Some months ago I was permitted to hunt the Lake McRae block on Molesworth Station in December but until November wasn't sure the access road was open. The road which is closed through Winter anyway had been badly damaged by big storms earlier in 2022 and was closed to all but valley inhabitants until repairs were sufficient to reopen the road. I had confirmation in November of the reopening for public use so I made haste in organising gear for a trip of five or six days. Earlier my son and one of my old friends were coming along on this hunt but both had had to cancel so I was on my own. The company would have been nice but I was still looking forward to getting in there and exploring new country. This would be my second Molesworth hunt after checking out Bullen Hills nearly a couple of years ago. The hike into Lake McRae is said to be 20 km vis Robinson Creek and this is the route I took. Unlike most Molesworth hunting blocks which lack huts there is a good hut on the Lake McRae block, used seasonally by the farm hands during mustering and is also available for public use. It's a great hut and I was glad to make use of it.
Molesworth is big. Big in scale and visual impact. 182,000 hectares in size and belonging to the NZ public since the 1930's. In more recent times it's been redesignated a "Recreational Reserve" and while it remains a functional farm, the biggest in NZ, it is open to a variety of recreational pastimes, such as hiking / camping, horse trekking, mountain biking, rafting,Canada Geese and Chukar bird hunting, fishing and, of course, big game hunting. Of primary interest to me are Red Deer, Chamois and Feral Pigs followed by feral Goats. Both Goat and Pig numbers can be high at times while Red Deer numbers seem low and patchy. Chamois are a rare sight. Aerial 1080 poisoning for Possums has knocked back Deer numbers in recent years although I believe ongoing 1080 drops will include Deer repellant after hunters objected to adverse Deer impacts. The Lake McRae block had 1080 applied in October and I found a few baits while there. The baits had Deer repellant and I didn't find any dead Deer. This poison drop meant I wouldn't be taking any meat home as the advice is this remains unsafe until about 12 weeks after 1080 application. So I was not intending to shoot any Deer but thought I might shoot and leave a Pig or two as a management contribution but after reading the hut book decided to leave the Pigs alone too. So, Goats were the only endangered critters and duly I did reduce a little Goat pressure on the landscape.

Click on the top picture of the page that opens for an overview of Molesworth hunting blocks.
https://www.google.com/imgres?...HWaLDw4QMygAegQIARBE

https://nzjane.com/wp-content/...rve-brochure-DOC.pdf

Departing home in late evening meant I would comfortably arrive 8 hours later in Wellington and catch the ferry crossing of Cook Strait to Picton. Unfortunately departure from Wellington was delayed but the crossing was pleasant on calm waters. I wanted to arrive at Molesworth with sufficient time to hike at least some way up Robinson Creek that day and was concerned I might have to overnight at the Cob Cottage camp before starting next morning.

The road is open.


Entry gate to Molesworth.


But after refuelling in Blenheim I made surprisingly good time reaching the camp at Cob Cottage where I met the duty ranger and chatted about the best approach to Robinson Creek. I thought if I could drive to where the Robinson meets the Awatere River I could drop my pack there, park my truck back at Cob Cottage and easily walk up again with only the rifle before loading the pack and continuing. The ranger agreed and I drove a farm track until I found a stream I imagined was the Robinson and dropped my pack past some beehives. I had driven back to camp part way before being met by a truck driven by Jim Ward who happens to be the Molesworth manager and he asked what I was doing up there. He rolled his eyes when I explained and said that stream was the Yeo and that Robinson was quite a bit further on and reachable only on foot. I mumbled an apology, turned around, fetched my pack and returned to the camp where my truck would be parked. The ranger had heard about it on the CB so made me a cuppa while I reorganised myself to commence from there on foot. I knew I would be camping somewhere along the Robinson that night and wanted to get a good start with what remained of the day. With pack on I passed the Yeo Stream and it was a reasonable distance to the Robinson but the going upstream seemed effortless with the easy gradient and both shallow and narrow crossings. Late in the day on a grassy flat I pitched my daughters one person tent, made myself a sweet coffee and soon after rolled into my sleeping bag for the night. I had now been on the go for 22 hours and it took very little time for the murmuring waters to lull me into deep and restful sleep. I felt great next morning and was eager to go. Overcast skies indicated a chance of rain so I made the raincoat handy when repacking. I didn't rush up the Robinson. There are many side gullies that look so inviting I was glassing a bit and doing a lot of looking as I went. I found a bit of Deer sign but nothing really fresh. I disturbed many Canada Geese along my route. Most took wing when I got too close but some had young in tow and fussed and honked loudly trying to distance themselves from me. Closer to the stream head there was a bit of low cloud and light showers passing through. I donned the raincoat but wasn't really getting wet. The boundary into Lake McRae block is over the Robinson Saddle at the head of Robinson Creek. Approaching the head of Robinson I found an old cast antler with pretty good length and tines. I wouldn't mind meeting the owner although stags are in velvet still at this time. I'm not sure if Molesworth typically produces huge stags but I think good genetics are present.

