Hi all,

This site is directly responsible for me going to Africa this year, and now it looks like I'm on the Reloading mission!!!

Basically the Barnes TSX I was expecting for my 308 has not arrived, so I have found 100 heads and arranged for a freind to load some for me. Given that I only have 4 weeks to go before my trip I'm cutting things a little fine some would say.

Sooooo...... I 've started looking at getting a reloading kit but I don't know where to start. What would I need and what sort of price am I looking at to get started?

Also do I need to make any amendments to my FAC?

Trans.... Looks like you were right that I would be getting involved sooner rather than later!!

Also are there anty websites that I can look at that will tell me more?

regards,
FB

FB, went the same way myself a few months ago. You can get off the ground cheap with a Lee kit, or you can do it right the first time with RCBS Rockchucker. Cost c£225. You will need a few extras such as a case trim and a decent Micrometer or vernier to measure case length etc.

I can produce pretty good ammo for about £0.30 per round. For me the best thing is that it can make one rifle very flexible. 90gr at 3,300fps through to 150grs at 2,650fps in my .270.

Don't know about FAC issues in the GB. In N.Ireland you need a permit to buy powder and primers, let say 2KG of powder and 2K primers. The cops here issue this over the counter free with about 1 hours notice. You have to get a new one every time you want to buy more. No restrictions here on expanding heads etc.

Regards
Brian.

FB

Somewhat simpler over here in the UK. Currently, no permit or license required for purchase of any and all reloading kit.

Your RFD needs to enter purchase of expanding bullets on your FAC. Care - 'the permitted to purchase' figure needs to exceed the number of heads bought. Majority of bullets are sold in 100 lots - some premiums in 50's. FMJ can still be purchased without any restriction or paperwork.

A worthwhile investment is a small electric scale that reads in Gn.(Grains) - these can be obtained cheaply off ebay etc but give the confidence that your powder charges are as level as humanly possible. Well, to .01gn anyhow - and as there are 7000 gn in 1Lb that is pretty precise!

Any of the big powder or bullet companies will sell a comprehensive book of loads and a precis of good loading practice. Best thing to do is take advise from a current and competent reloader in tandem with your own research.

Accurate reloading comes highly recommended for data!!

Enjoy.

Rgds Ian

Fallow Buck.

Claret_Dabblers' right with the price for the kit and bits. l use a Redding Big Boss press that's as large as an RCBS and a little bit cheaper, if you're not wanting to swage bullets and have only one or two loads to work up this may be the way. Try Aftab Hamed at Reloading Solutions, he's not bad with his prices and he gets thew kit to you fairly quick as well. You don't need any alterations on your ticket, but you will need it to buy the heads as they go down in the gun dealers book and you can only buy as many as you've got registered for you ammunition purchases.
Try some of the builders/engineers suppliers for the micromitre, l picked up two digitals for only £30ea instead of about £45/50 from the reloader suppliers.

Good luck with the Hunt, we'll be waiting for the report

Regards.

Dave.
....

Thanks Guys,

The TSX heads I found were from reloading solutions, and I thought their service was great. Even when I needed to change my order, they were very helpful.

They are sending me a couple of catalogues with the heads so I will have a look at the kits they offer.

Thanks

FB

FB,

I started reloading about five years ago, and on the advice of a friend, this is the friend who got me started reloading, with thirty plus years reloading experience, I got a Lee anniversary kit. Now this is not the most expensive or the best kit on the market, but it is affordable, which is a factor if you find you do not care for reloading and have no wish to continue with it. I would suggest that your reloading friend is your most valuable resource here.

I still use the kit, along with other bit's and piece's that a reloader acquires over time, and find it to be perfectly satisfactory for my needs. Currently I load for Hornet, .243 and 6.5 X 55. I also cast for all three calibres and produce unbelievably cheap ammuntition, which of course means you shoot more!

Have fun

John

FB,

A word of caution - 4 weeks pre safari is not the time to be getting into reloading. I would also be very careful about reloads from friends (is is RW from CP in which case I'm sure it would be fine)

Personaly I would test some 180gr premium factory ammo such as Federal partition or Norma Oryx.

When you get back the reloading world awaits!

