I would like to know the best oil to used on a firearm?

big al3

I have used many many different kinds of oils over the years. A bunch of different "grease's" as well.

My favorite all round is Break Free.

I have been using Prolix in high dusty conditions, and as the final "juice" in my barrels, as it does not cause first round out problems.

I don't oil anything now. It's all Prolix for the bore and a silicone impregnated cloth for the exterior.

NE 450,

I found a old small bottle of break free in the back of my coset a few years back and it had about turned to the consistency of cosmoliene. I have also seen it dry out on surfaces, turning a dark brown. This is after being on firearms stored for quite a while. I was a bit leary of this product after witnessing these effects.I will say their was not rusting on them.
Some of the foaming bore cleaners out there have a rust inhibitor in them. They appear to work well on cleaning and bore protection.
On the outside, I just use a silicone cloth.

ATF.

big al3, Go to your wifes cabinet and get some non-stick olive oil cooking spray, it is a plant based spray that will not alarm any game animal. All gun lubes whether petro based or synthetic stink like hell. Wipe your rifle inside and out with olive oil then you can go shoot a deer then cook it in olive oil, Good eatin and good for you....good luck,...Jerry

I also use breakfee

I use CRC power lube.

My skin is very rough on blued guns and this is the only oil I've tried that will stop my skin chemestry from rusting a gun.

Automatic Transmission Oil (a synthetic) normally.

Olive oil when hunting sounds good.

quote:

Originally posted by eezridr:
NE 450,

I found a old small bottle of break free in the back of my coset a few years back and it had about turned to the consistency of cosmoliene. I have also seen it dry out on surfaces, turning a dark brown. This is after being on firearms stored for quite a while. I was a bit leary of this product after witnessing these effects.I will say their was not rusting on them.
Some of the foaming bore cleaners out there have a rust inhibitor in them. They appear to work well on cleaning and bore protection.
On the outside, I just use a silicone cloth.

I have some bottles of Break Free I bought on sale around 20 years ago and have not seen any problems with them.

I carried it on the spare AR in the trunk of my vehicle for many months in the Texas heat and cold with no problems.

Breakfree CLP isn't the same thing as the original Breakfree, CLP is good stuff, Eezox is a little better, but not commonly available, but Midway carries it.


http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html

A thick gel-like oil in the bore for long term storage(applied with a bore mop) and a very thin oil for lubrication-I prefer WD-40.

quote:

Originally posted by wrongtarget:
Breakfree CLP isn't the same thing as the original Breakfree, CLP is good stuff, Eezox is a little better, but not commonly available, but Midway carries it.


http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html

This is two great articles and I learned alot from them,Thanks for posting!!
(But I do wonder if any of the top oils will do any damage to the factory Camo Finish on my Duck Guns?)

quote:

Originally posted by wrongtarget:
Breakfree CLP isn't the same thing as the original Breakfree, CLP is good stuff, Eezox is a little better, but not commonly available, but Midway carries it.


http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html

Thanks for the links, I had seen those tests before.

Another thing I like about Break Free CLP is how well it keeps an AR 15/M 16 running.

Many, many times I have fired over one thousand rounds in a day from an AR.

I try to "squirt" some Break Free into the reciever, the firing pin hole, and especially into the "Gas Piston" area of the bolt carrier/bolt head every couple of hundred rounds.

I have never had any functioning problems using Break Free CLP with an AR, or any other gun for that matter.

I purchased some surplus military Medium Grade Weapons Oil about 20 years ago. I think it is the finest oil that I personally, have ever used to prevent long term rusting and still permit usage in a split second, meaning cosmoline is better but must be cleaned of prior to using. The mil-spec oil appears to have either silicone or parafin in it. It leaves a thin film on the gun steel (visible to the eye). I have also used it on some severly rusted rifles that I have acquired and it stops the rust and evens seems to soften it up.

Sometimes the best oil is NO oil at all.

For guns that must be on long term standby but ready for IMMEDIATE use, I have been usong a product for many years called E&L Gun and Reel Lube.

It is a Dry Graphite developed for lubrication in Outer Space.

You just spray it on, it dries, and remains in place.

Water will not wash it off, just in case you are hunting in the rain, or "swimming in".

Sand, dust, dirt, powder fouling will not stick to it.

It is black in color, so if you spray your shiny bolt it cuts down on the glare and slicks it up as well.

It can be easily removed with Gun Scrubber.

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:
A thick gel-like oil in the bore for long term storage(applied with a bore mop) and a very thin oil for lubrication-I prefer WD-40.

