I bought a virtually new Contender frame today that someone has been playing with all of the trigger screws on. The sear adjustment is set way to light and I'm pretty sure I can fix that, but the set screw in the back of the trigger guard is turned in almost to touch the trigger (where only a thread or two is holding it in). I thought this was a factory "leave alone" adustment. Does anyone know where it is suppose to be set? I don't have any Contender manuals but have requested copies from T/C. Thanks, Mike

Mike - The fact is that there is a screw adjustment on that thing...and now you tell me to leave it alone?! I cannot be...if something is there to tinker with, then by all means do it!

Seriously, I adjust it for the "feel" that I like. The trigger should have some movement after it "lets go". I don't like an excess of that movement (or overtravel), but I think that it should have some. I have not had any adverse effects from adjusting it. Bret

I'm with Bret. I turned mine in all the way, then slowly backed it out with the trigger pulled until the hammer fell. Then I backed it off another 1/8 or 1/4 turn. You can't hardly feel the trigger move.

Could this be as dangerous as a 2 oz. trigger on a hunting Encore???

You do want just a very little travel of the trigger after the striker is released, and the 1/8 to 1/4 turn is enough to assure that temperature changes do not keep the trigger from travelling far enough to release the striker, which can be REALLY BAD. 1buba is "right on."

What happens is this. You pull the trigger & nothing happens, but the striker is just ever so barely held that it will then release either unexpectedly or when jarred a slight amount.

The purpose of the overtravel is to stop the movement of your finger when the pressure it is applying to the trigger is not there all of a sudden. That pressure on your finger keeps it in motion and moves the gun much more than you may realize. Over travel should be set as minimum as possible while still assuring the trigger can always move enough to release it.

TIP: Depending on the tolerances on the sear (that part inside of the frame that actually holds the hammer cocked, not the striker in the trigger housing)the overtravel screw can prevent the trigger and striker from moving enough while resetting the striker and prevent the cams on the trigger housing from unlocking the barrel. In short, it can keep you from opening the barrel. In this instance, grinding some off of the angled surface of the sear that contacts the striker will give the clearance and travel needed.

TIP No. 2: Replace the factory overtravel screw, which is some of TC's genius at work. Skip on down to a local hardware or auto parts store that has a good fastener assortment. What you want is a No. 4x40x 1/4" socket head set screw. I buy them by the hundred and nearly always replace the factory screws with one the correct length, then use a light grade of LocTite to secure the screw once set.

TIP No. 3: If you for some reason find that you must remove or adjust the overtravel screw and can't, simply remove the trigger, then drill the screw from the socket side with about a No. 50 or 1/16th" drill. As you drill, either the torque from drilling will screw the screw on through the hole or the heat generated will soften the Loctite and let the screw wind on through the hole.

Mike

Oh, in regard to the engagement screw, the one in the top of the trigger in Easy Open frames or accessible from inside the frame on old style frames, you can turn the screw in as far as you like for as short engagement as you like, BUT when the engagement is too short, snapping a barrel shut just a bit hard will "bump off" the striker. First evidence of this is the fact that you cannot cock the hammer.

When this happens, back out the engagement screw about 1/4" turn at a time until you can snap the barrel shut without the striker bumping off.

Then you are home free.

Mike

Thanks for the feedback guys. After reading your responses and seeing how obvious the answer was, I do feel rather foolish. But I guess its good to prove to yourself every now and then that you're not the brightest crayon in the box. (they always get used up & broken first ) Thanks again, Mike