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I'm surprised nobody has listed viagara. I'm not old enough to need any, but I know I'm one of the younger ones on the site. What else are ya'll gonna do with time to kill? | |||
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As to humor I am quite familiar with its use and benefit in "heavy" situations, flying, emergency departments, tornadoes, floods, fires etc. That is not only as a survivor, but also as a relief worker and manager in occurrences here in Texas and elsewhere. As to the "experts" you refer too --I most likely have their contact info close at hand and perhaps have spoken to them. As to taking oneself too seriously, the thought behind the post was to stimulate people to think of their own preparedness for conditions in their locale, and to see the differences. Gallows Humor and personal jabs are to be expected humor among people known to each other and may be extremely funny. Attacks on unknowns are rarely humorous, particularly when they hear you-- Cannabis Humidor BTW, is the crystal St. Louis?? If not you are truly a poser. Bill's Boy So much for decorum and assisting the community. Now back to our regularly scheduled thread-- Edited 08:47 19 May Tejas DuggaBoye-O NRA-Life Whittington-Life TSRA-Life DRSS DSC HSC SCI | |||
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Sheesh, would you lighten up? I LIKED your post and thought it was interesting and thought provoking. If you thought my post was an "attack" then you're just flatass paranoid and should seek professional counseling. As for childish wordplay with your screen name, I resisted the urge to sink to that. That's exactly the kind of crap that turns members off. | |||
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Are people allowed to use the F-word on this forum? I thought you people were higher class, but obviously not. Just a bunch of pre-teens puffing up their chests. | |||
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please don't judge us all by the infantile rants of a few. There really is a lot of good info on here, and a few Pain in the neck Trolls. Use the Ignore function in your personal preferences, and you can avoid ever reading what those few say. | |||
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I have read this Klink guy before,enough said.I am a parent,grandparent,and friend,I don't "bug out". Read a good book by a guy named Robert Crais,I believe,a character named Joe Pike,had a bug out bag.Good book | |||
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try and find a copy of Mel Tappan's "Survival Guns". I live in SW Idaho instead of the metro St Louis area for more than the hunting. Rich Buff Killer | |||
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Mel's is a good resource. Emergency, Neil Strauss is a recent book on a non-prepared individuals growth in the process. Robert Pelton's book is also of benefit. DuggaBoye-O NRA-Life Whittington-Life TSRA-Life DRSS DSC HSC SCI | |||
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Relax, Laddie. JetXhaust, also known as "Depends", is a known name caller. He posts more than just Rambo-style survivalist lists. He has authored posts both here and on the political forum which make it clear he packs a handgun in the sincere hope somebody will provide him with the opportunity to shoot them. In other words a nut. | |||
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Here's a related question: What IS your bugout bag? What do you use to store and then mobilize your gear when the time comes? I live in a fairly boring area of the country, but I'm curious about how you fellas prepare. _____________________ A successful man is one who earns more money than his wife can spend. | |||
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Bugs. And yours? | |||
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Mine usually has a S&W Model 36 with plenty of ammo, 2 quarts of water, first aid, 2 Surefire flashlights with spares. Space blanket, backpacker stove with fuel bottle, cash, pens and notebooks, nylon cord, knives and multi tools, and freeze dried food. Do your duty in all things. You cannot do more, you should never wish to do less." Robert E. Lee Glock 17, 19, 20. FNP9, Taurus 85UL S&W 60, 66, 686, 40, Model 36 Chief's Special AZ Desertrat is offline Reply With Quote | |||
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I really don't have one. I live pretty far out in the countryside and am not close to the coast so major weather systems are not a problem. I am also on a hilltop so floods are not an issue. Tornadoes are a real possibility, but my definition of "bug out" doesn't really include them. Most of the time, you're lucky if you've got time to seek shelter, much less get everyone together and leave. It the social situation deteriorated to where I felt it was necessary to "bug out", I'd probably load my wife and kids up in my diesel truck, fill up 50 or 60 gallons of spare farm diesel fuel (which isn't good for the engine, but that's a minor detail in an emergency) and send them somewhere I thought was safer. Given my age and proclivities I'd probably go seek out any