Some guy at the range today said they've stopped production of Wipeout foam - anyone know wassup?

Have they not replaced it with the patch out liquid in a bottle that you can carry in a plane?

Doesn't matter to me -- KG products now. Try Gunslick = same stuff as WipeOut foam.

I just talked to them, Wipeout is alive and well, Midway has it in stock if you don't have a local dealer which is my situation, when Sportsmans Warehouse sold out the Wholesale Sports, they dropped Wipeout.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewp...productnumber=784639

And FYI, Wipeout is NOT the same as Gunslick, Gunslick, Forrest Bore Foam, Outers and a bunch of others are repackaged Milfoam which is made in Finland, Wipeout is made here in the US.

http://www.milfoam.fi/

Sharp Shoot R Precision Products

785-883-4444 Phone

http://www.paulcousa.com/wipeout.htm

Good information WT. Thanks for your research!

Try Patchout before you yearn to hard for wipe out. I've all the KG products but don't reach for them anymore.

No skin off my nose if that junk is gone. The same company actually makes stuff that works.

There is no free lunch. If you think you can really truly clean a barrel (or anything else really) with no scrubbing or no work, you deserve the groups you are going to get.


I tried it in several barrels; some that were notorious foulers and some that were not--in EVERY case-- when used as directed the chemical in question did NOT remove anything like 90% of fouling--as evidenced by the borescope. When used with a good tight bronze brush--as other cleaners are--it works quite well.

There are persons on the shooting forums who apparently have invested in large stocks of this stuff to sell and get all bent out of shape when the truth is told----I know no reputable gunsmith or match shooter who will endorse this stuff unless a brush is used in conjunction with it.

My major gripe apart from the fact that it needs the brush and claims not to, is that the foam--when used as directed--especially on stubborn cases of copper fouling-- can be inadvertently left in nooks and crannies--like the flash hider of your AR--well OK-- MY AR and then dry overnight and not be seen until the rifle is taken out of the temp and humidity controlled safe 3 weeks later when RUST has formed in those selfsame nooks and crannies--

I had not considered this until I read about it on a different forum and went into the safe to look at my AR--!W$^#$^%^&%& RUST!!!!!after using this product..........form your own conclusions

Thanks for the responses - good news! I'll try the Patchout, too.

quote:

Originally posted by BNagel:
Doesn't matter to me -- KG products now. Try Gunslick = same stuff as WipeOut foam.

Gunslick might be foam but it's not the same Formula as Wipe Out
as the owner of Wipe Out has never released the chemical formula.
Edit - just read your post "wrongtarget", good info.

Patch Out has now largely replaced Wipe Out Foam and works just as well
but you can still get the foam if you want it.

Wipe Out is a pain to ship around the world because it is an Aerosol.


amamnn
I have always said to use a brush - although a plastic one, not a brass one and this includes for pushing the patches through.
I have found Wipe Out does get 90% of the copper out but I have also said to use a brush to "foam up" the liquid again as well as use Hoppe's or another powder solvent in between using the copper cleaner to attack the layers of powder which lie on top of the Copper.

Yes, I sell it, but I tested it before buying a heap of it as I was sick
of Sweets 7.62 and other ammonia based products.

.

Thread title nearly wiped me out!
Wipe-Out works great. No better cleaner have I found.
I always use a plastic/nylon bristle brush with a patch over it to push the foam out.
Then repeat some dry patches over the tight fitting nylon brush.
Then I flush everywhere the foam contacted with GunScrubber, or whatever similar.
Dry patch again.
Inspect bore.
If any traces of fouling are seen, rarely, then a second foam application is done, rarely needed.
When the bore is clean and dried with the evapaorative GunScrubber and dry patching,
then I use a couple of patches soaked with BreakFree CLP to oil the bore for storage.

I would sure hate to do without Wipe-Out.

quote:

Wipe-Out works great. No better cleaner have I found

+1

+1 for Wipeout!!!!

I like it a lot. Get it at the local Sportsmans Warehouse.

I'll sure miss wipe out if it's discontinued.

Wipeout sure does a god job. My Kimber 7mm08 was given a good soak & clean after over 500 rounds of shoting with intermitant cleaning. Now it is back to shooting its best. I got a group of .6 inch 3 shots with regular Remington PSPCL bulk cheap bullets. No more flyers and stringing.

You need to get rid of this link...or at least post a disclaimer saying it ISN'T TRUE.

quote:

Originally posted by amamnn:
My major gripe apart from the fact that it needs the brush and claims not to, is that the foam--when used as directed--especially on stubborn cases of copper fouling-- can be inadvertently left in nooks and crannies--like the flash hider of your AR--well OK-- MY AR and then dry overnight and not be seen until the rifle is taken out of the temp and humidity controlled safe 3 weeks later when RUST has formed in those selfsame nooks and crannies--

I had not considered this until I read about it on a different forum and went into the safe to look at my AR--!W$^#$^%^&%& RUST!!!!!after using this product..........form your own conclusions

Same issue, different results..

