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I received several guns that were in storage in Washington state. That wet and rain must be hard to keep blue steel clean. Now that the guns are unpacked and need care and cleaning, a few but noticeable small spots of rust need removing. What is the best way to remove very small spots of rust from a fine polished blue steel surface and not harm the blueing? Thanks | ||
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Try Rusteprufe and let it soak a bit first. If that won't take care of it, listen to a 'smith. http://www.eabco.com/store/sho...e-chamois-cloth-kit/ Cheers! _______________________ | |||
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I've always used 0000 steel wool and Hoppes #9. Works for me. Stepchild NRA Life Member | |||
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A friend used to use a fine safety razor blade and, literally, shave them off if they were of the "scab" type. That is place the razor as near FLAT along the surface of the weapon as possible and then literally shave the rust spot off. | |||
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You are going to think I am completely nuts, but if the rust is just on the surface, try crumpling up newspaper and rubbing briskly on the firearms. I think you will be amazed at what it does without harming the remaining bluing... | |||
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Just use OOOO steel wool.and oil. | |||
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Bronze wool and ATF. | |||
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That is one of the MOST SENSIBLE suggestions I have come across in a while. Please, PLEEEESE keep away from hard scrubbing & scraping aides steel wool, wire brush, 3M scrub pad etc. if you want to protect fine condition guns that are in very good shape except for the odd spot. (No problems with working guns.) To add to this great piece of advise, just add a few drops of Break Free CLP and let it soak & then rub with soft cloth or a paper towel. The soaking will lift the rust and the rubbing will remove it. If the rust has gone a bit deep, Break Free will leave a tiny shiny spot where the rust has exposed the metal. Any common touch up blue will cover that (after you degrease the spot with a swab of alcohol.)
"When the wind stops....start rowing. When the wind starts, get the sail up quick." | |||
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Frog Lube! Wonderful stuff! Robert If we can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people, under the pretense of taking care of them, they must become happy. Thomas Jefferson, 1802 | |||
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Gent who works for a very large gun store in N. California that works on guns, restoration and etc., once posted on another gun forum, "use the edge of a nickel coin to scrape on the rust." Said, metal in a nickel was soft and would not hurt the metal/blue around the rust, but did a good job of dealing with rust." Of course, he applied some kind of oil to the rust before using the nickel coin. Never did read if it was an old nickel coin or one of the newer ones. Anyway, when I have to deal with some rust, prefer to grab my tube of Blue Wonder cleaner and apply it to the rust, let it set for awhile and then remove it....might use some very fine steel wool, but certainly do not apply any pressure to it when wiping off the the Blue Wonder....just depends on how bad the rust is. And yes, I have tried the nickel coin with good results. Good thing about the Blue Wonder cleaner, its a nice bore cleaner too and does not harm gun blue. It deals nicely with rust. | |||
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One of the few benefits of endlessly reading online firearms forums is occasionally you find a real gem of knowledge. I read about Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner and thought it might be a hoax, but it was cheap so I bought some. Six months later, I pulled a very nice custom 1903 out of its case to find rust forming all over the bottom metal. Had heard the Frontier metal cleaner would remove rust and not hurt the underlying finish - cerakote, bluing, whatever. I tried it and was amazed. Took all the rust off and was amazed at how the underlying finish was not impacted. Highly recommend. Can find it on Amazon and ebay - about $6. | |||
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0000 steel wool and 30W motor oil works and doesn't hurt the blue. | |||
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I've done something similar only using the mouth of a brass .22LR case flattened out. Soak the rust good with oil then scrape it off with the .22 case then use copper solvent to remove any brass that is left behind. | |||
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I use stainless steel wool pads with oil. Works great and doesn't scratch the blue. A friend who collects old guns told me about these pads. He learned this trick from a gunsmith. At first I was apprehensive about the stainless steel, but I gave it a try on an old gun with quite a bit of light rust and it worked great. http://www.webstaurantstore.co...fKicECFaNj7AodlCgA_A Tom Z NRA Life Member | |||
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Similarly, I have used a penny to remove rust spots after soaking them with oil. A penny won't mar the surrounding blue. For more extensive rust, I use bronze wool. As a note, the rust itself is an abrasive, so it is important to keep whatever you are using to remove it clean. Remove a little rust, clean the bronze wool, penny, etc, remove a little more rust and clean again... I do a lot of hunting in salt marshes and rust is something I have had to learn to deal with. JPK Free 500grains | |||
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Great advice to use oil and fine steel or SS wool. When done, steam the cleaned areas in live steam from a kettle or pot of vigorously boiling water for about 5 minutes. This will convert the remaining red rust in the metal pores to black rust and neutralize it. Oil with ATF mixed with a dash of acetone. Bob www.rustblue.com | |||
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I have found a brush with brass bristles to be quite effective in removing the top layer and should there be any traces left after some vigorous brushing which will not affect the blueing, a gentle application of super fine wire wool soaked in oil tends to do the trick. However said and done, beware of rust reappearing in these same areas if lubrication is allowed to dry while in storage. | |||
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Bear grease, WD-40 or whatever and 0000 steel wool is about the only thing that works and still leaves the blue prestine...0000 steel wool does not remove blue, that is why gunsmiths use it in blueing operations, even rust blue operations. Ray Atkinson Atkinson Hunting Adventures 10 Ward Lane, Filer, Idaho, 83328 208-731-4120 rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com | |||
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