ravaging hordes coming in my direction and see how they enjoy precision shooting. OTOH, if I lived in a city, especially one near the coast, or if I lived near a coast, I'd have a plan and keep the necessities either packed or have a readily available list of what to grab that I didn't already have packed. If you've got anything of value, you have to consider that and what to do with it, depending on what is causing you to leave.....burial is not an unreasonable choice if you can't carry it, or all of it along. During the "Great Ice Storm" starting on Christmas Day 2000 we were without electricity for 15 days. Since we are an all electric house, including the water well, it made it something of an adventure. But we made it without any real problems. Got a 5 kw generator on about day 5 which helped by allowing us to take hot showers and, of course, kept the freezers froze. Up until then it stayed cold enough, mostly below freezing that the freezers weren't an issue. Most people don't consider that if there is no electricity, there is no gas station that will be open. Obviously if you were in a true survival mode you could dip it out of the underground tanks but that would be a very slow process. xxxxxxxxxx When considering US based operations of guides/outfitters, check and see if they are NRA members. If not, why support someone who doesn't support us? Consider spending your money elsewhere. NEVER, EVER book a hunt with BLAIR WORLDWIDE HUNTING or JEFF BLAIR. I have come to understand that in hunting, the goal is not the goal but the process. | |||
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Lists I have found useful in the Past. For what its worth: A ruck-sack to hold everything, (not a military bag, a civilian bag is more stealth, you can carry a camo pack cover for field situations with a civilian bag you're just someone walking down the street with a book bag) you've probably got one laying around in a closet • Boy Scout Field Book in Ziploc bag (read it before you need it) • Any needed medications with copies of prescriptions • Spare eyeglasses • Identification (old expired drivers licenses work well) • Water purification tablets, water bag, water purifier/filter • 2 large garbage bags • 50' parachute cord • Space blanket • Lighter and waterproof matches • 3 8-hour candles • Small roll of duct tape • 3 cyalume chemlight light sticks taped together with extra duct tape (this prevents their premature activation, and gives a little extra duct tape to work with) • Knife, Swiss Army Type • Knife, Folding Hunter Type • Multi-Tool, Leatherman or Gerber • Small first-aid kit • Pepper spray • Whistle • Compass (get a good quality one) • Flashlight (small, waterproof), store batteries separately (check seasonally), headstrap for flashlight • Stocking cap • Polypropylene glove liners, leather glove shells • Neutral colored flannel shirt • Spare underwear • Spare socks, 2 pair, NOT COTTON • Military Camo Poncho (shelter and concealment) • 3 MREs or substitute off the shelf items • Small assortment of spices (cayenne, paprika, sage, etc. It is amazing what you can eat when it is spiced right.) OPTIONAL List - The laws regarding the possesion and transport of firearms vary from state to state check your states statutes. • Survival Arms, AR-7 .22 semi-auto survival rifle w/spare magazine (the barrel and receiver take down, all components fit into stock, it floats, it is very light and is small enough to fit in a ruck-sack) • 1 brick .22 ammo (500 rds.) • Small single-action 6-shot .22 revolver and holster • Weapons cleaning kit • River-runner type sandals http://everything2.com/index.pl?node_id=1352742 ________________________________________________________ 10 Packs for Survival From: Joel Skousen Joel is an author and expert in building secure homes. Please visit his web page for more information or to purchase his informative books. Introduction This booklet was prepared to provide you with the essential minimums for survival preparations. While it is not exhaustive in coverage, it is complete as to the needs of most people. Before adding long lists of your personal extra needs, try calculating the cost of these bare essentials. You will be amazed at the high cost of contingency preparations. This is not intended to discourage you, but rather, to help you realistically determine your future financial priorities so as to ensure you have bought the essentials before adding the sophisticated extras. After you have acquired about half of the recommended items, you will become aware of a critical lack of storage space within your home--if it is designed like most American houses. To assist you in planning for a more self-sufficient residence we have also included a brief summary of the concepts outlined in the 500 page Survival Home Manual. If you desire to pursue the subject in more detail, we suggest you order the manual direct from our Architectural offices using the order form at the end to the booklet. Philosophy And Design Criteria of The Survival Home Survival architecture is the unique design combination (in the proper proportion) of facilities, materials, supplies, equipment, knowledge and skill exactly matching a