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How do I Adjust my old Contenders trigger ?
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Gents,
I bought another Contender today and the trigger is awful,Stiff and long. Not at all like my other and since my other trigger was so good I never had to adjust it I forgot how. And this is an early blued model with the screw under the hammer head so I doubt the directions for my stainless model will work. Of course I can't find them anyway.... Any help would be appreciated. 45nut
 
Posts: 538 | Location: elsewhere | Registered: 07 July 2001Reply With Quote
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The screw that is mounted in the top of the trigger above your trigger finger on the newer frames, is INSIDE the frame on the older models, and so you must remove the barrel and look down into the frame to see it and adjust it. The overtravel screw is still in the same place.

For what it is worth, I much prefer the older frame's trigger. It can be made lighter than the newer one's with equal trigger jobs, and more important to me, the curvature of the trigger is placed more properly for where one's finger naturally rests, at the BOTTOM of the trigger. On the newer frames the curve is at the top, where you get the LEAST leverage and where it is the least natural.

Hope this helps!
 
Posts: 830 | Location: Virginia, USA | Registered: 08 March 2002Reply With Quote
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Sean,
Do I adjust it in or out to lighten the pull ? I have removed the barrel and see a tiny allen screw I hope is the correct one.
Rest assured I only want it better not dangerous.
Thanks 45nut
 
Posts: 538 | Location: elsewhere | Registered: 07 July 2001Reply With Quote
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If I am remembering correctly [ don't have my old frames in front of me at the moment] you adjust it in to make it lighter. Yes, it is the tiny allen screw. Adjust it, then test it with a barrel installed: snap the action shut and see that the trigger is not so light that it goes off just from closing the action, also test that the hammer cannot "push" off, then you will have it about right!

I have one older style frame that intentionally has the trigger so light [trigger job in addition to light set of the screws] that I must hold it steady while closing the frame so that it does not go off. I always keep the hammer safety on until the action is closed on this particular frame, and mainly use this frame from the bench, and rarely when sniping Woodchucks at very long ranges here on the ranch away from any people. I do not recommend such a trigger to any save for those with sufficient experience and care in the use of such under their belt [Big Grin]

Let me know how it works out!

When you have both adjustment screws where you want then, dab some clear nail polish on them and they will stay put.

[ 08-31-2002, 08:53: Message edited by: Sean HHI #7364 ]
 
Posts: 830 | Location: Virginia, USA | Registered: 08 March 2002Reply With Quote
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Sean,
Job Well Done. Indeed you turn it in to lighten the trigger. Easy as I remember it to be long ago.
Just haven't defragged my personal harddrive in decades :>Wink I gave it about a 3/4 turn,tried it, backed it out 1/16th and am very pleased. Now if I can decide whether to keep 2 45/410 barrels in 10" or trade one in Sunday at the gunshow....thanks again 45nut
 
Posts: 538 | Location: elsewhere | Registered: 07 July 2001Reply With Quote
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45Nut,

Does one of those 45 barrels have the adjustable sights? I have been interested in a 45/410 barrel, but not the vent rib model.
 
Posts: 830 | Location: Virginia, USA | Registered: 08 March 2002Reply With Quote
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Sean,
I have a 45/410 barrel with adjustable sights and NO rib in excellent condition, that I might trade for something if you're looking for one.
Nashcat
 
Posts: 331 | Location: MiddleTennessee | Registered: 26 May 2002Reply With Quote
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Nashcat,

E-mail me in the morning or afternoon, as I may try to make a deal with you [Big Grin]
 
Posts: 830 | Location: Virginia, USA | Registered: 08 March 2002Reply With Quote
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