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Originally posted by 1buba:
I'm kind of like one of them Savage varmint guns... Not much good if ya have anything else, but not bad in a pinch. (ducking and running) <VBG>

Thanks,
steve

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Hey Steve
You giving my Savage 22 Hornet a shot ?
Just figured that I should defend it's honor it shoots better than you think, even if it's not the top shelf !
Rich Jake

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Originally posted by 1buba:
Listen Coon bone...
I don't need no more temptation, see... I was almost happy that Mike couldn't do anymore work right now. He still has two of my barrels and it's saving me money while they relax in his shop. :-)

Now just BACK OFF!!!

Malm,
Please say something like "cold day in hell..."

Thanks,
steve

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Good thing you told me that Steve. I was just gettin ready to send ya an e-mail and see if you wanted to buy my like new VVCG 20" bull in 6x45[6x223] with dies, brass and bullets. Wow! Good thing I didn't.

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Originally posted by jsh:
Malm, I am lurking in the back ground here also. I have a factory TC 22 Match new unfired waiting for a rechamber to 22 mag. Yes new and unfired, I am afraid to shoot it as I might change my mind about the rechamber and have to find another barrel for the chore!
How much do you charge for that, and might as well do a crown job as well while you have it??

You may have bitten off more than you can chew with this bunch here?? LOL
Jeff

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Jeff,
You may just want to keep that Match barrel the way it is. It may be a great shooter. I was going to get a Match barrel and do the same as you. But after I talked to Mike and Sean, I got a plane used Super 14 22LR for $145. Had Mike turn it into a 22mag and it shoots 1 hole groups at 50yds and 20 shot groups at 100 that you can cover with a quarter. And that's with a 2x6 scope.

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Originally posted by jsh:
Jules, already have a 10" SS match barrel and another 10" blue standard 22. Also have an Anshutz Exemplar that will do better than I can. No 22mag, long story on this 14" match but it is gonna be a 22 mag one way or the other.
Jeff

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I didn't know that Jeff. That said, by all means, Go for it.

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Originally posted by Jules:
[QUOTE] I was going to get a Match barrel and do the same as you. But after I talked to Mike and Sean, I got a plane used Super 14 22LR for $145. Had Mike turn it into a 22mag and it shoots 1 hole groups at 50yds and 20 shot groups at 100 that you can cover with a quarter. And that's with a 2x6 scope.

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Jules,

This is quite correct! Also FYI, Mike does not chamber these 22mag conversions with a standard SAMMI spec reamer, but rather has his own unique process for doing these chambers, which I will let him explain in more detail. It is important not to use the SAMMI chamber reamer with the "forcing cone" throat.

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Originally posted by Jules:
Hi Malm,
Are you going to be doing the Contender and Encore chambers and rechambers for us while Mike is busy makin his own barrels? Are you set up to do the matte finish on them.
Now for the tough one. What kinda turn around time on your rechambers?

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Malm is welcome to take up the slack on the chamber work, and I have invited him to discuss individual jobs with me so he will know better what you have come to expect from my work.

Repeating myself, I do not want to be sitting on a backlog of work, especially with the strong possibility that I may not be able to do shop work for potentially a significant period of time. Keeping short accounts will continue to be a strong motivating factor in many of the decisions being made.

There is a lot more rechambering work to be done than I can handle in the first place, and in the second place, I want to focus on custom barrels I can complete and then make available for sale for immediate shipment. THEN..... Ole Coon Bone will have to complain that I am not making the barrel he wants instead of not getting to his rechamber job.

THE Heretic

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Originally posted by Mike Bellm:

quote:

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Originally posted by Jules:
Hi Malm,
Are you going to be doing the Contender and Encore chambers and rechambers for us while Mike is busy makin his own barrels? Are you set up to do the matte finish on them.
Now for the tough one. What kinda turn around time on your rechambers?

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Malm is welcome to take up the slack on the chamber work, and I have invited him to discuss individual jobs with me so he will know better what you have come to expect from my work.