correct analysis of what shortages and crises we will face in the future. In achieving this purpose I make reference to the fact that "survival means more than solar" to emphasize the need to avoid becoming too involved with only one aspect of self-sufficiency at the expense of the others. This error in proper perspective has become the most common mistake in the entire craze for self-sufficiency. With each new product devised, a corresponding marketing slogan usually appears describing "how you can become totally self-sufficient" with their product. The potential severity of future crises, however, seems to dictate that no one product brings total self-sufficiency. It seems most probable in the final analysis that no set of products or facilities, no matter how complete,brings anything but temporary self-sufficiency for a lone individual. There are a variety of terms and definitions floating around in the "self-sufficiency" arena--one of the least understood pertains to "survival and "retreat" philosophy. "Self-sufficiency" as a term is well accepted and enjoys frequent use among the entire social strata, whereas "survival" intimates "gloom and doom". However, under more careful scrutiny, it becomes obvious that "survival" and "self-sufficiency" are nearly synonymous. In actuality, the purpose of self-sufficiency is to SURVIVE various crises where one is in competition with others for scarce resources: ie, food and fuel shortages, dwindling finances, or social unrest, etc. There is a significant difference between the general term "survival" and its child, the "retreat" philosophy, which is an ultimate reaction at the limits of the self-sufficiency concept. Why Self - Sufficiency? Many subscribe to the view that most of our future economic woes and commodity shortages will be government induced through bureaucratic mismanagement and excessive regulation. So, you say, the responsibility will simply fall back on ourselves, where it rightly belongs. However, this view overlooks our prime and ever-increasing social weakness; that our society has become so specialized in its occupational endeavors, we no longer have the will or skills to revert rapidly to a generalists society with each providing his own essential skills and services. Thus, we encounter the real reason for the craze for self-sufficiency: the inner need to become confident in our ability to provide for ourselves and our family should a minor or major crisis or shortage arise. The motive to save a few heating dollars is perhaps primary with many who may purchase a wood stove, but it soon becomes obvious to most woodburners that wood heat is only a small portion of their total self-sufficiency needs. In fact, when you tally all the other additional self-sufficiency needs such as water, waste disposal, electricity, storage space, tools, and security, you suddenly realize that you have come face to face with the word "survival", which is the word that, in essence, reflects "ultimate self-sufficiency". Everything Involves a Priority Choice While the survival retreat concept gets all the headlines in the hard money newsletters, its share of actual dollars invested is insignificant. From my experience as the architect most often involved in survival housing, the majority of client energy and funds are devoted to residential upgrade and preparation within the bounds of suburban or semi-rural living. Why? Frankly because very few people have the time, money or inclination to separate themselves completely from society even though they believe that difficult economic and social problems will be forthcoming. 100% rural self-sufficiency is almost impossible to achieve on anything more than a hermit level. Even then it is either all-time consuming or inordinately expensive and probably both. In the final analysis then, everything in the survival and self-sufficiency field is a compromise or trade off of one lesser asset for another more important to you. If you want isolation to have security, then you usually sacrifice social ties, time and gasoline in commuting, and maybe electricity, telephone, and leadership opportunities. There are ways of overcoming these compromises--if you have enough money, additional manpower and equipment; but you may become so sophisticated that you aren't self-sufficient any more. No two individuals or families should utilize the same self-sufficiency plans. Here are the Essential Steps 1. Begin reading non-governmental analyses of the state of the nation. Specifically: political, economic, social, military, and moral trends. Reading recommendations include: PERSONAL FINANCE newsletter 901 N. Washington St. suite 605 Alexandria, Va 22314 Gary North's REMNANT REVIEW P. O. BOX 39800 Phoenix, AZ 85069 2. Analyze the condition of your local state and community as to long term survivability in a crisis: Most favorable criteria are: a. low population density (50 people per sq. mile or less) b. High level of religious, moral character. c. Lack of highly unionized heavy industry, or welfare populous. d. Strong local autonomy with little attachment to federal funds. e. Diversified economy with an agricultural base. 3. Make a series of decisions based upon your national and local assessment as what problems you most likely will encounter. Note: You cannot come to a proper design of a self-sufficient or survival residence unless you have determined what shortages, crises, or threats you face. The better your research, the more accurate your predictions will be. 4. Read the Survival Home Manual and study the essentials of survival residential design to determine what your present home lacks and what is available in new or remodeled survival construction. 