I just got a nice, used, very good condition 10" Bull barrel in 357 mag.. Trying to put it on my frame, I cannot close the action/barrel. It seems to hit something half way to closing. I checked it against my other 10" & 14" barrel, and I cannot see anything different between them all. I can close the action/barrel without having the hinge pin in, but I cannot get the hinge pin in after that. Looking through the hinge pin hole, all looks well with the barrel stuck in and closed, but the pin will hit the side of the frame hole, and not go in. I did try to force it some (not much) and it hits a stopping point and will go no further. My frame is a new SS, made around 2001.
What's the problem here????
Bulldog...

Bulldog, If the rear of the barrel is not hitting the frame[and it shouldn't be] you may have to get another set of locking bolts. Is it the older single locking bolt or the newer split bolts?

[ 08-18-2002, 00:38: Message edited by: Jules ]

Jules,
I'm not familier with the different types of locking bolts. I can tell you this, it is the exact same lug/bolts as my other two barrels. They all look the same, no difference that I can see. If you mean split, like a notch cut into the bolt, yes, that's what I have. Bolt being the thing under the extractor.
Bulldog...

That is correct. Is the barrel hitting the frame when you try to close it?

Does the extractor flush up with rear of the barrel? If it dosen't it might have some grit in dirt in it.

Nope, just the bolt and extractor, as what I see. I can put the barrel on without having the hinge pin in, it fits tight, the open hole where the hinge pin goes, looks fine to my eyes (it lines up), but the hinge pin will not go in, it's hitting the lug.
Could this be that the lug is longer? I have not measured it to see, but will later. I gots a shooting session to go to @ 5, and I want to shoot my friends 480 ruger and his kimber...
I will get back in and measure all the lugs and see if there is a difference.
Keep thinking as to what this could be (problem), as I am wanting to pop a few 357 rounds ASAP!
Bulldog...

Yes, they will go in with no problem, everything works, except the closing of the action.

[ 08-18-2002, 01:25: Message edited by: bulldog ]

If the hole in the lug is in fact...to far forward, then send it back to TC and let them know what's going on.

Just a shot in the dark here as I had a problem with a 357 Mag barrel on my Contender that would only close part way.

I had to file off a miniscule amount of material from the barrel lug edge/bevel in the area of the lug below the locking bolts.

It was the second edge just below them. This came in contact with the bolt face in it's arc when attempting to close the action/barrel.

Take a black marker or white-out and color these edges to determine if one is indeed hitting the bolt face somewhere in it's arc when closing.

You may have a close fitting barrel with zero to very little clearance at the bolt face when fully closed. Mine is like this.

Regards

As noted, ink the end of the barrel to see where it is hitting on the frame.

Every so often I run across a barrel that is simply too long from the hinge pin hole back to the end of the barrel. I simply put it in the lathe and start facing off about .005" at a time from the breech end of the barrel until it will close ok, then check it with a feeler guage set to make sure there is some clearance in case the user's frame has a somewhat shorter distance from hinge pin hole to breech face than my shop frame does.

I have also seen situations where the trigger group was pulled too far up into the frame by its return spring, located inside the grip/buttstock behind the trigger guard. You can dab some grease or heavy oil on the top edge of the trigger, then install, open, and close the barrel to see if the trigger is contacting the bottom of the barrel lug and leaving a spot of oil on it.

If it is, loosen the return spring screw a turn or two, then tighten the socket head screw next to the rear tip of the hammer spring, top side of the grip/buttstock tenon. This lowers the trigger group in relation to the frame and barrel lug.

I have also seen problems where the front angled surface of the barrel lug under the hinge pin was too full and binding on the old style trigger group that pivoted at the front.

And as noted above, the extractor can project too far from the end of the barrel. Filing material off the front side of the extractor moves it forward, or you can file off the rear side also.

I don't recall having to take any material off the rear corners of the barrel lug, but that is entirely possible also, as Headstamp noted.

Good to see you guys learning to spot parts and analyze what is happening yourselves. Thanks for passing it on. I don't mean to "upstage" you, but just to affirm that you know what you are talking about and on the right track, plus adding what I can to the mix.

Keep up the good work.

Bulldog, once you identify your problem, then you have the option of fixing it yourself, sending it and the frame back to TC to fix for free, or sending it to a qualified 'smith to fix. However, very, very few gunsmiths I have run across know squat about how Contenders work and are more prone to "botchalism" than you would believe. Thus, it is important you know what is going on before handing it over to the 'smith. If he is talking out his back side, best find another 'smith.

Mike

1buba,
The above post would be good archived don't ya think?

Mike

"botchalism"........He loves that word dosen't he

OK, this is what I found out. Using a black marker (hard to really see good) I colored the area below the locking bolt (as per Headstamps post) and I noticed the edge of the lug was disturbed (I could not see any of the marker on the frame). I then put some tape on this area (lug) and tried to close the action, I could feel the tape hitting the frame, and upon removing the barrel the tape was cut along the first edge below the locking bolt. Measuring the distance below the locking lug and the first edge, it came to 0.243" compared to a smaller distance on my 44 barrel which was 0.171". This may be the problem! I assume, all I need to do is to file the second flat area below the locking bolt or would just filing the edge work? (wish I could draw all this out for you all to see).
Comments?
Bulldog...

I also put some tape on the breech face, and can see where the lug is hitting the face, at the very, very bottom of it. I asume by filing the lug area below the locking bolt, I can do no harm to it. Measuring the total lug length (parallel to the barrel), I found it to be longer than my other barrels (no more than 0.010 between the 357 & hornet barrel)and the hornet barrel closes just fine.

[ 08-18-2002, 06:41: Message edited by: bulldog ]

PROBLEM FIXED!!!!
I just got out the handy dandy Dremel tool, lightly brushed the edge with a grinder pad, and PERFECTO!
I closes and opens without a hitch! This is one tight barrel to frame, no play at all in the hinge pin area.
Thanks to all, I knew that by asking here, my problem would be no more.
I can now go out and blast some targets and have some fun.
I did get to shoot a 480 Ruger today, nice shooting gun. The Kimber 45 shot very well, trigger was heavy but good. Overall, today has been good. I'm one happy camper now!
Thanks again,
Bulldog...

Serves you right! Glad to be of some help, but it looks like you did a pretty good "Super Sleuth" job figuring it out yourself. Amaaaaazing what a little measuring will do. Just need a clue where to start, right?

Mike

Very good!

Looks like you have a virtual zero clearance frame/barrel fit. You may possibly see a "half-moon" mark at the top area of the barrel breech also after some cycling.

The tape was a good idea. Mine just needed a corner slightly knocked off the edge of the lug as stated above. Used a jeweler's file.

I find it extremely interesting that I had the same problem with an identical bbl length and caliber as you. May have been a bad lug setup day for TC QC.

Only thing I might add for you is that to check engagement of the bolts by inking the top surface of them if you have trouble with the gun not locking up all the way to fire properly owing to the tight breech fit.

Have Fun

[ 08-18-2002, 08:22: Message edited by: Headstamp ]

Mike, you are right on me wondering where to start at. I knew that I could get all the info I needed here. I did surf some to see if anyone else had a simular problem like mine, but I found none. It was so simple to fix, I'm ashamed to even to have asked about it.

Headstamp, I thought the same on why we both had the same problem. I did go out this morning and run a few rounds through the barrel. No problem at all, in fact, this barrel looks to be a shooter! It is tight, but that's the way I like it...
Thanks again,
Bulldog...