I have factory M-700 triggers in mind, but would like input on how best to degunk, remove moisture, and clean any trigger group that shrouds the pins and parts. Another example would be a WBY Mk5.

I can deal with ARs, old-style M-70 triggers, and most detachable group shotgun triggers as the small parts/pins/springs can be pretty well accessed with Q-tips and CLP.

Also, I am ham-handed - more qualified to manage 3/4" drive wrenches and chainsaws than tiny drivers - so I'm not looking to disassemble these trigger groups.

The obvious answer would be something like Brake-cleaner/gun scrubber, ie., volatile solvents. But I worry about failure to adequately reach bare metal areas on the relube with resulting friction wear and failure to function (naturally, at the worst possible time).

So I'm wondering if something less volatile, like Kroil, would be a better solvent?

Appreciate your thoughts on this.

Sam

One of the best products I have found for this use is the Hornady One Shot Gun Cleansr & Gun Lube.

It cleans like Gun Scrubber, but it leaves a Dry Lube behind, with no oily mess.

I use it a lot. Sometimes I will spray the inside of the gun with aresol Break Free, or Ballistol, and let it soak for a while.

Then i will spray it out with Birchwood Casery Gun scurbber, which removes all the other solvents ande the gunk the other solvents have removed.
I then shake it dry and spray, it with the Hornady Gun Cleanser & Lube.

I call this a complete Whore Bath.

I do not have to take the gun appart, and thus do not increase wear or loose any small parts.

Also if I hunt with a gun in the rain, or otherwise get it totally wet, then I spray it down with Break Free or WD 40, let is soak, then spray it with Gunscrubber, shake it dry and then use the Hornady product.

Been doing this for years, never had a gun rust or any functioning problems.

When I am traveling and space/weight is at a premium I just start and finish with the Hornady product.

Just be careful of using any product on Plastic gun parts...

Thank you! Will give the Hornady One Shot a try. Sam

I agree with One Shot 100%. Also use spray Rem-oil on some take out trigger groups.

I have gone to taking them out of the action and putting them in a Sonic Cleaner. The solution is warmed by the cleaner and gets them squeeky clean in about 9 minutes or less. I also found out that it doesn't do well with the 40x triggers but the standard m700 or Timney, it gets everything out of it that doesn't belong there. Then I spray the trigger group with MilComm Lock Saver that gets rid of the moisture and leaves a light coat of lubricant inside the trigger group. Best way I've found yet.

I'll probably be flamed for this, but,
I've used WD 40 or Kroil oil for cleaning
triggers for many years.
No! D40 will not GUM.
I've used WD 40 to clean gummy oils from my trigger, mostly, Break Free.
WD 40 and Kroil Oil being thin cleans trigger
groups very nicely.

One time the Break Free I had used gummed
the hammer on my revolver so badly that the
hammer fell very slowly, I used WD 40 to
clean it, by squirting it down the hammer area
and it returned to normal hammer fall.
It's a good cleaner for triggers as would be
Kerosene.
Don

WD-40 is made to lift water of metal and it does that great. It's a decent solvent so it cleans gunk pretty well but it's not much of a lube or long term rust protector - several weeks at best.

WD-40 does contain solids that remain when the carrier dries in a few weeks and leaves a varnish like layer that will build over time if no effort is made to remove it; that varnish makes it one of the worst possible "lubes" for enclosed trigger groups or small machines like fan motors, typewriters and clock works.

Spray clean a trigger group with any low cost cleaner. I use Walmart's carborator cleaner with a red plastic tube to stick in every hole and crack. When the drainage runs clean I set it aside to dry a couple of hours so solvent in the cracks won't harm the incoming oil.

I oil triggers by painting a good wash of Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) all around the trigger housing to insure internal coverage and let it sit an hour or so to drain the excess oil before reassembly.

ATF is inexpensive and easy to find. It's a very good light oil, it has excellant film strength to resist rusting, it dries vey slowly and when it does dry (as all liquids eventually do) it does so without leaving a residue as most other oils do.

I am convienced the true cause of "malfunctioning safeties" in Rem 700 triggers is oil gumming the sear mechanism; if not from WD-40 then another oil that leaves a varnish. An annual cleaning and oiling as described above will insure proper operation of any trigger system.

I was on the phone with Mr. Jewell, Jewell Triggers, last week. He affirmed my years'- long practice: Wash with lighter fluid, air dry or blow. I don't think you can get more authoritative than that.

Not sure what lighter fluid actually is. Probably available a lot cheaper in generic form.

quote:

Not sure what lighter fluid actually is. Probably available a lot cheaper in generic form.

It's mostly Naptha, but Carb or Brake Cleaner does a better job.

You could also use Acetone, which is fingernail polish remover

The thing about lighter fluid is that it leaves a little bit of lubricant behind.
It works great on target rifles, and other rifles that see what I call "light duty" in regards to bad weather, and a lot of dust, dirt and etc.

The thing about a spray is, that it forces out all the water and dirt/mud, that might be in the trigger group.

You just have to be careful about plastic gun parts and stock finishes with some of the sprays.

+1 on the lighter fluid.

I have observed this on both Rem 700 and 788 rifles that have been cleaned with Hoppes #9 and Bright Bore solvents. The stuff slowly drains out of the bore and by capillary action wets the trigger. Eventually you wind up with something that looks like bees wax in the triggers.

quote:

I am convienced the true cause of "malfunctioning safeties" in Rem 700 triggers is oil gumming the sear mechanism; if not from WD-40 then another oil that leaves a varnish.

Apart from totally taking apart ( ahem ;-)) the gun / trigger group, I like RIG 2!

In spray, or refillable pump spray, kind of oil.

Spray, let excess and Gunk run down, wipe surfaces, done.

It leaves a very thin film, and protects from rust.

I also do this to Polymer ( read: Glock ) thingies.

;-)

Hermann

I just disassemble the trigger and clean in fresh stoddard solvent (mineral spirits paint thinner). It leaves no residue and very dry (rust will happen without protection)
I then use a 50/50 mix of kerosine and ATF (my only gun and penetrating oil) to lay a thin film on all the pieces using a soft cotton cloth. I then place less than a drop of the oil (I use a syringe I made) on all the sliding, rubbing and rotating parts. I reassemble and get back to shooting.

I have been a machinist too long to trust anything that you spray on an enclosed box to clean and lubricate the parts inside properly. If it can be disassembled then it should be. Over lubricating is worse than not enough.It collects dust and grit that becomes a grinding compound that will wear the parts and unless you take it apart you will never know.

Do what you believe is right.