The Accurate Reloading Forums THE ACCURATE RELOADING.COM FORUMS Other Topics Knives and Knife Making My first stab at knifemakingGo | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply | |
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I've always wanted to give it a try, so last winter I ordered a kit from knifekits.com, and dug out an old piece of walnut laying around. It didn't turn out perfect, but I'm happy with it for a first attempt. I also made the sheateh, but I make holsters, belts, etc., so that wasn't anything new. I'm glad I found this forum, and I look forward to learning from you all. Greg  | ||
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Sorry. I'm not quite sure how the 99 Savage picture got here. | |||
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Well done! | |||
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Knife - nice Sheath - really nice | |||
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I like it. Very nice lines and a cooooool sheath. | |||
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looks good to me Mike Legistine actu quod scripsi? Never under estimate the internet community's ability to reply to your post with their personal rant about their tangentially related, single occurrence issue.  What I have learned on AR, since 2001: 1. The proper answer to: Where is the best place in town to get a steak dinner? is…You should go to Mel's Diner and get the fried chicken. 2. Big game animals can tell the difference between .015 of an inch in diameter, 15 grains of bullet weight, and 150 fps. 3. There is a difference in the performance of two identical projectiles launched at the same velocity if they came from different cartridges. 4. While a double rifle is the perfect DGR, every 375HH bolt gun needs to be modified to carry at least 5 down. 5. While a floor plate and detachable box magazine both use a mechanical latch, only the floor plate latch is reliable. Disregard the fact that every modern military rifle uses a detachable box magazine. 6. The Remington 700 is unreliable regardless of the fact it is the basis of the USMC M40 sniper rifle for 40+ years with no changes to the receiver or extractor and is the choice of more military and law enforcement sniper units than any other rifle. 7. PF actions are not suitable for a DGR and it is irrelevant that the M1, M14, M16, & AK47 which were designed for hunting men that can shoot back are all PF actions. 8. 95 deg F in Africa is different than 95 deg F in TX or CA and that is why you must worry about ammunition temperature in Africa (even though most safaris take place in winter) but not in TX or in CA. 9. The size of a ding in a gun's finish doesn't matter, what matters is whether it’s a safe ding or not. 10. 1 in a row is a trend, 2 in a row is statistically significant, and 3 in a row is an irrefutable fact. 11. Never buy a WSM or RCM cartridge for a safari rifle or your go to rifle in the USA because if they lose your ammo you can't find replacement ammo but don't worry 280 Rem, 338-06, 35 Whelen, and all Weatherby cartridges abound in Africa and back country stores. 12. A well hit animal can run 75 yds. in the open and suddenly drop with no initial blood trail, but the one I shot from 200 yds. away that ran 10 yds. and disappeared into a thicket and was not found was lost because the bullet penciled thru. I am 100% certain of this even though I have no physical evidence. 13. A 300 Win Mag is a 500 yard elk cartridge but a 308 Win is not a 300 yard elk cartridge even though the same bullet is travelling at the same velocity at those respective distances. | |||
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Do you have a brochure or website on your sheathmaking? | |||
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No sir, I sure don't. I make a few holsters and belts as a hobby, and sell a few when asked. I've sold a few sheaths as well. | |||
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Greg, Well done sir, well done! Where are you in TN? Jim | |||
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I'm in Lafayette, about 60 miles northeast of Nashville. Dall85, you might enjoy another forum; tngunowners.com. There are many fine people there, and a lot from the memphis area. | |||
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Here are a couple more knifekits I've done.   I can sure see why you guys enjoy making them. It would be nice to have an oven to do your own heat treating. | |||
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Greg, just a question on your sheath. Do you usually make them with so much of the handle exposed. In a hunting situation especially, I like to have about 2/3 of the handle in the sheath (unless there is a security strap of some kind) as an aid to knife retention against the many ways of loosing one that frequent the great outdoors. Nice work on both items all the same. | |||
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That was my first attempt. I agree that more coverage would probably be better, but I molded the sheath to te knife, and retention is still pretty good. I've worn it hunting all this season, and it has stayed put thus far. Thanks for looking and for the pointer. Any further suggestions are more than welcome. | |||
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good blade choice. did you get the Cryo quenched version???? he he........here's my version with some aussie Ringed Gidgee as the handle scales.  I don't wear my skinners , so the shank of the sheath is short, the strap is for security in the pack. I make a thin 'wraparound' polycarbonate blade protector to attach inside the sheath .  I like the depth of blade in that particular model and also like the ability to get the forefinger up on the blade with comfort for the fiddly little jobs. Its current mate in the pack (always 2 knives minimum), is a shorter S30V blade with a not dissimilar general shape .  ( lousy pic the wood colouration looks far nicer in real life ). | |||
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Yes, Dennis. That appears to be the same blade; Cryo treated AUS-8. Your handles are beautiful. I don't see any pins?!??!? How are they attached? I was afraid I'd screw mine up, so I used some plain walnut I had lying around. I now wish I'd have used something better looking. | |||
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the first requirement of a knife handle material is that its serviceable. How fancy the wood is & what type of grain pattern rocks your boat is a secondary issue. same deal with blade steels. " function before form" the arty side of knifemaking gets very addictive tho. I like mine with clean lines letting the wood in the handle speak for itself. the pins are there...........they are just recessed into the inside of the handle scales to hide them. ( same basic way the S/steel bolster was attached on your knife). The trick with fullwood handles is to shape the profile of the front "bolster" edge , taper the front edge of the scales & fine sand them before you attach the scale blocks to the tang. You can then shape the handle to within 1/16" of the front edge without scratching the blade (with the blade edges covered in masking tape). Now that you have your first one done, you know what is involved and have gained confidence in what to do. He He .......knife scales can be removed relatively easily if you decide to have another go with the same blade. I think I remade my first DIY knife (many years ago) several times trying different things & seeing what I liked for scales as I developed my technique and confidence. If you ever want to have a go at replacing your scales I can give you some tips to help dealing with the glue you used ( epoxy & CA have different techniques..........or at least I use different techniques). Here's a couple of kitchen knifes I have just done for my eldest son as a birthday present, again using Ringed Gidgee for the handle scales. 8" chefs knife  6" cooks knife  | |||
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Thanks a lot for the tips. I believe I'll leave it like it is, but I can always make another! | |||
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The Accurate Reloading Forums THE ACCURATE RELOADING.COM FORUMS Other Topics Knives and Knife Making My first stab at knifemaking
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