How do you deal with the wax that gets in places and turns white? This seems to happen in checkering on the stock and also on the matting found on shotgun ribs or sight ramps. I've tried scrubbing with a toothbrush but no luck. Anyone have any tricks?

I think you need a stiffer brush than a toothbrush to remove wax from checkering. I use a bristle brush that works fine in removing wax and dirt from checkering. Whatever you do don't use a metal brush.

use less wax. I use Johnsons wax, you can scrub the white out with a tooth brush and maybe use a just a tad of thinned Linseed on the brush. There are many solutions to that problem and they all work...bottom line is clean it out.

Thanks everyone. I just waxed another stock and this time I used a toothbrush to brush the checkering immediately after applying the wax. This turned out great and brought out the grain below the checkering better than I have ever seen.

As Ray alluded to, just getting the extra 'build up' out of the checkering appears to be the key.

Try Howard Feed and Wax. It makes an oil finished stock look like the oil is still wet and the figure just pops like you may not have seen before on that chunk of lumber.

If you're willing to put up with that; you'll really like the way that there never seems to be any white crusty crap to clean up.

While applying wax don't forget the metal. I've used Johnsons floor wax on the metal parts of my guns for 50 years with good results.

Dave

Try Tree Wax brand floor wax from ACE hardware or Amazon. Apply, wipe off right away and use tooth brush or finger nail brush on checkering. Also makes great release agent for epoxy bedding. I have used this for 30 years on wood and metal. It was Finn Agards favorite metal and wood protection.
Dave

If it turns white just use a hair drier to re-melt it.

A question for you wax users, if the OP doesn'nt mind. I got a BLO finished stock on my rifle and would like to try waxing.

How do you deal with freshening up the oil? Remove the wax somehow, and a touch of oil and wax again?

Hardware stores have some wax remover. Mine came in a bottle with green wax remover, unfortunately Ive had it for many years and the labels worn off...It won't hurt the finish at all, its good stuff, but you'll have to shop, sorry about that.

Tree wax is best, the latest Johnsons I bought is a gooey mess, I do not like it at all..The old stuff was a hard wax, this new stuff is creamy and thinish.....

Anyone used the Ren wax? (Rennaisance?) I have some in the Man Cave but haven't used it yet.

quote:

Originally posted by Dogleg:
Try Howard Feed and Wax.

LOVE this stuff!
I use it on wood and metal. Works great.

quote:

Originally posted by packrattusnongratus:
Anyone used the Ren wax? (Rennaisance?) I have some in the Man Cave but haven't used it yet.

Pretty much all I use anymore. Museum quality, have not had it whiten. You don't need much.

I noticed that too. Stock came out sticky. I'm gonna try some of that Trewax product. They make a marine version and a furniture grade version. Which one you reckon is best for guns?

quote:

Originally posted by Atkinson:
Tree wax is best, the latest Johnsons I bought is a gooey mess, I do not like it at all..The old stuff was a hard wax, this new stuff is creamy and thinish.....

Bobster,
Not sure, but I have the Marine version, have not seen the furniture version at Ace..My guess is the Marine version would be tougher by its very nature of being used on boats..It should be more water proof is an educated guess..I like it so far on wood and metal it worked good in elk camp last year and it was wet and some snow..

Has anyone used the Finishing Wax marketed by Minwax? I've seen a lot of recommendations for Johnson paste wax but this brand is never mentioned.

I use Renaissance Wax on all of my guns and knives. Recommended separately by both a gun and a knife maker years ago. This wax is used by museums and restoration businesses and can be applied to both wood and metal.

years ago i was turning out peppermills on a lathe as had standing orders for as many as i could make. rem wax was all i used after trying lots of others. works great as a release agent when glass bedding rifles too.

I use a combination of wax and orange oil on my wood stocks to protect against water here in the rainy PNW. I've never had a wood stock warp using it. But the stocks all had a good durable finish to begin with.

It penetrates well and doesn't leave any residue on the checkering. I can't however remember the name of the product but there are several brands I'm sure that would work.

I have become a believer in Renaissance wax for my carry guns. Better than a light coat of oil where appropriate.

As for build-up in tight spots, a clean soft toothbrush does the trick for me.

quote:

Originally posted by packrattusnongratus:
Anyone used the Ren wax? (Rennaisance?) I have some in the Man Cave but haven't used it yet.

I have used it on both metal and wood. Good stuff. My gun maker friend told me about it.

I use CArnuba wax a good bit, its made for guns, bothmetal and wood..I suspect one was is as good as the other if the truth was know, its again the application that counts..don't use too much.

Find a new wax that looks like a hard wax like shoe wax consistency, waxy, not a white almost liquid stuff..I think a clear show wax would work but have nottried it other than for glass bedding.

Carnauba/Tree wax is hard to improve on. It is available at hardware stores. The harder wax is best like Ray indicated. Renaissance is excellent.
I use wax on metal finishes and it protects the rust blue finish on classic guns. Also inside the stock
barrel and action channels to guard against
wet climate moisture. I have found the older Stock Slick=Totally Dependable Products to be the best for outside stock protection. RM

Ren wax is sold by Brownells, that tells me its good stuff, they test what they sell..