The Accurate Reloading Forums THE ACCURATE RELOADING.COM FORUMS Guns, Politics, Gunsmithing & Reloading Gun Cleaning Forum Hoppes Elite problem?Go | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply | |
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| One of Us |
I've been cleaning with butches bore shine: I run a wet bronze brush down the bore twice, then patch out, then oil and then patch dry. That all works fine. However, I have some Hoppes Elite that I thought to try to see if it was removing any carbon that the butches wasn't getting at. On each occasion I've tried to use it I've found that a patch with the Hoppes is nearly too tight to push down the barrel. I'm using the same patches and jag as for everything else and they are suitable for the bore size (.308) but the patches with Hoppes just stick firm and require a lot of panting and puffing and pushing as hard as I can manage to get them down the barrel and the same applies for any patches I push down to try and dry the Hoppes out. Mostly I have to spray some oil down the barrel to get the patch to move. Is this problem unique to me or are others finding the same? I suspect the hoppes is in some way less lubricated than the oil, butches etc. and so it just locks solid. At the minute I'm too frightened to use it in case I get a patch stuck though it does seem to move some carbon (well black stuff anyhow) that the butches leaves behind. | ||
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That is interesting, have you tried running a nylon brush with the elite? That might break something loose that the other stuff ain't getting??? | |||
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I haven't tried that yet, I don't have a nylon brush but was intending to try the Hoppes on a bronze brush to see what the result was. I suspect that the bronze brush will go down ok but that when i attempt to patch it out then the patch will stick firm. I'm going to try a size smaller patch to see if that helps a little but the correct size patches go down no bother (well they are tight but they don't stick) with butches or oil. | |||
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caorach, I have noticed this same thing in many rifles, in fact I was cleaning a 270 just a bit ago, and I know the barrel is really in good shape, I looked at it with my bore scope. With a little Tetra lube a 1 3/8" patch on a Dewey jag goes down smooth as silk. With a dry patch it is a real chore to get it down the bore. I chalk it up to variances in the bores, some rigs I have this happen when I know the barrel is clean, on some not..... Good Luck--Don | |||
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I noticed the same thing. I don`t think Hoppes Elite has any lubercant in it, the directions as I remember said to oil after useing. The stuff leaves the metal feeling very dry if wiped in the outer areas of a firearm, such as revolver cylinder faces ect. I didn`t feel it worked any better or as well as Butches or reg Hopppes/Hoppes BR, and when I was done with the bottle I gave up on it. It did a good job on the carbon but doesn`t touch copper or lead. It is oderless though, and nice if used in a basement or other small area, seemed like nothing but soap to me, but what do I know...JMO ------------------------------------ The trouble with the Internet is that it's replacing masturbation as a leisure activity. ~Patrick Murray "Why shouldn`t truth be stranger then fiction? Fiction after all has to make sense." (Samual Clemens) "Saepe errans, numquam dubitans --Frequently in error, never in doubt". | |||
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What is interesting me about this is that a dry patch will go down the bore without any trouble, the problem happens when there is some of the Hoppes in the bore. I've sure there is a materials scientist out there who can explain it but it just seemed odd to me that a wet patch stuck like glue. I thought that the Hoppes did remove some carbon that the butches didn't get but perhaps this was due to the force that had to be used to move the patch rather than any benefit of the Hoppes in itself. As indicated I'm going to try putting the Hoppes down on a bronze brush and then oil a patch, perhaps slightly undersized, and put it down to see if that works. Reports will follow thought it will be a while before I get the chance again. | |||
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The elite/Mpro7 is strictly a detergent, and as sutch is ver y effective at removeing the carbon and stripping everything down to bare metal. You can try off setting where you put your jag a bit off center of the patch, I know it has worked for me. Yes it's cocked, and it has bullets too!!! | |||
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That's funny. I've had nearly the opposite experence. Haven't used Elite, but No 9 or Sweets is OK, but when I tried to patch out Butches' Bore Shine the same size patch almost jams. | |||
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Hey caorach, I've been trying some of the Hoppe's Elite Bore Gel while out shooting and haven't noticed the problem. Best of luck to you. | |||
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caorach, I've cleaned 2 rifles recently with Hoppes Elite, 300 win, & 338 win. The 300 was no problem, but it was impossible to put a patch through the 338. I had to use the 30 cal jag for the 338. With Butches Bore Shine the patches go through the 338 no problem. As a side note, I started with the Hoppes Elite. Aprox 10 wet patches, then 20 strokes with a brush & continue with wet patches until it came out clean. Then I tried Butches. First patch came out black, go figure. | |||
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Caorach, As someones else has pointed out Hoppes Elite is nothing more/less that MP7. That said the istructions for use recommend a bronze brush & pretty vigorous scrubbing. Leave for 10 -15 mins then patch out. Then apply whatever is your copper remover - I use Wipe Out then I patch that our with MP7. Then patch out with an oiled patch run through 2x. The MP7 very effectively removes all traces of oil so most likely why patches feel tight initially till you oil it again. Regards JohnT | |||
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That seems to be the case John, I did some testing today and instead of using the .30 cal patches i used .22 patches after the Hoppes and that seemed to do the job just fine. I ran the Hoppes down on a bronze brush, let it sit a while and then chased it out with a .22 patch followed by some oil and standard .30 patches. One to watch out for as I very nearly got the patch stuck previously, it required all my strength and quite some time to move it. | |||
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I use the Elite occasionally and I notice the same thing. It attacks carbon more aggessively then most cleaners and I am betting that binds up the patch. | |||
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Butches Bore shine is about as effective as a cup of water IMO...Hoppes is better but only for crud and powder residue..wipe the bore first then use the hoppes..Pushing hard on your rod will damage the rifles throat real quickly, don't do that... Wipe out is the best way to get copper fouling out and that is the enemy of accuracy...I put a 8 inch rubber tube on the Wipe Out spout, run it down the bore and give it one squirt and the foam will push the tube back out of the bore. Be carefull this can spew everywhere until you get the hang of it..Let the foam stay in the barrel for about an hour and wipe it clean, May need to do this two or even three times..then run couple of dry patches down the bore followed by 3 passes with a bore snake and then a patch soaked with WD-40 as the Amonia can cause rust if left unatended..A bore snake is washable and one pass with it equals 140 patches. Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
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