My nook & crannies consisted of WipeOut creeping past the front receiver screw & being soaked up by the stock and absorbing the lower part of the stock around the recoil lug clear around the mag floor plate. This softened the wood and the finish as well as staining. Letting stock air dry right now for about a week. Hopefully it will return back to normal, but afraid the stain is permanent..

My opinion of Wipe-Out foaming bore cleaner is based entirely on 100% first hand personal experience.

I first read about Wipe-Out on the net at IIRC 6mm BR shooters website. It got raived reviews there, so I desided to try some. I was looking for a quicker and easior way to clean my rifles as well as a way that did not use dozens of patches every time I cleaned. For example I once kept count of how many cotton cleaning patches I used for cleaning two CF rifles and one ML. I ended up using well over 100.

Wipe-out worked extreamly well with only one draw back, it was slooooooow.

It did successfuly remove over 90% of my copper fouling 1st time I used it, but I make a point of only shooting 30 shots or less out of my CF rifles between cleanings, so I can not attest to Wipe-outs usefulness on a truely heavly copper fouled bore.

I use to use CR-10 for all my copper removal, but now use W/O instead.

I do not know if other foaming cleaners work as well or better I just know W/O works well for me. I can clean my rifles using 1/3-1/2 fewer patches than before, and that is what I like most about it is I work less and use fewer patches.

Agree with Art, works extremely well but very slow..I just have to come up with a different method of application..

quote:

Originally posted by MopaneMike:
Agree with Art, works extremely well but very slow..I just have to come up with a different method of application..

Mike

How are you applying it ?

From the muzzle or the chamber ?


You may already know this but Sometimes, if it is slow on the 2nd application, I have found that 2 things can sometimes work.
1. Use a powder solvent between the application of Wipe out.
2. use a brush to "re foam up" the Wipe out once it has turned to liquid". It's also not bad to "rough up" the barrel using a copper brush while you are cleaning with powder solvent.

Just my HO, hope that helps.

.

quote:

How are you applying it ?

From the muzzle or the chamber ?

Does this matter? I've always applied from the muzzle...hmmm?

Thanks,

friar

I apply Wipe-Out and other foams from the chamber using a section of tubing inserted all the way into the chamber to seal against the shoulder or throat then slip a drink bottle over the muzzle to collect any excess which can be used just like Patch-Out.


http://www.sinclairintl.com/.a...Bore_Cleaner___8_oz_

quote:

Originally posted by friarmeier:

quote:

How are you applying it ?

From the muzzle or the chamber ?

Does this matter? I've always applied from the muzzle...hmmm?

Thanks,

friar

Well, yes.

1. It is heaps easier to apply via the chamber and if you happen to over do the pressing of the button, any excess comes out of the muzzle.

If you overdo the pressure when applying from the muzzle, you can end up filing the chamber and more, it can come out the chamber into the action / onto the stock if not sealed 100%.

So it is just safer.


WrongTarget has it spot on with his plastic tubes to seal the chamber.

The only thing I would add is I use a Pencil sharpener to bevel the ends of the clear plastic tube as it makes a better seal on the shoulder of the chamber.

I use longer tubes and
I also use 3 sizes of tube
- 22 cal type,
- 30 - 338/375 cal type and
- 375/458+ cal type.

.

Cleaned my .375 with gunslick when I got back from Namibia last month the put it in a case in the pickup. I'm sure the truck got very hot inside because it got to 115 outsided several days. Got the rifle out to shoot something and the bolt end and bullets were covered in sticky varnish like stuff. took forever to get that crap cleaned up with CR10. I thought I had the rifle clean and dry when I put it in the truck but apparantly not enough. That foam may be fast but you better get it all off when your through cleaning.

If gunslick works on brass/copper the same way Patchout does it probably attacked risidual brass on the face of your bolt.
I've learned not to leave spent Patchout soaked patches anywhere near brass cases as they dry. Even from 6" away one damp patch will fume brass and give it that sticky black varnish you mention - happened to an open box of 6br cases a few months ago. I wiped those cases down with more patchout to remove the goo then a water rinse and am now careful to get damp patches in the garbage can right away.

quote:

Originally posted by bullwaller:
Cleaned my .375 with gunslick when I got back from Namibia last month the put it in a case in the pickup. I'm sure the truck got very hot inside because it got to 115 outsided several days. Got the rifle out to shoot something and the bolt end and bullets were covered in sticky varnish like stuff. took forever to get that crap cleaned up with CR10. I thought I had the rifle clean and dry when I put it in the truck but apparantly not enough. That foam may be fast but you better get it all off when your through cleaning.