Repeating myself, I do not want to be sitting on a backlog of work, especially with the strong possibility that I may not be able to do shop work for potentially a significant period of time. Keeping short accounts will continue to be a strong motivating factor in many of the decisions being made.

There is a lot more rechambering work to be done than I can handle in the first place, and in the second place, I want to focus on custom barrels I can complete and then make available for sale for immediate shipment. THEN..... Ole Coon Bone will have to complain that I am not making the barrel he wants instead of not getting to his rechamber job.

THE Heretic

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Ha,Ha,Ha,Ha...Who....me? I never complain

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Originally posted by G.Malmborg:
Jeff,

I am pretty sure we do...

Malm

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Malm, leave about .025" case/neck end clearance on the reamer, then grind off anything in front of that, except the pilot of course.

Stake the extractor in place so it will not move around and grap the reamer. You need a close fit of extractor and case head with the rimfires.]

Make sure you have some idea what the barrel to frame gap is, either from checking on a shop frame or better, checking on their frame.

Dial in off of the bore itself when you set it up in the lathe. Due to curvature in the bores of many barrels, you may not be able to get a true total indicator reading of less than about .002," but this is a quantum improvement over the .010 to .020" runout between the bores and factory chambers common to many of the barrels.

Cut the chamber to depth allowing some for frame to frame variation in gap.... about .003."

With most barrels, having the case head come dead flush with the end of the barrel is good. If the gap is more than .003 or .004," then leave the case head sticking out about .001 to .002." I assume you want their frame in hand when you cut their chamber, right?

Then you can either throat at .224" diameter with some light rifling contact on loaded ammo supplied, or run the throat reamer in for a total travel of about .1." Note the order of magnitude indicated. I used to go in about .125," but cut it back to .1" and have done some shorter than this. Total distance also depends on the actual profile your throat reamer cuts. Check it against some sample ammo. Ie., go in perhaps .050," then check to see how far the loaded ammo sticks out. Proceed to cut that additional distance. Leaving a little clearance is ok, probably preferred over hard contact with the rifling. It appears to me that anytime the breechface is impinging on the case head, you stand a good chance of running into problems with any chamber & ammo combination.

While we are talking about grinding things off.... now is a good time to mention that most all chamber reamers have the flutes running forward of the throat area. If the reamer in this arear between throat and pilot is anywhere NEAR bore diameter, the flutes pick up chips and chew up the tops of the rifling. You will probably never notice it normally, but with the borescope, it stands out big time!

I have never set up an oil feed through the headstock spindle, but this is a good cure for chips getting between the neck or throat area and the pilot and chewing things up.

Hey, unless you have pilot bushings on all your reamers, I'll bet you have at least one reamer that has the flutes cut all the way up into the full diameter of the pilot itself..... just waiting to catch a chip and chew up the tops of the rifling.

Whether you do it exactly like I do or not, the big thing is to get away from the cone arrangement and substitute a throat instead, preferrably with a long leade angle around 1 1/2 degree or less and an actual diameter no bigger than about .2242."

Keeping the throat diameter minimum and lining it up with the bore are crucial for making any chamber shoot its best.

There you have it for all the world to see.

Ream away, a ream away.... the lion sleeps tonight. Ooops. Not quite right.

Mike

PS: Tip for the day. Instead of using a depth mike to measure how far the case sticks out of the chamber, put your dial indicator stand on the cross feed and run the indicator across the case head and barrel. Of course, if you went too deep and the case head is much below the end of the barrel, guess what? You still have that box of D-Con handy, right? Another hint, one to be avoided if possible, but if you make a mistake, you can peen the edge of the mouth of the chamber with a smoothly rounded punch and move the case head back about .003" to save your butt.... and the job.

[ 10-25-2002, 10:46: Message edited by: Mike Bellm ]

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Originally posted by G.Malmborg:
Thanks for the tip, but since I don't make mistakes, there is no need to peen, shim or otherwise mouse it up... Of course, if I do the job, I will want their frame, this way there is no guessing.

Malm

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