My distillation (pardon the pun) of all reliable sources, on the best available products, including home brews, which I have followed and used for years:

BEST GUN CLEANING PRODUCTS

General Bore and Gun Cleaning:
• Ed’s Red homebrew (made by the gallon and brushed, sprayed, or used to soak parts)
• Ed’s Red Plus homebrew (especially for copper fouling)
See Ed's Red and Red Plus

Copper Fouling Removal:
• Wipe Out with Accelerator
• M-Pro 7 Copper Remover
• KG Coatings KG12
• 10% Ammonia/Ivory Soap mix

Heavy Carbon Build-Up:
• Wipe Out with Accelerator
• Piston Kleen (warmed to about 80°F)

Lubrication (Grease):
• Slip EWG
• TW25B grease and aerosol
• Automotive moly lube (especially for sears)

Lubrication (Oil):
• SLIP EWL/EWL30
• MC2500 (TW25B oil)
• 5W20 synthetic motor oil
• ATF
• Any handy “gun oil”

Degreasing:
• Any generic non-chlorinated “brake cleaner”
• 91-99% isopropyl alcohol

Bore Polishing:
• KG Coatings KG2
• JB Bore Paste and Kroil

What is most remarkable and revealing about this list, at least in my view, are the many products, many of which are regularly praised, that are not even on it.

Most of these I am unfamiliar with but will vouch for two products.
KG12 for copper fouling removal. Definitely works. The best method I've found is patching the bore wet first, letting it stand for several hours to overnight then either patching or nylon brushing out. Generally cloe to 100% copper fouling removed.

KG2, noted here for bore polishing. My main use is for removal of very stubborn carbon and or copper fouling or simply faster copper fouling removal. My method is to apply KG2 to a worn bronze brush and pass through the bore about 20 times. If more is required rewet the brush for another 20 strokes. Usually cleans down to bare metal and patching out afterwards to remove residue the bore feels as smooth as glass.

That's a pretty extensive list and gives folks some options. For copper removal, I have found patch out and wipeout to work very well.

For hard carbon removal, I have used Iosso paste, JB's Bore Cleaning Compound, Remington 40X Cleaner and Holland's Witches Brew.

All four of the above products are abrasives. They work best with either a brand new bronze brush or a used bronze brush covered by a patch.

I haven't found a product yet which removes hard carbon and isn't an abrasive. So, I only use them when my borescope shows the carbon is really getting built up, usually in the grooves of the barrel.

Yessir, that's quite a list!

I'm sure everyone has their favorites and no doubt they work well or they wouldn't use them..

My go-to is BoreTech CU-2 carbon and copper remover for cleaning and break free oil for lube and protection.

This combo has just worked like a champ for me for years and years now and I won't change things up now.

Zeke

Glad to see that Wipeout with Accelerator is still top of the list. I have been using it for at least 10 years now. Closer to 15 I think.

What about Break Free CLP for lubrication and rust prevention?

I have been using it for over 25 years and have found no need to change.

If I get serious and my rifles groups open up, I still use a home mixture of blue goop, or hot soapy water with a hot water rinse is as good as it gets..Never been a animal killed with a perfectly clean bore!! go figure. I am a Bore snake fan..and never had a bore problem or a ruined throat..

Many products work, but I have been happy with Bore-Tech cleaning products and other makers syn oil and grease.

quote:

Many products work, but I have been happy with Bore-Tech cleaning products and other makers syn oil and grease.

I have a lube I use for forming and sizing not a problem but the jug does not have a name on it. I call it 'no name case lube, I am not going to live long enough to use it up. And, I only use it on tuff to size/form cases. I do not use it when something else will work.

I made cleaning rod/barrel cleaners out of basically nothing, for me nothing works better..

F. Guffey

Anyone out there that has tried used dryer sheets as patches? A buddy of mine used to swear by these; he is no longer with us. I’ve not tried them as I purchased a bulk supply of cotton patches many years ago. They do have an aggressive texture to them.

I tend to use specific products for specific tasks.

Carbon gets a carbon centric remover. The best I have found is Slip 2000 Carbon Cutter. That said…it’s water based and non toxic…which is good but it will create rust if you leave it in place overnight. Generally, I use a bore guide to keep it out of the action…wet bore…brush…wet bore…brush…dry…swab with alcohol patch…dry.


Then, I go after copper. I like Barnes CR10. It works fast, requires no brush, and does a great job. Total wet time not to exceed 15 minutes. I’ve found it works best if you wet patch every 2-3 min, keeping fresh solvent on the copper. After 15 min, dry patch completely, alcohol patch.


Finish with rust prevention lube…break free collector is optimal.

quote:

I tend to use specific products for specific tasks.

ME too. But there are occasions I wonder why no one discovers an easier way or improves on the way they have always done it.

F. Guffey

Best method to get out Carbon is first regular cleaning, and then DRY patching with cotton patches on a fitting brass jag. Short stroking it.

DRY patches, and you can see the Carbon coming out.

I do not do it excessive, I use gun oil on brushes alternatively, to loosen the Carbon. But the dry patches get it OUT.

This method also gets out lead from revolver barrels: the lead is clearly shiny as compared to Carbon.

Hermann

What about Carb-out (from the same company as Wipeout) for carbon removal?

wish i could buy eds red w/out taking a second mortgage to fund it

Since my last post I found a new brand.

Bore Tech.

I cannot speak high enough of their C4 Carbon remover.

It really gets the gunk out, and says, it also contains a rust inhibiting substance. I don´t believe in this latter word. I use it to just clean:

Carbon remover as recommended, then bbl dry wiped, then Copper remover, dry wipe, then preserve barrel with Break Free. Run bore dry next day again, repeat Break Free. Put gun barrel front down, store after one day letting the oil run out.

For Lead bullets in revolvers Rimfire Blend seems promising: it REALLY reduced powder soot from a SAAs nickeled cylinder front! And with just rubbing and a plastic brush! NO brass brushing!

Give it a try.

No, I have no interests personally.

Hermann

Carburettor cleaner for any auto store works great on carbon but will ruin the plastic cover of a cleaning rod and probably synthetic stock and wood stock finish.

quote:

Carburetor cleaner for any auto store works great on carbon but will ruin the plastic cover of a cleaning rod and probably synthetic stock and wood stock finish.

And #7 for most all else.

But damn, that new fangled Wipe Out with Accelerator works good.