I just did another trigger job on my latest addition frame. It's gettin so easy I could almost do it with my eyes closed.
I didn't cut any coils off this factory trigger return spring to lighten the pull.
I really want to find aftermarket springs with different pull weights without buyin the whole set, like the one from Trapper Guns.
I don't really want to use a Bic lighter spring cause that's not what there made for.
Does anyone know who sells packs of these springs for just this purpose?

Oh, Here's a frame if anyones lookin>>>>
http://www.gunbroker.com/auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=6099041

[ 11-10-2002, 18:07: Message edited by: Jules ]

Jules,

I'll bet if you go to <www.gunsprings.com>, you may find what you're looking for.

Malm

Thanks Malm, I went to there site and there not listed. I sent them a e-mail to see if they have em.

Jules

If you could measure the diameter of the spring wire, the outside diameter of the coils, and number of coils per inch, then go to the Brownells catalog you may be able to find the right spring there. The new spring would have to be made from a little bit smaller diameter spring wire I would think. Then once this was done you could experiment with lengths to get the pull weight you are after (with a lighter spring you might have to start with it a little longer than the original).

I did this with a Savage Striker in .243. The original Leaf Spring was .080" Diameter Spring Wire, and the gunsmith I talked with said to try .040" diameter spring wire. I was able to locate some and it worked great.

If I get a chance today I'll lool in the Brownells catalog and see what I find.

Larry

Thats a good idea Larry. I cut all of the factory springs on all my contenders...except this one...to give them the trigger pull i'm lookin for. I even cut a couple too short and had to stretch the spring out a bit.
They all still work fine, but i'm trying to get a spring that will compress in place, yet give a lighter pull without cutting off the double coils at the ends of them. So far all of my trigger jobs pass my drop test even the one that's set at lb. That's because I under cut the sear notch, giving the striker a tiny bit more engagement to keep it from going off. I won't go below a lb. though, and I really don't see any reason to.

Jules, Brownell's used to have a spring kit. I have looked in my latest catalog and didn,t see the kit. Laugh or make fun of the Bic lighter spring trick, but it works and nobody knows the difference. If it would make you feel better get a Zippo and steal the spring from there, as they have a life time warranty.

Has any one polished the sides of the hammer or any other parts to speed up the lock time? Or help it out in any other ways? Just curious as to what Juenke did to some of the TC's in years past.
Jeff

Jules

What I actually did was went to my local Farm Implment Dealer (that just so happened to have a large selection of spring stock on hand) and picked out a couple different sizes that worked, but just had a different amount of coils per inch. The ones I ended up with are larger in diameter, and the result was NOT USING the Spring Plunger, but instead the spring was the right diameter to fit the hole perfectly. I have done several this way now, and so far no problems. They are all set at 2 pounds.

Larry

Thanks Larry,
I'll check local and see what I can come up with.

Jules,

Wolff offers bulk springs. I am sure that if you can talk to someone in customer sevice, they can steer you towards what you're looking for. They provide the majority of the springs Brownells sells.

Suggestion #2. Measure the dia of the wire of the spring that is working well for you. Go to a music store and purchase the closest guitar string you can. Guitar strings are measured in thousandths of an inch. Find the number of coils per inch and the major diameter of the spring you wish to copy. Obtain a threaded bolt with the same or close to the same diameter,and with as close the same threads per inch as the springs coils you wish to copy. Drill a small hole through the bolt for which to pass and secure the end of the guitar string to.

Get a small open container of motor oil. Insert the bolt in an electric drill or preferably a drill press. You will need two wooden blocks. (I use oak)

Here's the idea. When you fire up the drill, the guitar string should wind between the wood blocks and the bolt and follow the threads of the bolt. The two blocks of wood are used to guide and apply pressure and friction as the wire winds itself up the bolt. If the winding process is done fast enough within the wood blocks, then enough heat should be generated by the friction of the wood blocks to make this spring you are forming, take a set.

You then need to remove the newly made spring and dip it in the motor oil. Remove the Bic lighter spring from your contender trigger group and reinstall it in the lighter. Fire up the Bic and ignite the offending oil drenched spring. When the oil burns off and the flame dies, quench the new spring in a can of water. Take and compress this spring in a vise to test it out. If it springs back into position, use it. If not, call Wolff...

Yes I have actually made springs like this for emergency projects and when other springs or means were not available. With practice, you can turn out some pretty good springs that will last. This is useful for making oddball springs. Common springs should be purchased from those who do it for a living like Wolff... unless you get good at it.

Jules, if you can follow this post, and if you can actually make sense of what I wrote, you are indeed a good man. Good luck.


Malm