Old cast antler.


Close to Robinson Pass. Landscape.
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After grunting up the last little section to the Saddle I was in the mists for a while so sat and snacked while waiting for visibility to return. Eventually I pushed on to the top of the spur that was the route down into the block. Again the cloud came in so I stopped and started looking around the near vicinity. I saw two young animals huddled against a little rock outcrop out of the wind. Almost 200 yards away and I thought they were young Chamois. I was overjoyed until a few minutes later a larger animal approached and they jumped to their feet. Goats ! I had been royally fooled. I picked up the rifle to check them in the scope which Mum saw and they hurriedly took off down the shingle slope.
The route down the spur gives good views into side some creeks of the Tweed River. Several of these looked ideal Red Deer country but I saw nothing. Wrong time of day really. The remaining route to the hut looked straightforward but, of course, my supposed short cut at the bottom of the spur was not so helpful when I had to battle past thorny Sweet Briar patches. Once through those I was onto the valley floor tussocks and grasses with a straight run on to the hut. I was encouraged to see scattered Pig and Deer sign around.
In all it took 9 hours total travel time to reach Lake McRae hut. A welcome sight that mid to late afternoon. It's tucked in against tall Willows and not easily seen until quite close. First impressions were favourable and bolstered upon entering the tidy, clean interior. This would indeed make an excellent base for the next few days. I organised a bunk bed, set up my stove and utensils and packed items for hunting next day. I filled pots at the small spring five minutes away and topped up the hut water container. I hung clothing under the verandah to dry.

Lake McRae Hut, new and original.




Inside - comfy !


Lake McRae is well off the beaten path and the hut receives perhaps just the more intrepid types who wander the backcountry. The hut book is fairly scant of entries with notes mainly from inquisitive hunters, hikers doing the 5 to 6 day traverse and some superfit day trippers. And the Molesworth stockmen who do the twice yearly muster. I noted the entry prior to mine by DOC cullers, in during November to cull Goats and Pigs. Some big numbers shot. I decided then I would not hassle the Pigs on this trip.
I had an early dinner, spent several minutes glassing the hut surrounds then hit the hay for an early night.

Hut Book entries


Up before dawn next morning I found clear skies and little wind. After taking breakfast I hit the trail towards the lake and Goat Valley Stream beyond. Hundreds of Canada Geese inhabit the lake. Some flew off, most remained.

