Does the JB saturated patch ever not turn black?

Kind of new to the stuff and wondering if my barrels are that dirty.

Thanks

Quite possibly they are that dirty. Keep at it, you'll know when it's clean. And be sure to saturate your patch with Kroil before applying the JB.

Always black -- something to do with being "ironed" on. LionHunter's tip sounds good. If you use a jag, leave it just short of the crown after taking patch off and use a light to check for what's really still left. (Reflects better.)

Always black. I kinda tell when I'm done by how easily the patch/brush slides through the bore.
Also, I slide my rod through the rifle and then attach the brush wrapped in a JB patch to it. So that my first stroke is a pull. This squeegies any excess off around the muzzle rather than in the leade. Every so often, I use my finger to gather the JB from around the muzzle and smear it back onto the patch.

quote:

Originally posted by LionHunter:
Quite possibly they are that dirty. Keep at it, you'll know when it's clean. And be sure to saturate your patch with Kroil before applying the JB.

What does the kroil accomplish?

Kroil is a specially formulated penetrating oil that gets beneath burt in powder and fouling, thereby loosening it. It is highly recommended that the use of Kroil and JB Paste provide the best results when used together. The combination has been used by benchrest shooters for many years to deep clean precision barrels to return their accuracy. You should use a tight patch. I have used the combo for about 15 years myself.

See Brownell's website for more info and an instructional video.

Heres a Brownell videos :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4v7spb32Huc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?f...bedded&v=JaPzrAfemIE

IMHO: I normally clean (New: unfired Rifles/ Used: Heavy old Fouling) with Hoppes,patches,brushes,& then finish-up with a " Soaking with Kroil ".

I'll later use a patch smeared with " JB & Kroil Mix " (Slurry), wrapped/rolled around an " old/very used bore Brush " of the same caliber, instead of a Patch Jag.

The bristles holds the patch in place & slightly compresses, as I push it thru the chamber & down the bore.

I've been playing with " PB Blaster Penetrating Oil " ( Home Depot ) lately.. good stuff.
Spray inside of barrel bore after shooting & let soak ( overnight ?) & scrub out with brushes, finish with patches
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQ9IsGpcCgs

PAPI
Old info on same subject:
http://forums.accuratereloadin...091029241#7091029241

Thought that might be the case.

I think copper is the hardest to remove. I pass a Hoppes No 9 patch through and let it sit over night. No blue means the copper is out and the rifle is clean.

Thanks guys.

quote:

Originally posted by youp50:
Thought that might be the case.

I think copper is the hardest to remove. I pass a Hoppes No 9 patch through and let it sit over night. No blue means the copper is out and the rifle is clean.

Thanks guys.

No, blue does not mean the copper is out(even though it says so in the books).The patch will always turn black even with a bore clean down to the metal.I stop scrubbing when the first inch or so of the bore shows no copper,especially in the corner between the groove and the land(do the q-tip test).I may give it one more cycle to make sure.Always use a boreguide to prevent the rod from bending and scraping against the lands.Also,you don`t need any Kroil or solvent to work with JB-that is bullshit.In one of my longest lasting barrels and most accurate,I used JB alone.

Kroil works good mixed 1/2 & 1/2 with Shooters Choice. I use it at the range (patch until mostly clean / 6 to 10 strokes) and leave the bore wet. No hurry to finish as this will keep for days.

Too much work, too much stink, too much mess... I just use Wipe-out brushless bore cleaner and after its done its job clean out the barrel with some brake cleaner.

Pa.Frank,
Using brake parts cleaner to finish a bore cleaning job in an area with high humidity will rust your bore faster than you can think about it. You need a protective coating on the bore to prevent rust. I use a 50/50 mix of kerosine and ATF (automatic transmission fluid) followed by dry patches. The kerosine makes the ATF penetrate better and then slowly evaporating leaving the corrosion inhibitors in the ATF to protect your bore. I use the same mix as my only gun oil.