I got an LL Bean "tri stone" at a tag sale. It has three stones mounted together so each side can be turned in the cradle. One coarse gray, one reddish and one whiteish. The stones are each about 2x7".

First I can't really tell which is the finer, red or white. Secondly they all seem to be glazed over, pores all clogged up so the grey will cut a little but the red and white not at all. It still had the original honing oil with it and it seemed to be a light fine oil.

How do I remedy this or is it too late?

I also have a large Carborundum 3x12", fine on ne side and coarse on the other. I have begun to get a depression in the middle of the fine side so when I sharpen the balde is not contacting across the full face of the stone. Any way to rectify this?

Thanks, Rob

The tri-hone, can you remove the stones from the holder? If not, no biggie, mix up some powdered dishwasher detergent, a couple tablespoons in some hot water, enough to cover the stones, and soak for a day. Next evening, help your wife do the dishes and sneak the stones into the dishwasher when she isn't looking. Make sure you select "no heat dry". It does a great job of deglazing fine stones.

I've never had to resurface a carborundum stone, but need to do it to waterstones occasionally. I just put a piece of 80 grit sandpaper down and rub until it is flat, then hit it with some 120 grit to smooth it up a little. Using it will take care of the rest.

Resurfacing is done one of two ways depending on the fineness of the stone itself.

For coarse silcon carbide stones ... hold on to your hat ... get a bucket of water, locate a piece of flat concrete, and figure 8 grind the stone until it is flat enough.

For finer stones use silicon carbide grit suspended in oil on a thick glass plate and do the same thing ... figure 8 grind it by hand.

I really like ceramic stones that are so hard they really don't wear and can be cleaned with a severe detergent, a tooth brush, and hot water ;>

"I really like ceramic stones that are so hard they really don't wear and can be cleaned with a severe detergent, a tooth brush, and hot water ;>Wink"

That's how hard these are.

Thnaks to all for the help.

Rob

Well I gave each side an overnight soak in TSP, then brushed it with a small wire brush and that seems to not only removed the glaze but also all the oil. Water no longer beads on the surface but soaks in.

Would I be better off using water from now on?

Also, which is finer, the reddish marbeled stone or the white stone? It seems like the white is finer but figured I'd ask to be sure. The reddish stone seems to have some variations in texture also.


Thanks, Rob

What is TSP you soaked your stones in?

TSP is tri-sodium-phosphate, available in hardware stores. It's a powder that you dissolve in water to make a heavy duty degreasing solution. Painters use it clean walls before painting, it's good for stripping floors, etc.

Isn't Fud supposed to have 2 D's?

Rob

I like oil except on ceramic or japanese stones. I like to use ATF mixed 50/50 with mineral spirits (paint thinner).

Go ahead and try them with water, if they seem to load up let them dry and switch to oil.

IMHO you should do yourself a favor and try and Japanese Waterstone. I have tried about every different type of stone and I've always been able to get far superior results with waterstones. Woodcraft or Japan Woodworker sells a King combination 1000/6000 grit stone for under $30 that should give you far better results that what you've been trying..........DJ

So how do you guys keep your edge angle constant on your sharpening stones?

OK, I'll get a waterstone and give it a try.

One more question, what's the drill with leather and Flitz after fina grinding?

I assume it's akin to stropping but what's the exact procedure?

Thanks, Rob

Rob, the white one is the finer grade.

As far as stropping it is in fact typically using leather and some polish for the final polishing of the edge. There are many different styles for stropping an edge but you need to try to keep the edge square to the leather and use the same amount of strokes for each side of the edge.

quote:

Originally posted by Fish30114:
There are many different styles for stropping an edge but you need to try to keep the edge square to the leather and use the same amount of strokes for eac white one is the finer gradeh side of the edge.

Square as in directly across the leather, 90Ëš? Do you lift the spine of the knife at all? How many strokes to a side?



Thanks, Rob

quote:

First I can't really tell which is the finer, red or white. Secondly they all seem to be glazed over, pores all clogged up so the grey will cut a little but the red and white not at all. It still had the original honing oil with it and it seemed to be a light fine oil.

Try putting a spoon full of dish soap in a pot of water and bring it to a boil. Put the stones in and you won't belive how much crud comes out of the stone.