5. Determine, financially and security wise, whether you should remain in your present home and remodel, move and build or buy a more suitable home. Consider job, and/or commuting time. It is imperative that you do not destroy your income producing ability unless you have other means or opportunities to turn to which will survive most economic downturns. Don't be tricked into thinking you can go "live off the land". The capital required for machinery and non-growable necessities will require substantial monthly income. 6. Start saving and begin a monthly procurement plan for acquiring the items listed in the 10 packs for survival. Do it each month--don't wait for enough money to accumulate for a one time purchase of everything--it may not be readily available then. The foregoing introductory material is essential in order to appreciate the following survival design criteria. The quantity of preparedness features I will describe may not be necessary in every case, depending on the relative security of the location you choose to live in. Remember, the more self-sufficient and secure the area in which you live, the less it costs you to prepare for personal survival, Primary Faults of Conventional Housing The following are the six essential liabilities of the conventional residential structure: 1. Lack of security (fire, intrusion, vandalism) 2. Poor resistance to heat, cold, wind, and sun. 3. Lack of storage facilities (food, dry goods, machinery etc). 4. Poor floor plan efficiency (costly wasted space, lack of emergencyaccommodations) 5. Single source of heat for space heating, water heating, ,@Ind cooking. 6. Single source of water and electrical power. Design Criteria In my actual design work, the most common concern expressed by the wife of a client is that the home not look like a fortress or a bunker. This is not only possible but preferable. There is no benefit in becoming a known target for resentment during hard times. The best survival residences are designed to look completely conventional both inside and out, so that you may stay within the bounds of society without appearing as an extremist and encouraging undue resentment. The properly designed survival residence has within its walls and private recesses all the equipment and design technology that allows you to maintain a nearly normal lifestyle throughout a crisis. This is extremely important to the family man who must maintain his income during hard times. He cannot afford to take time off from work to heat hot water over a camp stove during an electrical outage or stand guard over his house day and night when major civil disturbances occur. The following are some of the major design features of a survival residence: 1. Independent well water and/or water storage facilities integral with the home 2. Multi-fuel furnace (burns at least three different fuels) 3. Reserve or standby electrical power 4. Multi-fuel cooking facilities, and water heating equipment 5. Secure walls, doors, and windows with intrusion monitoring equipment 6. Superior energy-conserving structural design utilizing solar and underground design where possible 7. Secret and semi-private storage facilities which include a fallout shelter 8. Maintenance and repair facilities with appropriate tools 9. Greenhouse and other food production facilities 10. Internal communications equipment If you are questioning the potential costliness of a full survival residence, consider this: it is not intended to discourage you from acting due to lack of sufficient funds, but rather to show you the importance of ordering your financial priorities In order to start preparing in the most critical areas first. In all cases, never place all of your available funds into one, or even two areas at the exclusion of all others. If, in the final analysis, you find that not all of your self-sufficiency preparations were utilized, you will have at least spent many a restful night with the assurance that you have done everything within your ability to prepare you and your family for realistic potential difficulties. Both those who wish to relocate permanently and those who may simply desire to construct a vacation retreat cabin elsewhere will need some guidance as to the best areas for security: We have made available to our clients the most comprehensive security map covering the entire United States, both as to the most dangerous areas and the most secure areas. It represents many years of research and analysis and may be ordered direct from the architectural and planning division using the order form at the end of this booklet. Food Pack 200 lbs/person, hard winter wheat 50 lbs/person,rice 50 lbs/person, beans 10 