Lake McRae, for which the block is named.
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Accessing Goat Valley Stream is difficult. The valley flats are choked with impenetrable Sweet Briar. I tried following cattle tracks to no avail, having to back out every time. Eventually I found I could weave my way through right where the flats intersected the slopes and made slow progress towards the back faces. I found very fresh deer droppings so was alert for an encounter that never occurred. In several places I glassed the open slopes, finding small groups of Goats, all on the far side of course. I pressed on, finding the Sweet Briar thinned further up allowing a scattering of open, grassy patches. The Deer and Pig sign noted was all old. I eased around a corner, immediately seeing three Goats above me, upslope, at about 170 yds. From my jacket I took the Tikka T3 magazine with 30.06 rounds loaded with Norma Oryx 180 gn bullets and clicked this into the rifle. Dropping into a handy gutter allowed me to rest over my pack and comfortably shoot uphill. A quick duo of shots accounted for the two most visible Goats. I thought I would get the third as well but obviously it had taken the hint at two shots and disappeared. I could see the Goats on the opposite slopes weren't greatly bothered by my shooting and thought I would check them more closely on my way out later. I continued upstream. Interestingly, the topo map shows flowing streams here but there is no stream flow at all in this valley. Maybe there is for a while in Spring after snows thaw but currently there was nil. I poked further up one rocky streambed, glassed and found nothing. I backed out and went up another, around a couple of corners, glassing up the steep, rocky slopes and small, narrow bushy gullies. Good places for secretive game but I didn't see anything. Making my way back and out I got to the opposite side of the flats and hit a wide, dry streambed, making progress easy. Maybe I was too close to the slopes here but I couldn't find the Goats I'd seen earlier. I waited, and glassed hard, but no joy. So I headed back. The stream bed didn't take me all the way to the lake. It runs into the thick Sweet Briar. I had more luck following cattle tracks this time but still had to crawl under it several times. I was glad to eventually get to the lake shore. I think it was early afternoon when I reached the hut. I had a few easy hours, reading a novel from the hut book pile ( three or four books ), drinking coffee, a wee nap. As evening began to settle I took my rifle and hiked up onto the slopes behind the hut. These slopes are actually the dam wall for the lake. I sat where there are good views of the hut valley and slopes opposite and behind the hut. Somewhere I heard Goats bleating but couldn't locate them. As the light gently faded I found a Pig in swampy ground, snouting around here and there. Perhaps 500 yards beyond that, under a big, umbrella Willow in swampy ground, another Pig happily feeding on grasses. Looked like a boar. I enjoyed just watching. I had the binos on the slopes opposite the hut, just as nightfall descended, checking out a couple of good looking gullies. Suddenly, a solid bodied animal appeared. I caught a mere glimpse of antler. Red Stag. It was soon so dark if he had not moved I would not have seen him. A great note on which to end the day.

Where I saw the stag. The gully on the right.


I planned to check out the West end of the Tweed River next day and was out the door in the morning dark, expecting I would bump a Deer and Pig or two, and Goats for sure. Walking up the Tweed is very easy. Cattle have tracked it well and it's quite open terrain. Deer sign was quite recent so I was careful checking out side gullies as I passed. I certainly found distant Goats and numerous carcases of dead Goats killed by the cullers. Most had subsequently been well fed on by Pigs. The few culled Pigs appeared to not have been touched. In the upper reaches of the river I was deciding which branch to take when it started raining. It didn't ease as I thought, only became heavier and I reluctantly turned back and headed downstream. Probably just as well. For some reason the achilles tendon in my left foot was sore and was getting worse as I walked. Eventually I went all the way back to the hut by which time I was hobbling along in pain. I rarely have foot trouble and don't know why this suddenly flared up. I had rolled my left ankle a couple of time walking up the Robinson and maybe this was a delayed reaction. Surprised I had not seen any Deer I did have an interesting Goat encounter. On the river flats I came around a gentle corner and saw a single Goat bedded on a slope above me, maybe 200 + yards away. I plopped down immediately, reached for my rangefinder and by the time I had it out of my pocket the Goat was nowhere to be seen. Intrigued, I glassed around, seeing the Goat again about 700 yards away as it ran out of the scrub, going for its life ! I can only think it must have had a narrow escape from the culling activities. Goats are not stupid animals and they can learn quickly.
Back at the hut it was not raining as hard but continued intermittently or the rest of the day. I did not venture out again that day, or the next, deciding it wiser to rest the tendon to ensure I was capable of hiking out in a few days time.
The enforced hut day was pretty boring but I did learn something interesting by reading some of the info on hand. As you see from the photo of the hut there is an older structure adjacent. This was the original Lake McRae hut, built as a musterers hut in the 1950's. I guess building materials and tools were carried in on horses back in those days which I imagine would have taken a bit of time. Country people in the back blocks were certainly resourceful. The outer wall cladding of this hut, some of which remains now, was flattened kerosene drums which still looks to be in pretty good nick. Some wall sections have been repaired over time with corrugated iron which is the current standard. Molesworth still ake use of the hut today but only as storage for horse tack and anything else employed during the mustering periods.




