I thought I'd put this here because this is for a Praire Poodle gun....I have been using RL 22 w/ a 140 gr V-Max bullet.....and though the groups have been OK.....about 1.5 @ 100YDS. Granted this is the load from Cooper. Granted its a hunting rifle...going to take a trip to SD for them doggies in June. I have quite a bit of BLC-2 laying around and was wondering if anyone had some good loads for the 6.5X284 using that??? I'm also taking a 40X in 22.250 which is a tack driver. Was wondering if anyone here had any insites on using BLC-2 in the 6.5X284?????

Thanks Arrccod/Bill

I can only vouche for BLC2 in the 260 Rem, with 120 grain bullets.... but it is very accurate in those....

I believe BLC2 and W 748 are the same powder.. or awfully darn close....

I wouldn't say that BL-C2 would not work in your 6.5x284, but it is certainly not optimal. Even in the smaller .243 case with very light bullets, I have found it to be too fast and loading densities too light to make for good consistency and accuracy.

BL-C2 works well in the centerfire .22's and in medium capacity, higher expansion ratio cartridges. I have loaded it (or its spec clone WC-846) successfully in .308, .300 Savage, .30-30, 8x57, etc. However, in a cartride like the 6.5x284 it will leave a lot of air space.

And yes, it is the same spec powder as WW-0748 also.

My 6.5-284 likes IMR4350 for both 129 and 140 grn bullets.

quote:

Originally posted by Bill Soverns:
My 6.5-284 likes IMR4350 for both 129 and 140 grn bullets.

Mine likes H4350 for 100, 120 and 142 grain bullets. One gun, one powder, I wish the rest of my guns were that way.

Arrccod, I would assume that the 6.5/284 is for the 1,000 yard plus Pdogs. This being the case I would use one of these powders: H or IMR 4350, IMR 4831 or H 4831 SC. I has Hart Rifle Barrels build my 6.5/284 for this very purpose, and it is an amazing cartridge/rifle combination at ranges to 1 mile! Accuracy should be better than what you quote however and I would start with the 4350 and Sierra 142, Berger 140 then the Hornady 140 A-Max. The Bergers for me flew noticably flatter when shooting beyond 1,500 yards. The Sierra's were the most consistant, the A-Max's best on flesh. Something for everyone in that! My velocity was in excess of 3,000 ft/sec's as the barrel is 28 inches, and the load is up there. Use a chronograph and demand single digt SD's for this type of shooting. A very easy way to prove the necessity of this is to use a ballistic program and look at the drop differences between two loads with all other factors except initial velocity being the same. make the difference small, like 15 ft/sec's... It's an eye opener.

Last piece of advice is to shoot over if you are going to miss, and shoot as quickly as possible to maintain the temporary wind condition you have. I also learned that a bipod even off the bench helped greatly in eliminating cant which can be a factor at extended distances. Do something to cushin the bipod legs and the bench interface.

Good luck and good shooting.

Thanks for the replies!

I started w/ H4350 and ran the ladder with that with no real success. I called Cooper they gave me a load of 47 grains of RL22 w/ 140 grain Serria. That was OK but still not what I felt it could do. My chrono is being repaired so I'm waiting for that before I continue. I am shooting off a bench with sandbags so I have a nice solid foundation. I'm starting to run the ladder with the RL 22 and see how I make out there.

I was having problems w/ my 40X 22.250 but after reading some posts here, I switch to 36.5 of Varget and a 55 gr Nosler BT and have had success! Now it just a matter of geting my chrono back, and some decent weather.

I had good success w/ the BLC2 in my 308 and happen to have alot of it on the shelf, Thats why I thought maybe I could use it in the 6.5, but I see that is not the direction to go.

One other question though, I've read that a barrel has 2 velocity 'sweet' spots in it. Which is where the best groups will come from. If that is the case and you find the velocity that your gun likes, can you use a different powder to acheive the same velocity and get the same accurate results???


Thanks,

Arrccod/Bill

Arrccod,

On the 2 sweet spot idea, and alternate powder: That is a tenative yes as it is velocity based with the caviat that what is really being discussed is barrel time and the nodes relative stillness. This is why a barrel may favor a single powder. The weight of the charge and the time in the barrel (exact time of release at muzzle) effecting the muzzle girations.

I did not see where you answered about the expected range for your usage (Pdogs) and might suggest that if you were to be shooting lighter bullets (like 107 MK's) that the BLC2 might work. Sort of a great big 22/250. I would note that in my limited experience when shooting Pdogs in decent wind conditions (15 -25 MPH) that to ranges of 650/700 yards the lighter faster bullets in my 6 Rem 40X were superior to the heavies.

Hope that helps Bill...

It's been nearly 40 years since the PA troopers asked me to leave Scranton... it (she) was worth it!

Oops! I'm taking 3 guns, 1 a Ruger race gun 10/22 for out to 100yds #2 gun will be the 40X 22.250 out to 500 yds and #3 will be a Cooper 6.5X284 for everything farther. I was kind of hung on the 140 grain bullets for the fact if that was what the factory was using it must be the correct bullet for the barrel twist.

The choice of BLC2 powder was for more of a convience, for the fact its sitting on the shelf. If you were to tell me that XYZ powder @ $50 per pound would be the majic powder to shoot 1 hole groups the money would not be an issue.

The problem with my load development has been there has been no real sigmificant gain in accuracy. My Gunsmith friend has told me that I'm looking for the Holy Grail and what the gun is doing now is good enough. With 3 of us going out for the PD's there are bragging rights involved. So I always like any advantage I can get!

Talking to my late father........I asked him what was Scranton known for He always said Railroads, Coal Mines, Bars and Whorehouses!

Arrccod/Bill

Actually the lady was in attendence at Marywood!

