Well, I've recently become enamored with WipeOut foam which I squirt into the bore after running a couple of patches saturated with Accelerator through it.

I then retire for the evening with a good IPA and deal with things in the AM.

Before I learned that it only takes a couple of very quick squirts of WO, I had foam all over the place. Yuk!

It seems to work like magic. But I did not expect to see brown, rust-colored $hit on my patch when I got below the copper. I thought my barrel had rusted . . . but a quick search on the web told me that the brown stuff was carbon. Problem solved.

It usually takes me 2 repetitions of my protocol to end up where I want to be, but almost zero elbow grease. I just fill the bore, enjoy my ale and return in the morning to repeat the process.

Don't have any Big Bores, but on my rifles I use Hoppe's No. 9 and Break Free foam for anything heavy. With the Hoppe's I soak and leave it overnight then bronze brush and patch.

The one I use most is Warthog 1134TM which I don't think you can get anymore, I also use Sweets 7.62 Solvent.
Both works fantastic on copper with no scrubbing.

Steve.........

Anyone tried c2r copper & carbon remover?

I read a review that it is better than Wipeout. KG12 came 3rd.

Naki,
Do you have a copy of the review you could post ? Wouldn't mind reading that.
Cheers

Takes a while to learn HOW to use Wipe-out without getting a mess...I use a bore guide on one end, the Wipe-out plastic tube down the guide, and I cut off the neck of a small soda bottle(to fit over the front sight) and stuffed a blue shop towel inside the bottle...just hang it on the barrel and squirt until the foam just starts to exit the barrel...that way you KNOW the barrel is full. The towel catches the excess...you can leave it like that for days. So far NO MESSES.

Like everything else you have to learn as you go.

Good Hunting

Sorry mate, just googled and found it random.

BTW - I solved my problem with removing copper fouling from my 470 NE.

I have used Wipeout + Accellerator for the last 10+ years and had great results. With the 470NE I was having to clean it 4 or 5 times and 3 over night soaks & JB scrub. I was getting fed up cleaning after each range shoot of 20 shots.

I was using a cotton patch and noticed that the Wipeout inside the boar was not forming suds. So I changed to a black bristle brush and same amount of solvent. Scrubbed it briefly to foam up suds and left it overnight.

Next day I just pushed one patch through and got a huge sludge of blue. After another patch and a spray of CRC the bore was CLEAN. Another round of Wipeout showed no more blue!

The bristle brush just keeps a lot more of the solvent inside the bore. Problem solve.

I later read somewhere that the Wipeout people recommend using a brush! The bottle suggests using a patch!

quote:

Originally posted by 30.06king:
Naki,
Do you have a copy of the review you could post ? Wouldn't mind reading that.
Cheers

this might have some useful information -

http://www.frfrogspad.com/cleaners.htm

Thanks Muzza.
It was a good read.

KG12 - Accept no substitutes.

Finally got a Hawkeye Borescope. After 10+ years of saying I was going to get one.

The KG12 is a great product. I have a late 80's Browning A-Bolt that I have never been able to get good accuracy out of it. After the suggestions on here I did a thorough cleaning on it with the KG12 and got the bore to like new condition. No fouling. Unfortunately there is a 6" or so long strip of lands that is pitted. I am going to look into getting the barrel replaced by a gunsmith in Texas.

The Borescope would have helped with knowing about the pitting issue before now...but it does show that there is no fouling in the barrel. We shooters have access to great cleaning products. I am going to start pulling rifles out one at a time to check for fouling so I can do more cleaning tests.

Justin

Where is the 6 inches of mild pitting? If it is the chamber end of the barrel, you may be able to improve accuracy by fire lapping a few shots. 5 shots will remove the sharp edges and not take out too much metal. Not need to go through the full fire lapping regime. All you need it to roll the bullets in 120 240 grit. Can be done with normal jacketed bullets too. No absolutely necessary to use cast lead bullets.

Performed a small test last night with Shooter's Choice MC7. I have a Rem 700 7mm RM that is copper fouled like a cinnamon roll.

Soaked a patch in Shooters choice and used a pick to push the tight fitting patch into the end of the barrel. Let it sit overnight and checked it this morning and the section of barrel that the patch sat in is clean! Still carbon fouled in the lands but the copper is gone.

Shooters Choice still impresses me each time I use it. Although I still open the bottle of Hoppe's #9 just to bring the scent in on the action

Wipeout with Accellerator. Use a fibre brush to get the foam and leave over night for best results.

Use Sweets if you want your bore to develop microscopic pits! The ammonia just leaches the vanadium, chromium etc from the steel. If you leave Sweets in a shiny bore for too long the bore will end up looking dull.

quote:

Originally posted by craigster:

quote:

Originally posted by Atkinson:
Whipe Out....

If I get a bad bore gun like a double rifle or old collectable Win. that's really ugly I will use my stash of "Blue Goop", and old bench restors recipe...One quart of 25% commercial Amonia, one cup of Hydrogen Peroxide, and toss in a copper bullet or penny to turn the mixture blue if you must...Don't leave this stuff in the bore more than 20 minutes, wipe out dry and oil profusely when done..pay attention.

Ray, let me ask again, why the penny ?

There's metallic copper, then there's a copper ion with one charge, and a copper ion with two charges. Copper in an ion state is soluble. The penny enhances the formation of the copper ions that have two charges. A double charged ion more easily changes metallic copper into a single charged ion form of copper, thus speeding dissolving of the metallic copper. Make sense?
I've got a batch of BG brewing as we speak.

