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... a 700 Varmint rifle something that a "handy" first timer can do well - or is a gunsmith called for? Who sells the best materials/instructions for this? And ... How far forward of the recoil lug have any of you went with the epoxy? Finally ... Did you remove any stock material from around the inletting, besides the recoil lug and pillar areas? TIA TBC [ 08-30-2003, 16:56: Message edited by: The Birth Controller ] | ||
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Brownells markets a product called AcraGlas gel that is pretty easy to work with. Glassing an action isn't too bad, depending on your talents. I've done several and the results get cosmetically better as you go. Structurally speaking, it's not hard at all to just get the job done. Everyone has their own way, I do it in three parts. First a portion of the bearing surface, then the balance of the bearing surface, then a final "skin bedding" to fill any small voids and dress the exposed edges. The epoxy seems to have no problem bonding to itself, so multiple applications aren't a problem. If you get a minor screw up, dig it out and do it again. Instructions come with the kit, and are also available elsewhere. Main thing: Make SURE you have applied release agent to all parts you anticipate separating from the epoxy later. | |||
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Thanks eshell! I'm also looking at this one. Has VERY good instructions - seems like a good buy. Know anyone that's used this Score High Kit? I'm not real sure whether I "need" a glass bed or a pillar bed or both. When I showed this pic to several shooters, they said do both. Mike TBC | |||
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TBC, I use accuglas gel from Brownells. It's very user friendly. Don't use the release agent that comes with the kit, use a paste wax or cooking spray. I have never pillar bedded a rifle, can't help you there. Rem. 222 | |||
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Rem .222, what is the reason you don't use the included release agent? I,ve done two guns and helped do another three for someone else using the supplied release agent and have not had any problems. Is it ease of applying, clean up, or something else? Thanks for the info. | |||
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Redsplatter, My experience with the release agent is when applied as per instructions it's to thick. You don't get a skin tight bedding job when the release agent is removed. I use a light coat of Johnsons paste wax, it's much easier to apply and the bedding fits the action much tighter.I have also had the release agent discolor the bluing. Rem. 222 | |||
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I have bedded both a Rem 700 25-06 in a wooden stock and a custom Tikka 595 22-250 ackley in a Mcmillan stock. I used a product called Devcon for both it has minute granules of stainless steel mixed in the epoxy and is extremely strong. I think it available in the states? The quaterbore was bedded only in devcon but the Mcmillan was pillar bedded as well. I took my instructions off www.varminthunters.com/tech/pillar.html Both rifles are Very, Very accurate, shoe polish works very well as a release agent - you can't use too much. Tip, if you do it yourself and anyone with modest diy skills shouldhave no trouble, read the instructions carefully and do not rush. AM | |||
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where does a guy find johnsons paste wax? ... say in canada? | |||
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I guess I'll be the grinch on this topic. I have half a dozen rifles that have ben glass bedded over the years. They've all been done by gunsmiths. It's not that I feel incompetent, just that I insist on it being done correctly. You can screw this job up if you're not careful. For example, get your mix wrong, and you've got one hell of a mess, ditto for getting it where it doesn't belong. For you venturesome souls more power to you. For the rest, have an expert do it. Best wishes. Cal - Montreal | |||
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Pillars for the action and then glass bed the barrel channel...how far and how much you use would be dependent on the size of the barrel. The heavier and longer the barrel, the more of it that should be supported by the glass bedding. | |||
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Glass bedding an action is rather simple, but pillar bedding is a little more difficult, as it requires drilling out the screw holes large enough to accomodate the pillars. The holes have to be straight, and the pillars have to be installed so they fit flush with the action. A final skin coat of glass is usually required on the pillars. I've glassed about a dozen or so rifles and repaired a few stocks using acraglas, acraglas gel, micro bed, and marine-tex, depening on what I was trying to do. I would suggest that you try it on a "beater" or an old .22 first just to get your feet wet, and I would suggest that you start with acraglas gel. Here is a link or two to help you with your project. Bedding the stock Glass Bedding products [ 08-27-2003, 22:08: Message edited by: Pa.Frank ] | |||
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Ben, A couple tips. Use a piloted counterbore to open up the mounting bolt holes to 5/8". There is VERY little room for error when drilling these. The pillars need to fall into the stock with no bind whatsoever. This usually requires some filing/sanding, says Score High. When enlarging the freshly drilled 5/8" holes, be mindful that there is VERY little room for error here, as well. It's terribly easy to open the holes too much to where it shows around the trigger guard/floor plate and the tang. Mike quote: [ 08-29-2003, 08:13: Message edited by: The Birth Controller ] | |||
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<Ben H> |
TBC; Thanks for the tips. I will definately keep 'em in mind. Ben H | ||
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