lbs/person, honey 25 lbs/person, powdered milk(non-instant type) 6-months supply normal canned goods and bottled fruit 1-large bottle 1000mg VITAMIN C 1-large bottle multiple vitamin 2-clove garlic (nature's anti-biotic) (keep refrigerated) 4-#10 can/person dehydrated fruits and vegetables (use for variety-not for bulk) Salt, pepper, spices Oil (keep refrigerated) Water Pack • 1- portable water washer filtering kit (from american water purification co. 1990 @olivera rd. Concord, ca 94520) • 1/person water straw individual filter straw (from american water@purif.) • 1-pack scientific filter paper (cone) (12v diameter papers) • 1/person 10 gallon glass distilled water bottle. (date and seal with stopper and tape. Wrap on bottom and sides with dense foam carpet pad to protect against earthquake or jarring. • 1-bottle halazone tabs. Or regular chlorine bleach for water purification. Power Pack • 1-mobile, self-contained 3kw 120/220v generator (diesel or gasoline/gas) with one month fuel supply in portable tanks • 1-12 volt auto battery with carry strap trickle charger, and jumper cables and 12v light attachment • 1-100 ft. 4-plug heavy duty extension cord with built in light bulb (rough duty rated) in a "cage" • 2-hand-operated flashlights (item #605-771w695 from us general catalog 100 general place, @jerico n.y. 11753) • 2-nicad flashlights (item # 852-5350w us general catalog) • 1-long range police-type flashlight with extra bulbs • Supply of nicad batteries with charger: • 8-D cell • 4-D cell • 16-AA cell • 2-9v transistor type Med Pack • Blood pressure gauge (electronic) • Stethoscope • Bandage scissors • Long tweezers • 2-locking forceps (1-curved point) • Disposable scalpels • Thermometer (oral and rectal) • Inflatable splints • Bandages elastic, self adhesive band-aids large compress type with straps. • Sutures (dissolvable) • Cotton backed adhesive tape • Gauze • Aloe vera burn ointment • Anti-biotic ointment • Aspirin • Rubbing alcohol • Ipecac syrup (to induce vomiting) • Container of sterile water (1 qt) • Clean absorbent cotton rags • Soap (liquid) • Long stemmed cotton swabs Transportation Pack • 1/person: 10 speed bicycle with heavy. Duty tires, rack and carriers, lights • 1 emergency vehicle (recommend vw vanagan with trailer hitch, locking gas cap, and camper options. Install bike racks front and rear, and extra 30 gallon gas tank. Carry oil cans two flashlights emergency tool kit: extra fan belts, metric wrenches and sockets, oil filter, air filter fuel filter, spark plugs, points, condenser, fuses, light bulbs, head light, tire pump, aerosol tire repair sealer, jumper cables, tow cable w/hooks, inflatable raft (4 man) with paddles. • 1-250cc motorcycle equipped for road and off road use. Add equipment and extra fuel tank carriers. Travel Pack (These items should be packed in portable "duffle bags" ready to go) • 1-qt water per person • 2-"energy bars" per person • Dehydrated food pack for one week dried fruit, vegetables, meat flour, oil, salt, pepper, spices vitamins, honey,peanut butter crackers, protein powder, powder milk • Collapsible 5 ga. Water containers • "Water washer" filter • Lightweight cook kit large pot, dishes, spoons, forks knives, cups, non-stick skillet spatula, can opener, large spoon • Towels • 2-water proof nylon tarps • Change of clothes for each person • Coats, • 1-thermal blanket • 1-sleeping bag / person • Matches, fire starter • Compass, maps of areas of intended use • 2-rechargeable flashlights • 12v trouble light w/@cig. lighter plug • First aid kit • Toilet paper, • Soap • 1-pocket knife • 1-fishing kit • 1-large bowie knife (western cutlery) (perfectly weighted to serve as both fire knife and hatchet etc) • 1-small portable mt. Climber's stove • 1-back pack with frame • Paper, pencil • Signaling mirror • 1-manual flashlight • Whistle , portable cable saw • Small bottle of bleach, insect repellent. • Magnifying glass • 100 ft. 1/2 dia. Goldline rope, • 2 pulleys • 50 ft. Nylon "shroudline" cord • .22 caliber pistol w/ 500 rds. Ammo. Communications Pack • Multi-band receiver/scanner • 1-citizens band transceiver • 2- 3 channel portable transceivers rechargeable batteries,p ortable power pack, antennas • 1-small portable television (battery operated) Equipment Pack • 1-grind all grinder(for wheat, corn beans, peas, nuts etc.) Ram Products 765 S. University Ave. Provo, UT. 84601 1-grain country bread mixer. Food Science Corp. 95 N. 200 E American Fork, UT 84003 • 1- Victorio strainer (Vitantonio Corp Willoughby, Ohio 44090) • 1-hand operated can opener • 1-steam canner with canning bottles w/lids and rings for two seasons cutlery: high quality knives: o Peeler/filet knife o Pairing knife (short small) o Long slicing knife. • 1-portable electric icebox 12v. Koolatron industries limited, 56 Harvester Ave. Batavia , NY 14020 • Kerosene lamp/heater by aladdin • Two burner kerosene or propane stove with one month fuel supply • Hand operated clothes wringer • Treadle sewing machine or treadle attachment for your electric machine • Portable electric hot plate • Fire extinguisher (portable) Defense Pack • .22 cal.pistol (9-shot revolver or 15 shot auto) w/ 1000 rds. ammo. • .22 cal. rifle w/1000 