Now as to the holy grail load, and distance... Most F-class shooters are into the H4350 and IMR 4350 and the 139-142 grain bullets. I find it hard to believe that the Cooper will not shoot better than what you have said, knowing the cartridge and having one Cooper. I should think that 1/2 MOA is not out of the question and better is possible. There becomes the question about what scope, and what is the best group you as a shooter has ever fired? Some basis for comparison of this rifle in other words. I shoot in my HART barreled 6.5/284 turned neck, neck sized only in bushing dies, concentric to .002 loads. All powder charges are weighed on 2 scales! Brass is sorted by weight as well. In short anything I have ever learned to make a rifle shoot. My test loads at 100 yards were consistantly under .25" for 3 round groups.

The below Cooper in .243 AI only shoots one load really well. Yes that is a 5 shot group, range 100 yards, scope 12X Leupold. I shot the fouler, then the 4 slightly right. Readjusted my position and hold... and almost choked. While not the best ever group... ain't shabby. Perhaps your rifle is that picky also. Good luck!

Well as far as Scope is concerned its a Leupold 6.5-20 i don't think that is an issue. As far as weighing the brass and etc..... I shot NRA Action and IPSC for a while and kind of got burned out. Though I was able to make Master Class there was to much time and energy expended. I have a family and a second family (called a Business) with takes up most my time. Also with the fact that I want to take 500 rds of ammo just for the 6.5....i really don't want to buy a 1000 rounds of brass and cull through them. This Praire Poodle thing has gotten my interest back in shooting and I don't wnat to over due it and make it a chore. I understand the amount of work and accuracy with the ammo required to get it to shoot well.....I was probably looking for and easy answer or simple solution. My Bad! It could always be as simple as the guy behind the trigger too! Anyway I really appreciate all the advice...and when we get a break in the weather here...I'll post some pics of targets ...maybe that will help.

Now as far as Marywood.....that ain't even in Scranton .....thats in the Hollywood section of Dunmore! Its good to see you went for a smart one!

Arrccod/Bill

Thought I'd repost this here....seems ppl here are more willing to help....instead of trying to be the class clown........


Posted 24 January 2007 23:11
I've been tryin to get my rifle to shoot well and noticed there may be another problem involved. I now where glasses and have noticed w/ my Leupold 6.5-20 that if I have the bell set @ 100yds....and make a focus adjustment from the rear of the scope I just can't get it sharp enough. I can focus from the bell to get it sharp but it then seems either the target is sharp or the cross hairs are sharp...but not both. If I split the difference both images get blury when I stare at them to make my shot. I think this has been part of my accuracy problem.

What am I doing wrong and what can I do to correct this....or is this my eyes just getting old and tired??? Could this be a scope thing? I have 2 Leupolds 6.5-20 one is about 10 yrs newer than the other and have this problem with both.

Thanks
Arrccod/Bill

Feared by all. Respected by none.

Hey Bill it's me again... Have a similiar problem with my higher magnification Leupolds as well. It appears to be based upon my declining eyesight. I have called Leupold and explained that I could get a good focus with my reading glasses, but not with my distance glasses. I am nearsighted etc... I am approaching the point where I have nearly backed the ocular off the tube! The euro fast focus systems seem to work perfectly for me with my distance glasses, while staying near the middle of the adjustment range! So I have also had a special pair of glasss made with an intermediate focus, for iron sights and pistols. They work better in the Leupold scopes as well.

The last point I would make is to be sure to follow Leupold's instructions on focusing the scope. Usually the crosshair/reticle is done against the sky, and parallax is done with the objective bell. I would of course set the objective at infinity before doing the ocular.

Hope that helps.

Dave

hey thanks Dave....thats all i was lookin for when I went to adjust the reticle focus I didn't have the bell on Infinity....I'll try that.

Thanks
Arrccod/Bill

308sako........bingo....that solved the scope problem! Still waitin for some good weather...and my chrono!

Thanks

Bill

An update.....after repeated tries at different bullets, different powders, bullet wts, types, seating depths. After discussion w/ my best friend/personal gunsmith....a call to the Cooper factory was made. I discribed my problem...that the gun wasn't shooting any better than 1 3/8's @ 100yds..... told them I have been shooting .250 groups w/ my 40x (so they know its not me)....they were genuinely concerned and told me to ship the rifle back.

The journey continues........


Arrccod/Bill

Bill this is good news and they will make it right. Great company and as you know things can happen. Once you get to unleash a super accurate 6.5/284 at varmints way out there you will feel the reward of your choices and efforts. I look forward to your next post on this rifle.

Well just to update....I had sent my Cooper back they had it for about 3-4 weeks. Everyone was terrific....though as much as they got it right the second time...they should have got it right the 1st. Perhaps a discount or something to make up for the lost time. I hate to be too whiney....but in few jobs do you get the pat on the back for getting it right the 2nd time....your lucky to get a shot at the first time!

Anyway here the target I shot today......



...thats a 3 shot group @ 200 yds! not much over a 1/2"! Finally I can settle in and get ready for the PD hunt. I do thank the people @ Cooper for straightening things out. They ended up lapping the barrel and recutting the crown.

On another note I had a Pact Timer w/ built in Chrono I had bought about about 15yrs ago. Been in the bottom of the Gun cabinet for the last 10 yrs (luckely I took the battery out).... anyway went to use it..put a fresh battery in and nothing! I went to the Pact website got the # and called. They said it had a lifetime guarentee.....just include $10 for return shipping and they would fix it. I sent that off and about 2 months later they sent me a Brand New Timer/Chrono..... no charge! It great to know there are still Great American Companies the Do what they say....and say what they do! How could you not recommend them to everybody?


Arrccod