I just got my shell holder in for my case trimmer and was getting ready to knock out 100 cases and read thru the instructions and then measured the case sent with the barrel. Max is 2.20 and my sample case is 2.163

Any input on what lenght is ideal. Instructions do say slightly less than 2.20
Thanks, Ken

My shop test fire cases are cut short so that ones I use over and over again don't have to be trimmed. When I test fire, it is for function only, and the extra clearance makes no difference.

The test fire cases are not indicative of trim length, only surface finish of the chamber and headspace IF they have been resized.

Chambers are cut with neck end clearance of about .025" min., thus the instructions to trim to 2.200."

As an assist to shooters, when I form cases, I trim them back to something under 2.200" to eliminate trimming for them for a few reloadings.

Best trim length is the one I post, 2.200," unless one is up to speed to determine the exact length from the end of the chamber neck to the breech face and trim closer to this actual dimension.

As a safety precaution for both myself and the user, there must be adequate end clearance in the event cases don't get trimmed when they should be or a mistake is made in measuring cases. Thus the chamber necks are cut longer than 2.200" from mouth of chamber neck to breech face.

All the best.....

Mike

Mike,
Thanks for the input.

I'll spend tonight making a large amount of golden dust on the reloading bench. Now I need to get a power adapter for the case trimmer!

Got one of those motorized do-dad's for my birthday a few years back. Ohhhhh BABY are they nice!!!

steve

If you are handy, take a 303 British Lee case trimmer pilot and stone down the pin to arrive at the correct trim length for the 308 Bellm.

Chuck the lock stud with a 444 Marlin shellholder in it in your cordless drill and blast along at a good clip til you are done.

You will need a Shell holder/case length gage 444 Marlin (put the Marlin case length gage aside and just use the shell holder), a 303 Brit shell holder/case length gage (put the Brit shell holder aside and use the case length gage) and the cutter/lock stud unit.

Stone down the Brit case length gage pin to proper trim length of your Bellm round and also chuck the gage in a drill press to file it down slightly to proper diameter. (the Brit is a little larger in diameter in the neck.)

Sounds like a lot but is very simple to do.

You'll have a quick trimmer for a little over $10 invested.

I have one for my 358 Bellm. I filed down a 444 Marlin case length gage to 358 and stoned the pin down a hair.

It's fully preset and doesn't require trial and error aggravation to adjust.

http://www.leeprecision.com/catalog/browse.cgi?1027616662.4812=casecon.html

Regards

[ 07-25-2002, 21:06: Message edited by: Headstamp ]

Headstamp,
Thanks for the info. I did not see a 444 Marlin listed in the website so I will call to get one sent.
Question, Do you use the small cutter or the one with the wooden ball they show.

Slowly making cases with the crank on the RCBS Trip Pro 2. I'm just wondering what would happen if I chucked the 1/2" drill up to this thing?

Ken

I use the standard knurled cutter unit but the ball stud one looks easier to hold onto. A 444 Marlin case length gage/shellholder is listed in the catalog.

Just take it easy once you start approaching the desired diameter you need. Finish with light sandpaper or crocus cloth. Just go for a slip fit so the case will turn easy on it when you turn the drill on SLOW. I put a drop of light oil on the inside neck of every fifth case or so. You will feel the cutter stop cutting when you bottom out the pin onto the face of the lockstud. You'll get the hang of it fast.

If you are making a one for the 308 Bellm, you will be better off using the Brit 303 case length gage as it will be easier to take off a bit of diameter for the 308. Then just stone down the pin to arrive at the correct length. Unless you have a small lathe, then the sky's the limit.

RCBS may make an attachment that replaces the crank handle so you can use a drill. My Forster has one on it. Just be sure to lube the trimmer shaft where it passes through the housing as you will wear it out under power driving. Don't spin it too fast either as most of these cutters are for slower speeds. Use some oil on the pilots too.

Have fun

Ray, I had to chuckle when I first saw your post about your trimming methods, which are great and very helpful. Thanks.

Remember the Lyman Power Trimmer you traded to me over 10 years ago and probably well over 10,000 cases ago? I still use it all the time either on the drill press or on the vertical mill even. I love it and always wondered why you traded it off. I'm just glad I never got off dead center and bought a Forster like I had always lusted for. The Lyman is GREAT. I still love it after all these years, and thanks again for trading it off!

The spud type trimmers are more precise, but for volume work, that Lyman set up is mighty, mighty hard to beat, and I'd recommend it any day.

BTW, mine is mounted permanently on an aluminum plate. I also drilled holes in the base of the holder for all the pilots and the cutter shaft to keep everything together when not in use. I also ground a small flat on each pilot for the set screw to seat against and replaced the set screw with a harder one.

Want it back? No way. Those would be fighting words!

Mike

Mike,

I have a Forster drill press trimmer too. Which I really like. Have a Forster Lathe type trimmer I bought on sale from Gil Hebard for a song with all the pilots and collets.

The Lyman is a good unit with it's universal chuck. I actually built that trimmer I sent to you from parts from a lathe type trimmer. I got the universal chuck head from that trimmer and just bought the cutter head unit and base from Lyman parts dept.

I can just see the advantage in it for you in making custom cases for your chamberings. Glad it works for you.

One can take the Lee Trimmer and chuck the cutter/depth gage pilot assembly into a drill press too. Just use either the drill press table as the stop for the pilot pin or use a flat piece of harder steel on top of the table. Just take it easy and don't bear down on the drill press handle as you will wear a dimple in the table. Hold the case with your left hand. Put the drill on it's slowest speed. Works real fast.

You could even make up a pilot with no pin on it and just use the depth stop on the drill press itself for proper trim length like you do with the Lyman or Forster drill press trimmer.

The cadillac is the Dillon Trimmer with the port to hook a vacuum cleaner to. Now that is living!

Always looking for different ways of doing things as it's just part of my character defect.

Regards

[ 07-28-2002, 01:48: Message edited by: Headstamp ]