When cleaning my bore lately I decided to tackle carbon and copper seperately.I have a Krieger heavy Palma 308 that is doing great and I have been cleaning it like this.first I pass a couple of solvent soaked patches on a jag through the bore.Then I switch to a solvent soaked copper brush-5 or 6 passes is fine-no patch on the brush.I then pass a patch on a jag down the bore and the carbon comes out dark on the patch.I use pro-shot copper and powder solvent.I still have some left from buying about 20 bottles years ago.I like this stuff because it has a little oil inside and therefore I dont need to worry about not oiling.I have stopped using oil in the bores of all my rifles.I am starting to believe that one round through an oily bore can screw up your barrel.
Once I get the carbon out I use JB on a patch on a brush to get out the copper.I then pass a couple of solvent soaked patches on a jag to remove the JB remaining in the bore and then finally I pass a dry patch on a jag or two to remove any solvent.I clean the chamber between the last two steps with a soaked patch on an old 45 cal brush(when cleaning my 308).

What I have learned so far as to barrel life and what determines it most is that barrel heat and barrel steel are the two main factors.That is of course if we shoot a cartridge that is not disastrous to the bore from the beginning and rifles are cleaned without damage.

Go to your local Mercury outboard motor boat dealer and get a can of carbon remover or go to your favorite auto parts store and get a can of the cheaper but just as effective carbon cleaner.

I've used that stuff for years to "get the carbon out" on engine cylinder heads and gun bores...just DON'T GET IT ON YOUR SKIN, BREATH IT OR GET IT ON YOUR RIFLE STOCK.

Keep in mind...you can wear out your bore, throat and muzzle by over cleaning or cleaning wrong, just as fast or faster than shooting hot, hi-velo loads.

quote:

Originally posted by NONAGONAGIN:
Go to your local Mercury outboard motor boat dealer and get a can of carbon remover or go to your favorite auto parts store and get a can of the cheaper but just as effective carbon cleaner.

I've used that stuff for years to "get the carbon out" on engine cylinder heads and gun bores...just DON'T GET IT ON YOUR SKIN, BREATH IT OR GET IT ON YOUR RIFLE STOCK.

Keep in mind...you can wear out your bore, throat and muzzle by over cleaning or cleaning wrong, just as fast or faster than shooting hot, hi-velo loads.

``over cleaning`` What does that mean? I've seen this brought up thousands of times.How in the hell can such a thing be done and how in the world can it ruin your barre?

I hate scrubbing barrels, so here's what I did/d0:

1. Clean barrel down to bare metal with Kroil, Boretech eliminator, and Wipe-out

2. Scrub with nylon brush and JB's
3. Treat bore with Dyna Bore Coat, as per instructions

4. Now it only takes 6-8 patches to get a sparkling clean barrel.

5. I only clean barrel when accuracy starts to erode. This is usually around 200 rounds of a 7mag or 7-08.

quote:

Originally posted by JGRaider:
I hate scrubbing barrels, so here's what I did/d0:

1. Clean barrel down to bare metal with Kroil, Boretech eliminator, and Wipe-out

2. Scrub with nylon brush and JB's
3. Treat bore with Dyna Bore Coat, as per instructions

4. Now it only takes 6-8 patches to get a sparkling clean barrel.

5. I only clean barrel when accuracy starts to erode. This is usually around 200 rounds of a 7mag or 7-08.

what nonsense

Whole thread is ...

I see now why you have such a rep there Shootaway.

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:

what nonsense

It works pretty good......

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nice deer

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:
nice deer

Google Todd Hodnett, probably the premier sniper trainer in the world and read what he says about scrubbing barrels, and how clean they need to be.

quote:

Originally posted by JGRaider:

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:
nice deer

Google Todd Hodnett, probably the premier sniper trainer in the world and read what he says about scrubbing barrels, and how clean they need to be.

Or go to Lilja rifle barrels site and see what Dan has to say about abrasive cleaners. You couldn't be more wrong about cleaning according to a real expert on rifle barrels.

quote:

Originally posted by Pegleg:

quote:

Originally posted by JGRaider:

quote:

Originally posted by shootaway:
nice deer

Google Todd Hodnett, probably the premier sniper trainer in the world and read what he says about scrubbing barrels, and how clean they need to be.

Or go to Lilja rifle barrels site and see what Dan has to say about abrasive cleaners. You couldn't be more wrong about cleaning according to a real expert on rifle barrels.

Maybe you need to do more than just read about it. Hodnett shoots many thousands of rounds per year. He's hardly a rookie.

JG- We are saying the same thing but George can't learn this for some reason.

I am sorry Pegleg, I totally had a brain fart....please accept my apologies. After I reread your post and the link I'm sorry that I made that coment towards you. Shootaway needs the lessons, not you obviously. Once again, sorry about that.

Hodnett and Lilja cant hold a candle to shootaway.

I've been using Marvel Mystery Oil to remove carbon from dirty surplus ammo deposits and it does a pretty good job. If it's good enough for my engines it's good enough for my guns! No need to scrub with abrasives.

GMC carbon remover and Marvels mystery oil mixed half and half.Shake well.

I clean rifle bores when they are new, nearly new, they quit shooting or it rains on them.

Wipeout foam does a good job also. I've used Wipeout and automotive carbon remover alternatively to clean old military weapons with buildups so bad you could hardly see the rifling. Took a week or two of overnight soakings to "get the lead/carbon" out.

My cleaning routine is :
1) push patches soaked in Butch's Bore Shine through the bore until no carbon is showing. Usually about 6 to 8 patches.
2) Let the bore soak about 5 minutes.
3) Push a dry patch through the bore to start the drying process. If there is blue on the patch I finish drying with a couple of more patches and then,
4) I push a patch soaked in Sweets through the bore and let soak no more than 7 minutes. Then a dry patch to check for blue (copper). I do this routine until there is very little or no blue.
5) I then dry the bore with dry patches and then neutralize the Sweets with Marvel Mystery Oil or Kroil oil. I push oiled patches through the bore until no brownish color appears. Then dry the bore again.
6) Then I push a lightly oiled patch through the bore followed by one dry patch.
7) Done

I learned this method benchrest shooting for many years and have carried this method over to my hunting rifles. Works for me.
I have had the same jar of JB for about 20 years and there is still about 1/2 the jar left. I just find I don't need it. You can have to smooth of a bore. It is a proven fact.

quote:

Hodnett and Lilja cant hold a candle to shootaway

Perhaps one of them might hold a candle for you.
It most certainly couldn't hurt your shooting!

Obviously you do not know that there is no mystery in Marvel Mystery Oil. It is largely naptha.

quote:

Originally posted by Bobster:
I've been using Marvel Mystery Oil to remove carbon from dirty surplus ammo deposits and it does a pretty good job. If it's good enough for my engines it's good enough for my guns! No need to scrub with abrasives.

On the contrary, FYI it actually is naptha mixed with mineral spirits a light oil and a lovely fragrance. Perhaps a dash of TCE too. Far less expensive than buying separates and mixing. Plus it works.

quote:

Originally posted by SR4759:
Obviously you do not know that there is no mystery in Marvel Mystery Oil. It is largely naptha.

quote:

Originally posted by Bobster:
I've been using Marvel Mystery Oil to remove carbon from dirty surplus ammo deposits and it does a pretty good job. If it's good enough for my engines it's good enough for my guns! No need to scrub with abrasives.