Feeling that the easy day had improved the tendon I planned to be away early next day heading up a ridge towards a high point called Turks Head. It was not far from the hut and should provide good views into a couple of creeks. The rain passed over during the night and again I was on the trail quite early in the morning. The tendon felt sound, even as I was on the ridge heading steadily uphill, and I was confident I would be good for the hike out.

Climbing the ridge. View back into the valley. Lake McRae in background.


There certainly were some good views up into these creeks and I keenly glassed the patches I though would show Deer. The first animals I found were Goats, high up a steep slope, crossing a shingle slide. Other Goats were found as I glassed to total about 25 for the morning. Canada Geese were certainly numerous throughout these creek sides. On one high point I could see right over into the Tweed River. Saw numerous Goats over there and also one Pig that appeared for several minutes in an open area before retreating back to the scrub. It was a superb morning and I was not surprised by the level of animal activity. One big vegetated patch I returned to watching several times, expecting Deer to pop up, surprised me when a Chamois nanny and her kid walked into the open. The kid playful, bounding and sliding across the shingle while staying close to mum. A couple of time it butted mums udder and took milk. A few minutes later they had disappeared, swallowed up safely in the scrub. I was fortunate indeed to view that scene.

Typical terrain up the creeks.



By midday I had gone about as far along the ridge as I could. I headed slowly down a spur towards the creek below, carefully looking into terrain that was unseen from higher up. About 150 yds above the creek I stopped to get a snack from my pack. I glimpsed movement among the willows lining the creek and suddenly two Red Deer, a hind and yearling, sauntered into plain view. They were picking tidbits of feed as they moved. Seeing a photo op I quickly grabbed my camera and quickly and carefully as possible skipped downslope to get in range for a snap. I got as close as I dared and managed to get only one quick photo. They walked into some scrub and I though they would appear out the other side but they must have turned under the slope a bit as I didn't see them again. It was a cool encounter though. I felt lucky I stopped when I did otherwise I probably wouldn't have seen them at all.

Sorry the Deer looks distant. My zoom is pretty weak.


My tendon was becoming painful again. Luckily I was near the easier walking so when I reached the creek I headed back to the hut, arriving after 1:30 pm. I needed to rest my foot again and didn't venture out again that day. It rained softly from about 6:00 pm but cleared out overnight. My walk out had been planned for the day after tomorrow but being unsure now of how much the tendon might bother me I decided to start walking out tomorrow with the thought that if I needed to I could camp one night in Robinson Creek and finish walking out the following day. That night I applied blister patches and taped up my heel hoping that reducing boot contact might help. In the morning I also put on two pairs of socks. Unsure of how great a mission the return hike would be I was up super early to give the hut a good clean and sweep out and after a good breakfast hit the trail in the dark while stars could still be seen. What a superb morning. The tendon felt fine and I was in good heart, especially after passing a yearling Red hind only ten minutes from the hut, grazing on the grassy flats, peacefully and unaware as I passed on my way. I got up the creek and onto the spur leading up to the saddle. I didn't push it ascending and made several stops to soak in the mornings beauty. A bit further up I could see into he country I hunted yesterday. I wondered if any of the Goats had wandered closer to this spur. Glassing over a feed patch in a small side creek I was delighted to find a Red Hind feeding out in the full open. I watched for several minutes before continuing uphill. Probably a km further on I could see into the head of a side creek on the other side of the spur. It looked too promising to pass without glassing so I sat and searched. About 700 yards away was a Red Hind yearling feeding just above a small, scrubby gut. For a couple of minutes she was totally unaware but then her head snapped up, her nose testing the breeze. My scent had drifted across. She feigned indifference and pretended to pick at feed as she casually headed down to the scrubby cover of the creek. She ducked into the scrub and I didn't see her again. Time to carry on climbing. I could actually see the highest point and though I saw movement on the shingles above. In the binos I could see a small black animal with white feet shuffling through the short tussocks. I thought it was a dog but decided that was improbable. It must have been a young pig, surely. I looked for it when I reached that point but couldn't find it. But I found something else. A billy Goat walking across the shingle towards me, 300 yards away. I ducked out of sight, took my pack off, got my rifle ready and stalked in. When I came over the slope again I plonked my pack down with the Tikka on top and looked over where I thought the Goats would be. Nothing. But suddenly the billy jumped up onto a small rock pile. 200 yds in the rangefinder. I lined him up and hit him front on with a 180 gn Orxy. He stumbled back then came back towards me, looking sick but still standing. A second Orxy finished him. Unsurprisingly, lower, a nanny popped out of the tussock, presenting her front half. My last Oryx hit and she was out of sight. My second magazine had Barnes TTSX 130 gn. I started walking up and got to 50 yards away when up popped a nanny. Thinking this was the one I'd just shot I gave it a shoulder shot with the Barnes and it dropped and slid a long way down the shingle. Then a wounded nanny struggled to its feet. This was the first nanny hit with the oryx. Some intestine was hanging out. I finished it with a Barnes to the neck. I pulled this one up to the billy and took a pic. Five Goats for the trip is not much in the context of overall numbers here but every cull helps a bit.



