I’ve used WD-40 for years. Lately I’ve noticed the aerosol runs out long before the lubricant.

I bought a can yesterday at a self service checkout, and the store clerk had to verify that I was over 18.

Apparently the idiot younger generation sniff it to get high.

Maybe that’s why my cans of WD-40 run out of aerosol. Idiots are sniffing it in the stores.

Anyone else know of this?

BH63

Back in the 80s when coke was all the rage I was in the auto parts biz, young guy came in, got a couple cans of starting fluid off the shelf and brought them to the counter.

"Anything else ? , I asked".

His question, "Can I use this for free basing ?"

Seriously.

WD 40 is a water displacement, thus while giving a good lubrication it will also allow rust to occur shortly thereafter. I swear by KroilOil. Brownell's sells it but you can also buy direct. The beauty of this product is that does it not gum but it breaks down to 1/ millionth of a particle. We use it not only as a general lubricant but also to apply to shafts that have a frozen motor on them. Left overnight the shaft is lubed. Obviously I am/was in the HVAC industry, so that final comment on the "druggie" recalled a memory. When I was at the AC. supply house I noticed that they had a telescoping pocket clipped alligator clip to use for lighting furnaces. You get the idea. You clip a match the extend it under the furnace or hot water heater + then put on the gas with THIS time not getting your arm burned. Well, that was a neat idea,one doesn't have to crawl so far to light the gas unit. The sales rep. said you had better buy them at cause some hippie don on the rag comes here every day + buys out the stock. Oh yeah, I get it; telescoping roach clips + they were selling like hotcakes.

As an additional addendum concerning the loss of propellant VIS company mischief. I use the Kroil oil aerosol + I can't use it fast enough before the propellant goes 1st. Realistically I have found that my need for the actual lubricant far exceeds the need of a propellant. I have taken to buying the smaller cans as it is cheaper in the long run.

If you live in arid SW like Texas, New Mexico, Arizona, So. California, WD-40 works great. Ive used it for my 84 years without any rusting at all..why would I change that...I used it in South Texas without complaints, but I check my guns regulary, that's the secret to any rust problems with guns, Maintenace! For that matter I used Hoppes for years growing up, so did the rest of the shooting world..

WD-40 builds up a varnish like residue which can jam up moving parts and it also is a penetrant and can effect primers and powder. I stopped using it on guns many years ago!

Hip

I still use Hoppes #9. Along with doing a good job, it seems to help cure headaches. Go figure. My ex-wife liked the smell so much she said they ought to make a scented aftershave.

Hipshoot, Plus 10!

To answer your question, I also had 2 cans, mail order, that ran out of propellant before the product ran out. Not sure why.

WD-40 has had the best marketing in the history of the industrial world. It is not a cleaner, it is not a lubricant. It is a water displacing oil. Nearly the only correct use of it involving guns is either right after parkerizing or to hose off interior mechanisms like triggers after they get rained on. But you best get it off and then lubricate / rust protect with a proper product immediately after.

The best use I have found for WD-40 is getting cockle burrs out of horses manes and tails.

WD-40 has it uses use it with it the correctly.

It does a good job.


I tripped and me and my sav. 99 got submerged.
took it home. placed it muzzle down soaked it down with wd.

Back hunting a hour or so later.

quote:

Originally posted by NormanConquest:
I still use Hoppes #9. Along with doing a good job, it seems to help cure headaches. Go figure. My ex-wife liked the smell so much she said they ought to make a scented aftershave.

My exact experience too.

I use it to treat pinkeye in my cattle. Treat with proper medicine and spray into ulcered eye then cover. Works great. It's decent on ringworm as well, bovine or human.

I use it in my antique black powder rifles to displace water in pits and cracks in the bore after removing fouling with water. This is followed with dry patches and a proper bore oil or grease

There's a lot of products out there that are repackaged for other uses. I oo case in point iM.e.K. (Methyl Ethyl Keytone). It used as a degreaser. I buy all my chemicals by the gallon at Capital Scientific. Acids, etc. a gallon of MEK does for under $10.00. It is rebottled in little glass bottles + sold as nail polish remover. Your wives might like that hint.

Hmmm, I wonder how long a gallon of nail polish remover would last.

Dave

quote:

Originally posted by bradhe:

WD-40 has had the best marketing in the history of the industrial world. It is not a cleaner, it is not a lubricant. It is a water displacing oil. Nearly the only correct use of it involving guns is either right after parkerizing or to hose off interior mechanisms like triggers after they get rained on. But you best get it off and then lubricate / rust protect with a proper product immediately after.

+1

WD-40 is also useful (and inexpensive enough) for flushing ammonia based copper solvents from the bore. But after flushing, patch the bore dry, then use Eezox, OneShot, GunSeal, or Rust Prevent for storage.

Several rust tests have shown that WD-40 Specialist Long-Term Corrosion Inhibitor is effective as a rust inhibitor. Not sure I would want the stuff to migrate into the action however.

Dave, a helluva lot longer than those little bottles at a fraction of the cost.

Another one that does the same job is 111 Trichlorothene. Also useful for removing tacky tape residue or off the shoe polish on windshields of cars for sale, etc.

quote:

Originally posted by NormanConquest:
There's a lot of products out there that are repackaged for other uses. I oo case in point iM.e.K. (Methyl Ethyl Keytone). It used as a degreaser. I buy all my chemicals by the gallon at Capital Scientific. Acids, etc. a gallon of MEK does for under $10.00. It is rebottled in little glass bottles + sold as nail polish remover. Your wives might like that hint.

MEK is bad stuff! I think nail polish remover is actually acetone. Huge difference, read an MSDS on MEK sometime.

quote:

Originally posted by JTEX:
.......MEK is bad stuff! I think nail polish remover is actually acetone. Huge difference, read an MSDS on MEK sometime.

+1
MEK is really something to take seriousy.

Nail polish remover is Acetone with some added "ladies grade' skin softener.

You're right. I was working off 30 year old memory,not good. Ethanol works great, but yes MEK is a good degreaser but not good for skin contact. Sorry for a misleading post.

my guns never sit long enough to rust, I mess with them on almost a daily basis if nothing more than practice dry firing 5 or 6 times offhand..I know WD-40 will coat a gun with a varnish like finish if put on heavy and left there, guns shows are full of them. I apply DW-40 and wipe it dry...I also realize there are better metal protectors out there, but never take them for granite as nothing "prevents" rust other than maintence..