Observations: A. If you have a friend that is a gunsmith, call him first and get his recommendations. My gunsmith came over and spent the day with me working through the problems. B. The guns that were cleaned sprayed and wiped with Eezox prior to the flood had no adverse effects from the water, except for the wood. NO RUST AT ALL! C. The metal parts that were in guncases where they were in contact with the lining, or the muzzles that were in contact with the carpet in the safe, had to be reblued. My friend the gunsmith was an invaluable resource! D. Everything is back together now. The only remaining problem is some staining on the wood that came from the slings swivel screws and action screws bleeding into the wood grain. Still working on repairing this problem. I would suggest that you take your shotgun to a top notch gunsmith and have it reblued. The blueing process will stop the rust issue and will make the whole appearance much better. It's one of those heartbreaking experiences. Good Luck and Merry Christmas! SD Shooter | |||
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One of Us |
There is a product called Evaporust that I have used on items other than firearms and it works wonders. Takes the rust off and protects the metal afterward. I think the place I got it from was called "The Rust Store" (No joke). It flat out works. You may have to do some steel wooling to get at the oxidized rust afterward. You can soak a barrel and action in it (get something like a wallpaper tray they use to soak down wallpaper at Home Depot of Lowes and let it go to work. SCI Life Member DSC Life Member | |||
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One of Us |
My basement flooded 3 months ago, and I need to pull a ton of reloading stuff out so new wood floors can be installed. I will give you an 870 is you organize my basement to my wife's satisfaction. | |||
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one of us |
For under the rib, try some pipe cleaners, also some of the dental picks with nylon brushes might work. Copper wire ought to work too. Here is a trick for stuborn rust spots that doesn't damage surrounding metal work. Rub with a penny. Wipedown frequently as the rust comes loose since the rust itself is abrassive. The penny is soft enough that damage to bluing in minimal. Bronze wool works for larger areas, but it traps removed rust, and the abrassiveness of the trapped rust will remove some adjacent bluing. Have you called your homeowners insurance co about the firearms? The NRA insurance program if you are a member? Good luck, JPK Should have added that if you use a penny or bronze wool you should use a light oil as a lubricant so you are only working the rust and not the surrounding blue. Free 500grains | |||
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One of Us |
i'd throw it in a tank of diesel for a couple days then dry it off with laquer thinner then oil it up | |||
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One of Us |
I had a similar problem with some gun parts that were covered in surface rust , the way I fixed it was to boil them in water .This is how they used to get a rust blue finish back in the old days. 10 minutes in boiling water followed by a rub down with steel wool and finally rubbed down with oil stopped the rust dead. cheers Pete It's mercy, compassion and forgiveness I lack; not rationality. | |||
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