Fallow Buck,

If you haven't reloaded before at all, I would seriously consider seeing if you can buy some sort of premium loaded ammo. At least have it on hand. After all, you only need 3 or 4 boxes at the very most.

Doesn't hurt to try reloading in the meantime and build up loads. Four weeks is ample if you put the time in.

Basic kit required:

O-frame press;
Dies - seating die and full length re-sizing die;
Shell holder for press for your .308;
Dial caliper (for measuring length of cases - check all new cases for length and also after use);
Lube and lube pad - for lubing brass before re-sizing - use sparingly - wipe off after resizing;
Graphite powder and applicator - a set of brush in a plastic case, you push the case onto a brush, it cleans the inside neck and applies a small amount of graphite to the neck. You do not apply lube to the neck or shoulder. Graphite to the neck;
Powder scales;
Powder funnel;
A couple reloading blocks (ie trays to hold the brass upright, or an MTM Caseguard cartridge holder will do the job too and be useful for travelling with loaded ammo);
Powder trickler (for finishing off the charge on the scales);
Primer tool.

That is enough to get started. Most presses have a primer applicator but a hand held tool is better. You may want to consider a powder thrower, but weighing every load works too and is what I do. I have a thrower and have never used it. Use a small screw driver to clean primer pockets.

Later a case trimmer.

.308 Brass, primers (large rifle), propellant (powder) and projectiles and you are away. If you buy a couple hundred brass cases you should be able to build loads, sight in and load ammo for the hunt without resizing. Make sure the case mouths grip the bullets sufficiently. Some new brass needs to be resized. I use a screw driver to bell the mouths slightly to aid easy bullet insertion.

With your chosen bullet and powder find out the maximum load. A suggested starting load might also be available. If not reduce by 5 to 10% and then make up a series of 3 rounds or 5 rounds (say 3 of each) in 1 grain increments. Shoot groups at 100 yards to find the most accurate. You can fine tune it by using 0.5 grain loads once you narrow it down.

When loading finished ammo, insert all the powder charges and then I use a torch to visibly inspect the powder charge levels to enaure they are consistent. ie for double charges or too little. Never happened yet, but a good discipline.

Look for pressure signs as you shoot the loads. A shiney ring near the case head. Cratered and/or flattened primers. Note if you press the primer in too hard it may also flatten when fired. Using a hand held tool helps for this. Sticky or hard to open bolt. If you have access to a chronograph checking the velocity is also another aid.

Some rifles shoot everything accurately. Some like certain bullets more. So you may need to try other projectiles.

To determine bullet seating length, use your cleaning rod. Close a cocked bolt. From the muzzle insert the rod until it touchs the bolt face. Mark the rod. Then open bolt, drop lightly in a bullet so it sticks in the rifling. Insert the rod again from the muzzle until it touchs the bullet. Mark on the rod. This is the total round length to touch the lands or rifling. Reduce slightly for hunting bullets so bullets do not touch the rifling. Make up an unprimed empty case with the bullet seated to this length. This will be your master for future reloading.

Make sure the loaded rounds cycle well through the rifle. Before going on safari, cycle ALL your ammo through the rifle and reject any sticky ones. Maybe a case or two has a bulge from re-sizing or whatever.

Get a good reloading manual. My Hornady manual (an earlier edition) is the best I have seen for beginning reloaders. Some are hopeless.

Ask more questions if you wish, but this will get you started.

A 180 gr projectile is probably good in a .308 for Africa. Maybe 165 grainers. A good controlled expansion soft point. I use Nosler Partitions, Barnes X and Woodleighs in my .30-06 and .308.

1894,

I fully agree with you and in fact it is RW that is loading for me. He's a good freind and I trust him fully. In fact I was of the same thought as your self and suggested that I just shoot a different bullet, but he said that we'd go down this road so I leave it to him.

I will take my rifle to him to check the load through next week and if I get to take a couple of fallow with it before I go then so much the better.

I have 40 rounds of regular Barnes-X as a back up if the wheels come off the plan one of which I hop the put into a Fallow buck on Monday. How are you doing on the Roe?

Nitrox,

Thanks for the info. I don't know why I have changed mymind and got interested in reloading but it probably has something to do with knowing that if I'm loading a round I know and trust, then I know I will have ammo when I need it.

Info like you posted is always handy as I would have no idea of what prtessure signs to look out for