Does anyone have information as to making 30-30 brass from brass other than 30-30. I read somewhere that 30-30 brass can be formed from 375 Winchester brass. Also, by how much would you change your loading data from the standard 30-30 brass.

Huh? I must be missing somthing.
Jeff

About ten years ago i brought a die from IHMSA that form 375 win. brass to 30/30 than i ran the formed 30/30 brass through my 7x30 WATERS die and out came a perfect formed 7x30 brass that usually is formed from a standard 30/30 Win. brass. I still have some of the formed brass. and the die somewhere in my reloading room.Excuse the rambling hope i didn't confuse you but yes you can form 375 WIN. BRASS TO 30/30 BRASS. BIGMAC

Should be able to run it thru a 30-30 size die and set the shoulder where it needs to be. I use it all the time for 7-30 Waters brass.
FYI I weighed several samples of .375 Win brass and 30-30 brass.
got 147 Gr. for 30-30
got 154 Gr. for .375
for averages so I would back off your starting loads accordingly.

With the availability and price on 30-30 brass why make your own? I could see maybe, and I say maybe a little gain using 375 Winchester brass to make 30-30 WCF. But why go to the trouble? When I first got my 7-30 Waters a few years back, several folks had me believing the 30-30 WCF cases were weak. Well I have 5 loadings on 25 pieces that are full throttle loads and have had no problems yet. Yes the are growing and I will probably pitch them after this, but I have some 375 Winchesters and some factory Fed. 7-30 brass that doesn't look any better.
What ever keeps a fellow happy I guess.
Jeff

I have to agree with Jeff. You may see a slight benefit in loads that are truly hot-rodded, but you can't do this (not safely, at least!) in a Contender anyway. The 30-30 brass that I have used has worked just fine -- and it is very inexpensive.

I'm with the rest. WHY? 30-30 brass is laying on every range and it is too cheap to buy. I have some 30-30 brass, formed to 7-30 Waters that has been shot I know 20 loadings. I trimmed it once. It is about ready for the brass bucket. The .375 brass I tried was heavier and thicker, meaning you have to back off on the powder to prevent excess preasures. If you like to play, have at it, I did some 308 brass into 6.5x308 or the .260. I had 200 brand new .260 cases on my bench but thought I would try it. Not worth it. Take care and have fun. That is what it's all about. Heck, I shoot flintlocks and make my own flints for my lock and my arrows I shoot in my primitive osage bow. I know, I'm not right but what the heck. Someone has to be different.

Mike

I know, I'm not right but what the heck. Someone has to be different.

Mike

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LOL Mike, don't feel alone. A lot of the range brass my son picks up here and there is "high tech" experimantal stuff, lol. When winter hits and we get bored just lube up a case and run it in to a die and see what ya get. I tried one over the winter that I had high hopes for and got shot down. The fellow that did this, I am glad he pointed out a few things that made sense or I would have one chambered for this now.
Take a 30-40 Krag or a 303 British and run it up into a 7BR die. It is a damn cute little rascal. Oh, the only reason I didn't stay with it, I didn't want to fork out $$ fro custom dies, wanted to stay with readily available die sets or combination there of.
Jeff

I agree why?The 375 win case is a little thicker wall but the case will not hold as much powder if the walls are thicker.Pressures may max faster in 375 win case. I made a few out of 375 win just to see and really no difference.I use alot of 30-30 brass for my ,357 herrett,30 herrett,7-30 waters,30-30 win barrels never had a problem.I have a 375 win barrel and the brass don't seem to last any longer.
just my .02