What is the most efficient knife sharpening equipment? Thanks in advance, Hector

Human hands, stones, and strops.

+ 1 Gato !

I have tried all ways - my choice is EDGE PRO APEX model. A little spendy but wonderful for fine knives. I have had mine for about 20 years. And yeah I can sharpen on a stone too.
Crf

quote:

Originally posted by H�ctor Carlos Roveda:
What is the most efficient knife sharpening equipment? Thanks in advance, Hector

The local Tyson chicken factory uses Warthog sharpeners

quote:

Originally posted by Gatogordo:
Human hands, stones, and strops.

That's a given. But, I'm sure he was asking for friendly recommendations regarding good, quality, brands that MAYBE you MIGHT know of. IMO, nothing wrong with passing along a little friendly advice...

If you want to efficient I would recommend a Sypderco sharpmker. Easy to use and fast.

I like DMT diamond hones. Here's a video of Daniel Crotts of Dozier Knives using them. Hope it helps.

Knife Sharpening

Lee

As of last week, let me add my name to the Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpmaker. Put Gato on that list as well. I've seen him use it, and he got me to using it.

The Spyderco comes with an instructional CD and a very easy to follow manual. The hardest part about the unit, is getting it out of the packaging. I was rolling around on the ground. I used my teeth. I sharpened a knife so that I could cut into the packaging. It was a struggle, but I finally got it freed from its plastic prison.

Then you have to learn to put the triangle shaped "peg" in the triangle shaped hole. Sounds simple. Gets easier with use.

Once you get it assembled with safety guards it looks like something you sit on top your TV to get better reception, or walk around with outside to discover water sources on your property.

I watched the CD first. (It was very easy to tell that the blonde was really into me.)

There were only two things I disbelieved in the instruction.

1) The admonishment to never use the Spyderco above waist level. I feel more in control sharpening a knife at waist level or slightly above.

2) There was a comment in the video that you automatically sharpen the knife at the same angle with a Spyderco. That is only true if you hold the knife exactly vertical, or at the identical angle every time you stroke the stones. The Spyderco does not control the angle of the stroke like a LoRay does.

I like that other tools can be easily sharpened with the Spyderco.

I also have and use a LoRay manual sharpener. With that device you do get a consistent angle of stroke.

I feel like the Spyderco produces a sharp edge faster than a LoRay. I'm running a side-by-side test, sharpening one hunting knife with my LoRay and one with my Spyderco. The knives are made by the same manufacturer, using the same steel.

Yesterday, after sharpening my wife's knives with the Spyderco, I found her in the kitchen "re-sharpening" them on a Wusthof manual sharpener. Lesson Learned - Tell your wife you've sharpened her knives before she screws-up the edge.

I sharpened my hunting knife yesterday on a DMT diamond stone. It's a 2 sided coarse/fine bench setup. I quit after using the coarse side because I felt it was sharp enough for a hunting knife. I free handed the knife because I can keep a consistent angle after 70 years of practice. I carry a small folding DMT coarse stone for use in the field. The diamond stones sure beat the hell out other abrasives of which I have, up to hard Arkansas.

Dave

quote:

Originally posted by Ram Rod:

quote:

Originally posted by Gatogordo:
Human hands, stones, and strops.

That's a given. But, I'm sure he was asking for friendly recommendations regarding good, quality, brands that MAYBE you MIGHT know of. IMO, nothing wrong with passing along a little friendly advice...

Well I note that in your snarky reply, you didn't mention any items or brands "that MAYBE you MIGHT know of", so the original poster thanks you for your enlightenment.

Stones: Most knife makers use a Norton Combination stone costing around $20: Norton 614636855653 IB8 1-by-2-by-8-Inch Fine/Coarse. The advantage to this stone is that it is really good for really dull knives and the coarse grit can remove a lot of steel in a hurry. The disadvantage is that the user has to learn to keep his wrist in the same position on each stroke. Sounds a lot simpler than it is in practice.

In addition to the Norton Stone, if you REALLY want sharp, get some Illinois Razor Strops, which will cost around $40. There are other types where you put grinding compound on them, that are probably excellent, but I haven't used them.

Finally as mentioned above by Kensco, I am a big believer in the Spyderco Sharpmaker, which continually gets more expensive, now in the mid 60 buck range, and is worth it. The problem with it is that the "medium" grit stones that it comes with do not remove steel very fast and it takes a very LONG time to sharpen a really dull knife, especially if it has a thicker blade profile. All that said, highly recommended if you're able to hit your blade on it after use. It is superb for maintaining a very fine edge, BUT don't let that edge get really dull or you will have some serious TV time to resharpen it. One of the major suppliers usually has a "Christmas" sale with 25% off everything on site. Good time to stock up on Sharpmakers as they make superb gifts for the sharpening impaired. Also can be found on ebay quite cheap and barring broken stones cannot really be damaged.

There are some that MAYBE would work that I MIGHT know something about how to use. I've been sharpening knives since I was about 4, seriously ground down my first case pocket knife, but after enough strokes, I'm long past the MAYBE stage and think I KNOW what I'm talking about.

quote:

Yesterday, after sharpening my wife's knives with the Spyderco, I found her in the kitchen "re-sharpening" them on a Wusthof manual sharpener. Lesson Learned - Tell your wife you've sharpened her knives before she screws-up the edge.