rds. ammo. • 45 cal. auto pistol w/ 100 rds. ammo. • .223 rifle (mini14 by ruger) w/ 500 rds. ammo. • 2- canisters of aerosol mace • 1-pocket knife • 1- bowie knife Tool Pack • 1- 250 amp portable arc welder • Pelletized oxy-acetylene torch • Propane torch w/spark lighter • Solder/flux (electrical and non) • Allen wrench set • Nut driver set • Tap & die set (national course,fine) • Socket set & ratchet handle, @extens. • Channel lock pliers • 2-adjustable "crescent" wrenches • Needle nose pliers with wire cut. • Vise grip pliers with narrow jaw • Metal chisel • Wood chisel set • Metal punch/drift • Tin snips • Claw hammer • Small, large screwdrivers • Small, large phillips screwdrivers • Hand operated twist drill • Auger expansion bit with brace • Hack saw • Bow saw • Handsaw (10 pt teeth) • Large pry bar/wrecking bar • Ax • Hatchet • Small block and tackle or 'come-a-long" hand operated winch. • Glue assorted • Nails, nuts, bolts, screws • Electric multi meter, • 110 circuit test light Barter These items generally meet all of the following criteria for Barter 1. High consumer demand 2. Not easily home manufactured 3. Durable in storage 4. Divisible in small quantities 5. Authenticity easily recognizable • Liquid detergent, • Laundry detergent • Rubbing alcohol • Bleach • Toothbrushes • Razor blades • Toilet paper • Aluminum foil • Writing paper, typing paper, • Pens, • Pencils, erasers • Shoelaces, string, cord, rope • Fishing line • Insect repellent • Water repellent • Paint, varnish • Matches • Watches • Tape • Light bulbs • Needles, thread, zippers, buttons • Aspirin, vitamins, other drugs • Seeds, grain, sugar, • Coffee, liquor, cigarettes • Anti-biotics, burn ointments • Safety pins • Manual can opener • Knives • Canning jars, lids, rings • Shoes, boots, socks, nylon stockings • Underwear, • Winter clothes • Coats • Blankets • Hand guns, rifles,ammunition • Fuels (all types) • Quarts of multi-vis motor oil • Anti-freeze • Wire • Glues • Bolts, screws, nails http://www.survival-center.com/dl-list/dl30-pak.htm ___________________________________________________ Recommended BOB (Bug Out Bag) Contents ( from Survivalist.com) FOOD & WATER - 3 to 10 days of lightweight food - At least 2 days of water - Means to purify water - Some way to cook your food (stove, rack for fire) - 1 quart pot, 3 quart pot, stainless steel fry pan, coffee percolator/tea pot - stainless steel mess kit, two insulated or plastic mugs/cups - knife, fork and spoon set, steak knife - 5 gallon collapsible water jug - measuring cups, spatula, slotted spoon - basic spices - 2 quart canteens, water bottles or hydration bag - dish scrubby and dish soap - small bottle of bleach - manual can opener SHELTER & SLEEPING - tent with extra pegs/stakes and/or two tarps (8 feet X 6 feet) - sleeping bag or blankets - sleeping pad - 10 to 20 small nails - 50 feet of rope - 100 feet parachute cord - plastic sheet/tarp or heavy duty garbage bags CLOTHES - underwear, 4 to 7 pairs - socks, 4 to 7 pairs (wool - some cotton is OK) - T shirts, 4 to 8 (at least 2 all synthetic) - long sleeve shirt - fleece or wool sweater or 2 - wind & water resistant jacket with hood - athletic/sweat pants, 2 pairs - jeans, 1 pair - shorts, 1 pair - thermal underwear, 1 pair - watchmen's cap (wool or fleece) - baseball cap - sneakers - hiking boots - water shoes, moccasins, flip flops, etc - army poncho - seasonal clothing - Woolite - retractable clothesline and clothes pins (6 to 10) - bandannas (3) BASIC TOOLS - Multi-tool (Leatherman, Gerber) - folding knife, 3 to 4 inch - fixed blade knife, 4 to 6 inch - hatchet - machete - leather work gloves - compass - LED flashlight - squeeze/shake/windup LED flashlight - light sticks, three 6 hour - solar/crank/battery powered multi-band radio - whistle - matches, 50 to 100 - disposable lighters, 2 - magnesium fire block - binoculars, small sportsman's - small shovel or entrenching tool - basic survival kit FIRST AID & MEDICAL - basic first aid kit - blister cream and moleskin - NP95 disposable masks - latex exam gloves - medicated foot powder - extra Ace bandages - spare eye glasses or contacts - 30 day supply of any prescription medications - lip balm/chapstick - sunscreen - 2 decks of cards (Sanity) - favorite book (Sanity) - travel/auto versions of popular games (Sanity) PERSONAL HYGIENE - comb/brush - tooth brush, tooth paste, floss - deodorant/antiperspirant (scentless if going into woods) - nail clippers & file - soap in soap dish and/or liquid soap - face cloth or body scrubber - hand towel - bath towel - baby wipes - baby powder - sample/hotel size shampoo and conditioner - antibacterial wash - sample size shaving cream and disposable razor - toilet paper - small unbreakable mirror - feminine products - garbage bags MONEY, ETC - roll of quarters - pre-paid long distance phone card - Cash, as much as possible in 1s, 5s, 10s & 20s (minimum $200) - Keep in mind bribes and other "tolls" or "taxes" that may suddenly appear - ID, copies of important papers The minimum amount you will need is the number of gallons of gas it takes to get to your destination times $5 (to account for price gouging), plus meals and snacks along the way and hotels based on one room for every 12 hours of travel time plus one more just in case. THE BUG OUT BAG ITSELF Your BOB should be made of sturdy material. It can be a backpack, duffel bag or a plastic tote. I would suggest a backpack so that it is easy to carry if you are forced to walk for any distance. Older ALICE backpacks allow you to add pouches, canteen covers, etc and are fairly inexpensive. DuggaBoye-O NRA-Life Whittington-Life TSRA-Life DRSS DSC HSC SCI | |||