If I follow directions I don't see how Blue Goop can do any harm. With shipping, some of the solvents mentioned here would run over $30. I have the ingredients for BG in my bathroom closet.
Reloading is all about being independent. Why not use BG? Where's your pioneering spirit?

quote:

Originally posted by NONAGONAGIN:
Takes a while to learn HOW to use Wipe-out without getting a mess...I use a bore guide on one end, the Wipe-out plastic tube down the guide, and I cut off the neck of a small soda bottle(to fit over the front sight) and stuffed a blue shop towel inside the bottle...just hang it on the barrel and squirt until the foam just starts to exit the barrel...that way you KNOW the barrel is full. The towel catches the excess...you can leave it like that for days. So far NO MESSES.

Like everything else you have to learn as you go.

Good Hunting

I got tired of foam going everywhere so built a nipple out of some aluminum on the lathe that will fit anything from 22 up to 40 cal. Cut a piece of 1/4 in clear tubing and no more mess. I place a paper towel in the chamber and slowly add foam until it is full. Cram the towl in the chamber and let it sit. No more messes.

Craigster,
You have received many answer, but in fact its nothing more than turning the goop blue to look more like bore cleaner, its serves no actual purpose at all, the old timers just did it for self satisfaction!! I do it sometimes so I don't get it mixed up with my gin or drinking water!

The mix works as well clear btw...strong stuff and use with care as it will eat steel just leave it in the bore 15 minutes and wipe dry, repeat as needed, I run a alcohol patch when clean then oil profusely and store, patch out before you shoot then fire some fouling shots..

Its less work than scrubbing with Kroil and JB compound, However Ive seen some smoke poles and double rifles that it took both to clean them to one degree or another..

Cleaning a very filthy Browning BLR this evening with PatchOut and it is working like a gem as well. This is another great product that claims to be safe on metals. I know many users on here have this on their bench.

I am not a fan of seeing a nice rifle with a golden barrel at the muzzle but I enjoy watching it dissolve and disappear with the cleaning solvents!

Cleaning rifles this AM after seven days of sage rat shooting. Using Otis copper remover. First time I've tried it, the stuff really works !

I use Kroiloil w/ 4X (super fine) valve lapping compound. I also use the oil mixed with thread cutting oil to do my bolt jeweling as well as the use in seating the lugs in a 98 action.BTW the Kroiloil will displace to 1/100,000,000. We use in in the industry to free fans,etc. from motor shafts.+ other uses.You get the point. It's a great penetrant + lubricater.You can contact the factory but Brownell's sells it as well.

This forum has been blessed with extremely knowledgeable posters. I learn something new on every visit. In fact, the best knowledge I've learned has come from other hunters/shooters/loaders who've graciously shared what they know with those of us lacking what we should know.

I had always figured that copper solvent was generic. One was as good as the other. I used to use Sweets 7.62. Then I picked up a can of Montana copper solvent. I do have a small bottle of Shooters Choice copper solvent due to its convenient size. I can pack it in a small range bag for Rocky Mountain trips.

This is the first I've learned of KG-12. If knowledgeable posters here think highly of it, that means I'll have to pick up a bottle.

Here's what I don't know (in reality, I don't know far more that what I oughta know): what is the shelf life of copper solvent? I have some that has to be 10 years old. Should I replace it?

Another thing I've learned the expensive way: I'm no longer gonna fork over big $$$ for quantity. 4 ounces of copper solvent will last for years.

I have found that soaks with Wipeout, alternating with bronze brushing with Break Free, have made a real dent in the copper/cupronickel fouling in a Krag made in 1903.

Along the same line kinda,+ I assume everyone here knows this but I'm gonna mention it anyway. The use of regular oil on your bolt in freezing conditions will do just that.One never needs a firing pin frozen.Strip your bolt + use Singer sewing machine oil'it does'nt freeze.

I use Bore Tech copper remover and when the patches no longer come out blue, it't time to wipe the bore with one patch wet with white vinegar, because while Ammonia is effective against Copper it does just as much damage to Nickel and vinegar neutralizes Ammonia.

Then dry patches (2-4) followed by oiled ones.

I lubricate my rifle bolt's internal parts and triggers with "LAW" (Lubricant, Arctic Weapons) military gun oil.
If you cannot get this use Marvel Mystery Oil it is effectively the same stuff.

After straying away from JB and using Wipe-Out and other foam cleaners I learned that nothing cleans like JB on a patch wrapped around a copper brush.I let my Lotts go a few rounds cleaning with only foam cleaners and solvent and they stopped shooting at 100yds-could not hit the target.JB brought them back and they now shoot fine.Foam cleaners cannot remove the accumulating layers of burnt on carbon fouling.

Im sorry Craigster, I just now returned to the thread for reasons unknown..

To answer your question, the bullet or penny is not required, the old timers said if the penny turned the liquid blue then you knew it was working???? Ive tried it both ways and it works the same of course..Oh yeah, you could give it a cool name like "Blue Goop" if it was the color of water, and maybe its to keep someone from taking a shot of it or mixing it with their Jack Daniels, who knows?

Wipe out is as good as anything else for removing copper...Its not necessary or advisable to get a bore squeaky clean, the use of a rod should be careful and very little IMO..More bores have been ruined by cleaning than shooting..

This Wipe-Out/Patch Out stuff is great. Here we are years later and still working like a champ.

I enjoy getting the borescope out and seeing that a product is working. Patch Out is a great product.