I plan on having Santa get me all of my reloading supplies this Christmas which means I'm still shooting the facorty stuff and collecting brass. What is the best factory 22-250 for the money??? I've been shooting the Remington UMC, which I know is at the bottom of the barrel. They group real nice at 100 yards, but when we shot at 350 yrds this weekend.....YIKES!!!!! From what I gather, it seems that the Hornady v-max is pretty hard to beat. What do you guys think, what grain and why?? Thanks! P.S. Is shooting any kind of a hollow point at 300+ yards a waste of time???? Thanks again!

P.S.S. I'm shooting a new Savage 12BVSS

Firstly welcome to AR dubs22-250.
You will get plently of good info here.

This is just my 2c, but finding that "sweet" load is a experimenting with different powder charges, bullet types, jump to LANS, primer types etc.
With all that being said I will bet you ya bollocks to a barn dance that someone here would have done all the hard work for you with that type of rifle! No two factory rifles are created equal but they will be pretty close.

Buy the Factory ammo for running it in and for the brass, thats what a mate did with his Tikka T3 Varmiter 22-250, factroy stuff was a complete waste of money for that rifle, I ended up using a PMC brass, Nosler 50 gr BT, Federal LR primer, and ADI 2206H powder(GRs escape me sorry) with .05 jump to LANS, it turned into a tack driver!

As for the hollow point, match bullets are hollow points,and as I have recently found out the embarresing way light bullets are not all ways the best, sure they go like snot off a rooster lip but they slow down just as quick!!and they are more likely to be affected by wind.

IMO it dosnt matter really about bullet drop(with in reason!!) so long as you know where exactly that bullet is going to drop in to every time you will have dead dogs!!

Good luck with it, you are in the right place to get it sorted.

Regards Runas

dubs,
welcome to our forum!
your starting out just fine,try some federal premium ammo 55 gr.boatails,either sierra nosler or speer.hornadys v-max is also super accurate. cograts on your savage 12 bvss its a tack-driver. hp''s are very accurate 52,53,55, 60 grainers. read all you can on re-loading cross reference reloading manuals .
you''ll get out of it what you put into it.
happy shooting and reloading
regards

quote:

Originally posted by jjmp:
dubs,
welcome to our forum!
your starting out just fine,try some federal premium ammo 55 gr.boatails,either sierra nosler or speer.hornadys v-max is also super accurate. cograts on your savage 12 bvss its a tack-driver. hp''s are very accurate 52,53,55, 60 grainers. read all you can on re-loading cross reference reloading manuals .
you''ll get out of it what you put into it.
happy shooting and reloading
regards

Ditto on the above.

Well as for myself.. I'd skip shooting factory stuff just to get the brass.. I'd just buy me 500 rounds of brass....

I mean if you have to do it that way, at least if you are looking for some tight shooting and you are getting a reload kit...

get yourself a bullet puller.. pull the factory bullets off, if they are generic, and then try re install the bullets you desire to use...

note the powder charges and how consistent the volume is and how little or how much it may vary...

if you find some good shooting loads.. then you should be able to duplicate them with the bullets you desire to shoot...

your Savage should be a very accurate rifle.. therefore I wouldn't worry too much about it doing well.....

But buying factory ammo, and then pulling the bullets and installing something better on the brass and making the loads consistent.. that is something easy to do at times...

like picking up Remington 150 grain bullets in a 30/06, and then pulling the bullets, making the powder volume consistent and then reseating Ballistic Tips or Partitions instead...

That is the cheapest way to get some good "factory loads" with a premium bullet of your choice without the premium factory ammo price...