I'm sure you've heard this before, but it bares repeating. WD-40 is not a lubricant or a rust preventantive.
It dries into a gummy varnish that will make a fiream cease functioning.

quote:

E&L Gun and Reel Lube.

Worked well in the cold and wet for me as well

http://www.american180.com/store/gunlube.html

Breakfree for general purpose lubrication. Eezox as a rust preventative. Eezox is also good when you need a lubricant that leaves a dry surface. I use Brownell's Action Lube Plus on locking lugs and camming surfaces.

I find it is also important to apply the oil in a manner that gives a real slick result.You just need a little amount sprayed on to a patch,then take the patch and rub it on to the walls of the actions race ways,with your finger.This polishes the metal with oil and gives the slickest results.You don't want to much oil anywhere,such that it takes up space and prevents good funtion.

For proper lubrication you need both oil and grease depending on the area needing lubrication....

Militec-1

Combat proven.

Militec-1 is a poor corrosion protectant, it was rated unsatisfactory in the Gun Zone 5 hour test, so bad they didn't test it in the 29 hour test.

http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html

It really sucked in the 6mmBr long term testing!

http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

Wow! That Eezox is kickin' ass...

Have been told that the old German oil "BALLISTOL" is great on Metal and can safely be used to Protect and Preserve Wood and Leather.

Ballistol is supposed to be good stuff too if you can get past the odor from what I read, it's some bad smellling stuff apparently, I've never used it, but is a good protectant from this muzzleloader test.

http://www.ctmuzzleloaders.com...sion/corrosion2.html

Can't find cool comparison tests--
but have used this
http://www.corrosionx.com/corp.html

for several years on the harshly treated fields guns
( and Eezox on the collectibles)

Corrosion X was tested in the 6mmBr tests, although not in the long term test, it was rated right up there with Eezox.

http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html

Only looked at the long term--my bad

Miltec has recieved some good reports regarding keeping a rifle functioning in the sand box, according to Them....

It is not designed as a rust preventer.

My agency found it gummed up in the long term, when used on the patrol shotguns.

I have done several "oil" tests personally, and I am aware of many others...

BreakFree is the best all round product I am aware of.

From Personal Conversations with SPEC OPS Personel, in the Sand Box, who use BreakFree in their AR's, they have not had any functioning problems...

And these folks have a lot of Trigger time...

We've been using Breakfree CLP on all our dept. shotguns and AR's since 2006 and so far life is good.

I use CLP as well for my rifles, and TM grease for bolt/raceway lube. I like Brownell's action grease but find the TM better and easier to apply.

For corrosion resistance I use Eezox. For a lube I use Slip 2000 EWL oil and Militec grease.

I use Eezox on all the metal work that need to be lubed to ease friction and to keep rust away.
Parts that need grease (bolt cam and bolt locking lugs) I use Lucas Red-N-Tacky automotive grease it stays were I put it. One 14 ounce cartridge will last you a life time if just used on firearms but I also grease the Jeeps steering linkage and ball joints too.

Check out the Clenzoil website.

Has anyone had experience using Prolix or have reference links? It is supposed to be a good cleaner and dry lubricant. In addition they have a second Xtra Lube product for actions.

Oday

I have been using both Prolix products for a few years.

I like it real well.

After it dries dust will not stick to it.

Also no matter what I clean a rifle barrel with, I dry the barrel, and then patch some Prolix into the barrel and then dry it out.

My first round out does not hit in a different place.

Also when on a hunt I will clean only with Prolix if I have fired a shot or so or the barrel has become wet.

I actually have met and talked to the Owner of Prolix a few times, after I had used the product a year or so, and asked him several questions about his product.

So far I have not found anything I do not like about it.

Next time I shoot an AR 15 I am going to try it in the "gas system" and see if it does as good as Break Free.

quote:

Originally posted by ozhunter:
Have been told that the old German oil "BALLISTOL" is great on Metal and can safely be used to Protect and Preserve Wood and Leather.

AGREED IT IS GOOD, BUT Clenziol is even better.

I also use Ballistol, and I like it.

It does work good on leather and wood.

I even like the smell of it.

quote:

Originally posted by N E 450 No2:
I also use Ballistol, and I like it.

It does work good on leather and wood.

I even like the smell of it.

good for cuts, scraps and bayonet wounds too.

I bought some Ballistol last weekend, I haven't tried it out yet but I can say that is does not smell as bad or as strong as Eezox.
The Ballistol site says the smell is supposed to dissipate in about 25 minutes where as Eezox stinks for days and days...