Ummm, soley based on past experiences, I am putting my money on your wife. She wasn't "screwing up the edge", she was trying to produce one.

Of course, pigs can be taught to sing, and MAYBE the Spyderco Sharpmaker has taught you how to sharpen a knife, but I'm still waiting to hold a Kensco sharpened knife in my hand that can successfully cut warm butter.

Nothing personal Ken. At least you've managed to kill or seriously scare most pigs you run on. Of course, you then have nothing capable of skinning them but Randy is around, lucky for bofus.

I have a 2X72" belt sander that I use for barrel polishing that works very well. A very dull 320 grit belt and a light grind on both sides followed with a quick pass on a buffing wheel puts a shaving sharp edge on a knife in about 30 seconds. While very sharp, it does not produce as durable of an edge IMO, but it is quick and handy.

I also have the Spyderco system Gato mentions and it works very well and I think produces a longer lasting edge.

these work well here in New Zealand - expensive but live up to the name
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sdZeQ7GcUDQ

Yikes!

His hands moved over that blade edge an awful lot as he flipped the device and as he loosened the blade at the end. A lot of years in the oil industry where safety was paramount makes my skin crawl watching that. I'll stay with Spyderco or LoRay.

Kind of like a Loray on steroids. Certainly looks like it would work, but that's a lot of stuff to handle and adjust for the desired end. Looks expensive, too. How much do they cost in US$s?

G

Your comment about the LoRay on drugs was exactly my thought when I first saw it.

I've got a basic question for you. What is your true indicator of sharpness? What tells you that you're done? I usually stop when it feels like the blade is catching every groove in my thumbprint, but is there a better indicator?

I don't have an answer, it's either sharp or it ain't. Really sharp is when it can cut a standing hair with no resistance. I'm not sure you can get there with a sharpmaker without using a strop. But "really sharp" is nearly razor blade sharp and is not suitable for most normal knife uses. It will dull too quickly.

One has to consider what one is going to be using the edge for when sharpening. S30V, for instance, because of the carbides won't feel as sharp as some other steels but will cut meat effectively longer. It just depends on what steel you're working with and, of course, the hardness (temper). For my purposes, which is general ranch use, and pig/deer skinning. I get my blades what I consider good and sharp on the medium grit Shpmaker and then LIGHTLY run it up and down the fine grits about 20 times per side and that's it for me. At that point, if the whole edge doesn't feel sharp with the thumb test, then it needs more work on the medium grit or an India Stone.

The quest for most efficient probably throws my comments out the door.

I was taught that with a new or dull blade start with a mill bastard file. With a new blade you made sure the edge was straight. You then progress to soft and then hard stones and finish with the strop.

The key is to not let your blade get too dull before sharpening. Don't let someone who thinks a knife blade is a multi-tool use it. I can get a blade pretty sharp with a file. I don't always go beyond the file. I have never used a strop.

Tom

quote:

Originally posted by muzza:
these work well here in New Zealand - expensive but live up to the name
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sdZeQ7GcUDQ

I have one of those muzza and it is indeed a very good system.

I know the guy who makes them , and have the early version of his product. It isnt called ScarySharp for nothing

Looks like a good system but at $347 US for US citizens, I think I'll have to pass.

It looks like a Lansky (which I have) on steroids. My Lansky works well and I use it when I can. For most of my quicker sharpening, I use my Work Sharp.

There is a new set of stones for the scary sharp system that I was testing for Geoff and have kept one for ongoing use as it was/is an inprovment on the finer end of the set that came with the unit.

I picked up some additional rods for my Spyderco on Amazon. A finer grit set and a diamond set for when I need to cut more steel.

Try a Warthog Sharpener. You'll never look back.

I know they are pricey but the Wicked Edge sure works for those of us not competent to sharpen free hand.

The apparent complexity of sharpening a knife using a stone always surprises me. It literally ain't rocket science and a moment's thought should allow one to understand the key is maintaining the same grip/knife edge to stone angle repeatedly. Even a Casper Milktoast should have the wrist strength to do so. Simply don't let your hand flop around like a dying fish and you will shortly have a decent angle on stone. I see u tubes, pic how tos that show some people sharpen on stones by pushing the blade, that would probably work just as well if one maintains same angles, but, I have always done it by pulling blade across stone, first toward and then away from user. To each his own. It helps to have stone anchored in some kind of holder. Easily made out of wood scraps.

quote:

Originally posted by Gatogordo:
The apparent complexity of sharpening a knife using a stone always surprises me. It literally ain't rocket science and a moment's thought should allow one to understand the key is maintaining the same grip/knife edge to stone angle repeatedly. Even a Casper Milttoast should have the wrist strength to do so. Simply don't let your hand flop around like a dying fish and you will shortly have a decent angle on stone. I see u tubes, pic how tos that show some people sharpen on stones by pushing the blade, that would probably work just as well if one maintains same angles, but, I have always done it by pulling blade across stone, first toward and then away from user. To each his own. It helps to have stone anchored in some kind of holder. Easily made out of wood scraps.

Couldn't agree more. The most difficult thing about sharpening on a stone is learning how to lock your wrist.