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I had to go to Macon, MS to get my aunt after Katrina, I worked through Rita and Ike. One similiar thing I noticed in all of these storms. No gas, but diesel was still available. I've got a gas generator now, but I'm looking for a diesel to have as well. Robert If we can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people, under the pretense of taking care of them, they must become happy. Thomas Jefferson, 1802 | |||
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Forgot to say...we went from Macon back to Gulf Port, MS to get a few things. Robert If we can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people, under the pretense of taking care of them, they must become happy. Thomas Jefferson, 1802 | |||
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I personally like this thread. My wife and I have started building this exact list of items for our family. I like seeing the opinions of others on this subject. One thing that may be useful for those in hurricane and tornado areas may be a chain saw. You may need to cut a few trees out of the road to keep moving. A simple 18 to 22 inch saw would be enough for 90% of the things you would run into. It is on my list due to ability to clear a road or assist in shelter or a fire if needed. If we need to bug out we would most likely head for my Dad’s place in Colorado. We have about 4 routes picked out, most involving a combination of back roads and highways. | |||
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The chainsaw is an excellent and vital suggestion if you're trying to get out of somewhere after a storm in a treed area. Since I have 5 stihls, ranging from fairly large to two of the smaller ones I'm recommending sitting in my barn I didn't think to mention it. I can HIGHLY recommend the Stihl 170 (now discontinued I believe and called the 171 in the new model) which weighs less than 9 pounds is easy for anyone with a minimun of experience to handle and cuts very well due to it's smaller kerf size. They cost around $175 bucks new and I'd recommend the 14 inch bar. With this you can, if necessary easily cut a 2 foot or slightly more diameter tree, and you could manage a larger diameter tree but it would take some extra cutting. If you don't know what you're doing with a chain saw, I strongly suggest that you ONLY cut the minimal amount that is absolutely necessary to further your progress. Unless you've got two saws and/or have a reasonable amount of experience using them it is EXTREMELY easy to get your saw caught by being pinched in a cut on a downed tree, which would create extra problems in an emergency situation and could quite likely cause you to lose/leave your saw. An axe is a good back up but would take some time to get your saw out and, unless you're good with one, could easily damage you or your saw. This is an excellent saw for all normal household firewoood cutting, etc. Stihl classifies it as a light duty saw and it is, but it will stand up to some serious use. Many pros use it for limb trimming, etc. Like I said, I like them so much that after I used one for a while, I went out and bought another one. As mentioned earlier, they will continue to cut adequately even when the chain is quite dull due to the smaller kerf sizes, something that bigger saws won't do well at all. I let my 18 and 20 inch bars sit in the barn now, unless I've really got a big tree to work on. Get an extra chain, be sure it is the right length, and have some 2 cycle oil around. Not to mention some gasoline, especially if you're running a diesel, otherwise you can mix chainsaw gas/oil out of your fuel tank if you had to. Stihl is probably best but I use brand x (because I bought a bunch of it on sale somewhere) and mix it 25 to one as opposed to stihl's 50/1 ratio with their oil. I wouldn't recommend it but you probably could get by with regular motor oil mixed rich if you absolutely had to. I'm sure it would shorten your saws life considerably. A extra spark plug is not a bad idea if you think you might be gone for a while. Also makes a quick and good substitute for a skil saw when doing rough carpentry. As mentioned above, I'd consider an axe as necessary and second back up tool to get you out, but it would obviously be much slower and more labor intensive. One final idea, sounds gruesome but if you're in a rush and there is a newly dead animal, deer or cow, you can quarter it up in a hurry if you have to and take a quarter with you. xxxxxxxxxx When considering US based operations of guides/outfitters, check and see if they are NRA members. If not, why support someone who doesn't support us? Consider spending your money elsewhere. NEVER, EVER book a hunt with BLAIR WORLDWIDE HUNTING or JEFF BLAIR. I have come to understand that in hunting, the goal is not the goal but the process. | |||