At that point I was at the saddle and had not really felt the tendon very much. I crossed and started the descent into Robinson Creek. At some point in there the tendon decided to start playing up again. Trying to ignore it failed. I guessed I had gone about half way when I just had to stop and rest my foot. At least the weather was pleasant. I waited some hours before resuming the journey and had hope for about the first half hour but the discomfort and pain returned soon after and I knew the only solution was to grit my teeth and get this done. I found moving my foot a certain way helped somewhat but I didn't get this right every time and there were occasional bursts of expletives I'm afraid. At times I wanted so much to just stop walking but at the same time could not admit defeat so just put my head down and carried on. When I finally made it to the end of the Robinson I did stop for about 30 minutes which was both a great relief and huge mistake, probably. The final hour out to Cob Camp was hell, even the last little bit which is a vehicle track. I'm too embarrassed to say how long the hike took. Much longer than it should have for sure. It sure felt much better getting out of the boots and into sandals. I changed into dry gear, made coffee and an early dinner and spent a pleasant night at Cob Camp after telling the ranger about the trip. The following morning as I was reorganising and packing before departing Jim Ward was around on his bike shifting a few young cattle further along the road. I saw him and waved and a while later when he was returning past Cob Camp he drove over to me. I actually thought I was in for another scolding after our earlier encounter but in fact he asked about the hunt, what I'd seen, what I thought of the block and my time at Molesworth. Actually I'm a Molesworth fan and told Jim I really enjoyed hunting there and hoped to hunt and explore other blocks in future. Jim was very happy to talk hunting. He told me he lives for his hunting. He is very conservation minded and doesn't mind having a few Pigs around as they are early indicators of TB incidence which helps to counter incidence in cattle. He doesn't agree with everything DOC does or want to do in managing Molesworth but they do their best to work in. I guess he likes the station and his role there as he told me he been manager for 22 years. Anyway, we finished by shaking hands and him saying he was pleased I had enjoyed my hunt and hoping I would return to hunt again. Well, I certainly have future intentions of hunting Molesworth and to have Jim Ward's seal of approval on that is just icing on the cake.

Jim Ward mustering cattle.

Great story! That's some big country to be in.

Awesome report Grant! Some fantastic country to visit!
Hope that tendon comes right, its absolutely miserable with any leg injury and along walk out. Been there and know the feeling.

Thanks for the detailed report. Great looking place. Shame about the 1080 and no dogs allowed there. And good to see the bolt on the correct side of the rifle

Thanks for taking the time to put the report and photos together. Enjoyable read.

My knees are crying just looking at the photo's

Grant: You do a fine job of relating how it really was. Glad you had a good time and got some shooting.