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Check out the the survival podcast, I believe it's thesurvivalpodcast.com- The host is always talking about the bug-out bag and bug-out location. During the Rita evacuation even cell phone systems were going down due to overload. Too many cars on the road and nobody getting anywhere. I live about 90 miles from the coast and have'nt felt the need to evacuate yet, but living without power {AC} for two weeks is enough to make you want to. Bugging out is something to consider, {even if it is just for comfort} especially along the gulf coast. Rodney. | |||
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You never needed it with an ugly girl and too much alcohol? (In my best evil Yoda voice) "You will!" | |||
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Silk sleeping bag liner. Silk pajamas are optional! | |||
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Rambo Commandos and "Bug Out Bags" . . . I thought this died out with Y2K. | |||
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Not if you live in a hurricane prone area. Peter. Be without fear in the face of your enemies. Be brave and upright, that God may love thee. Speak the truth always, even if it leads to your death. Safeguard the helpless and do no wrong; | |||
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include: Fault zone, any coastal areas, areas prone to brush / forest fires, countries with political instability... It's a long list | |||
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Cash is a good item, but not too much cash. It can turn you from a survivor of a natural disaster into a victim of a murderous robbery. While speaking of cash, sometimes a little gold or silver is a lot better medium of exchange....especially as you can use a heavy knife and exchange only part of a bar or coin sometimes. Or even just some spare MREs, ammo, stuff like that, is good for trading purposes. Depends on what the emergency is and how long it lasts. Me, I've already bugged out to the hills and have been here the last 19 years. I try to keep extra gasoline on hand for the generator and the chain saws. We supply our own water and fuel for heat. We are not in a flood, tsunami, hurricane, or tornado zone. We ARE in an area that has a level 8 earthquake every couple of hundred years and are about due for one of those. Still we have a frame house which flexes with minor tremors, so it may or may not suffer extensive major damage from a severe quake. We are not Mormons, but I am not incapable of learning from my neighbors who are. We try to keep the better part of a year's supply of dried and other basic long-shelf-life foods on hand in the pantry, just like they do. Might be used to feed us, but more likely to feed us and the neighbors for a month or two, if needed. Most of the neighbors have productive gardens, family orchards, and pastures. We have a good Neighborhood Association. Not the kind that is a formal overseer of each other's property or restricts our rights to use our property, but the kind where if you need a tractor or a backhoe, a boat, an electrician, (or even a saw-bones), you can always count on getting one if you are truly in need. They all own guns too, with VERY few exceptions, and we already know where and how to seal our road if we need to. Since there is only one road in and out, that isn't too tough. Of course we have all sorts of extras such as clothes, blankets, even a couple of extra tents and cots on hand. And in my basement we have a walk-in machine shop complete with powered machine tools and a small fortune in hand tools. The neighbors have all kinds of useable assets too, and most important of all are truly neighborly. So for us, "bugging out" means getting home if at all possible. Since we only go to town once a week and that NOT EVERY WEEK, with the assistance of the almighty, we MAY survive a while longer. | |||
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I could not imagine a better answer... God bless.
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Well, I haven't ridden out a Category 5 (and don't want to, either) but I did duck hunt right through Category 1 winds one time. I was wondering why the trees were breaking off and blowing over! Winds got up to 84, and the ducks couldn't fly when it was that bad, but we couldn't leave the blind either, for fear of safety. When the winds came down the ducks started flying a bit, even though they were about 10 feet off the water. My two guests couldn't hit anything in that wind, fired over 100 shots to kill 12 ducks. | |||
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Why doesn't everyone just put Wm. S Ladd on ignore like I and some others have, and life will get better. I think this has been an informative and interesting thread, and thank those who have contributed positive information. I wouldn't know what willie ladd has contributed, as I haven't read one of his posts in a very long time. | |||
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