Beautiful country. So much uphill it's obvious why your pegs gave trouble.

Thank you for sharing your trip and fine pictures with us. Heal up soon and well so you can go again.

George

Grant:

Thank you for posting this. I am always fascinated to see how DIY hunters, hunt in their home countries.

Did you have to get a special lottery/draw permit to hunt there?

I really would like to visit your country in the future. It looks like amazing country.

Jason

Great to see you still out there, doing it!
I did knee in jumping over one waterfall too many when I was culling 45 years ago. Took a couple of days to walk out on a crutch. Saw the Ranger's (Brian Carson) Landrover at the road end but he drove off just as I limped within 100m. Had to carry on down to Barry Crump's Pakahi Station to use the phone.
It's been a while since I packed in to a hut and I don't suppose I will again. Knackered knees and increased wealth and laziness means I now sit on a bike or truck to access the higher country.
Filled with admiration for someone still able and willing at your age to hunt the right way!

quote:

Jason P
07 January 2023 06:04
Grant:

Thank you for posting this. I am always fascinated to see how DIY hunters, hunt in their home countries.

Did you have to get a special lottery/draw permit to hunt there?

I really would like to visit your country in the future. It looks like amazing country.

Hi Jason,
Wifey and I have been away visiting our daughter so slow to reply, sorry.
Yes, hunting Molesworth is subject to success of the draw. You apply for available dates on a schedule and keep your fingers crossed. If successful in most cases you have exclusive hunting use of that block although, theoretically, other non-hunting users are not excluded which is low probability due to most blocks being fairly remote and lacking huts.
Molesworth also has limited Canada Goose and Chukar hunts on the same blocks and big game hunting is not allowed when these hunts occur.
Most blocks are open for hunting for 5 to 6 months every year and closed when the main Molesworth access road is closed for Winter. A few peripheral blocks are open year round with access subject mainly to prevailing weather and river water levels.
All this contrasts to the vast majority of DOC managed ( Dept. of Conservation ) public land in NZ for which you simply obtain on online hunting permit to hunt 365 days of the year.

quote:

Originally posted by georgeld:
Grant: You do a fine job of relating how it really was. Glad you had a good time and got some shooting.

Beautiful country. So much uphill it's obvious why your pegs gave trouble.

Thank you for sharing your trip and fine pictures with us. Heal up soon and well so you can go again.

George

Hi George,
My foot trouble may be age related. Not a Spring Chicken any more I'm afraid. Wifey and I just returned from visiting our daughter and fiance. We did a good hike up a popular hill walk and my foot was pretty good in sandals so maybe I will be back in boots soon. Hoping so anyway as I want to get out again before the end of January.
Hope you're keeping well. Cheers.

Hunting.... it's not everything, it's the only thing.

quote:

Originally posted by the Pom:
Great to see you still out there, doing it!
I did knee in jumping over one waterfall too many when I was culling 45 years ago. Took a couple of days to walk out on a crutch. Saw the Ranger's (Brian Carson) Landrover at the road end but he drove off just as I limped within 100m. Had to carry on down to Barry Crump's Pakahi Station to use the phone.
It's been a while since I packed in to a hut and I don't suppose I will again. Knackered knees and increased wealth and laziness means I now sit on a bike or truck to access the higher country.
Filled with admiration for someone still able and willing at your age to hunt the right way!

Hi Paul,
I love walking and hiking and will continue both as long as I can. But time and age catches up at some point and I'm definitely no exception. Unlike some who overworked their leg joints as younger men leading to impaired use in their senior years I expect it's my back that will be my eventual undoing. Too many niggles these days if I'm not very careful, brought on from stupidly overstressing my spine in my younger years. Still, I count myself fortunate. None of my current surviving friends I hunted with years ago will ever get onto the hill again. So sad.

Great big country cobber,I appreciate the effort in telling the tale too.

.

Grant somehow I missed this !?!? Great write up and pictures. Big country and quite a bit of game by the sounds of it. Any trout in the lake up there ? Thanks for posting and sharing and hope the tendon comes right.

Cheers mate

.