What do you think about that ? It is something between Strider, Reeve and Simonich design, as simple as it should be, handle will be paracord (like on striders). Steel will be Bohler K390, K890 Microclean with advanced coating (Balinit Triton or DLC Star)or M390 with or without coating, maybe, I will make some in summer (profile by CNC water beam, edge cut by CNC miller), hand finished. Heat treated in computer controlled vacuum furnace. It is designed to be non destructible, able to cut wood, dig foxholes, prise etc.

Jiri

Very Nice !!!

Let me know how can I get one for me (no kidding !)

Excellent straightforward design , no gimmicks ! I much prefer a straight handle and drop point blade.Looks like a 6" [150mm] blade.I have no personal experience with those steels but all are Particle Metallurgy type which gives better toughness and easier to grind too.I would not choose K390 as it has far more alloying elements than necessary for a knife. K890 and M390 would be better choices.Handles ?? micarta, G10,stabilized wood ? Keep us informed !

That looks like one great knife
I want one
I like the para wrap and made a knife with that handle last year. Easy job and it works great. You should also make some with micarta for the "collectors" Maybe make some finger grooves like on the Randall #14 fighting knife, a classic military design.

Why not a full flat grind? The knife would feel lighter and cut better

You must have access to some great machinery

Keep us up to speed on the project

Cheers,

André

Q:Why not a full flat grind? The knife would feel lighter and cut better

A:Because full flat grind give too low edge angle (for maximum strength purposes). But when profile of knife is water cut then it is free to choose angle of edge.

Handles will be primary paracord, but micarta (or similar material) should be possible of course.

"You must have access to some great machinery"

Here in Czech Rep. are few companies with CNC water beam at it is not much expensive, especially, if you give them .dwg file. CNC vertical and horizontal millers own my good friend, vacuum furnaces are in what I know two factories making cutting and milling tools, I have contacts in both.But the most expensive is coating, with the best "world aviable" it should be really high, so the easy way is to make knife from stainless steel (M390) and give it non mirror finish . . . But stainless steel is not as non destructible as its "non stainless" brothers.

Jiri

BTW I am finishing my university studies in end of june so since that I will have some time for it.

Jiri

I see your point regarding the grind, but many strong military knives have been designed with a full flat grind, all you need is a thick stock then you will have the option of any angle on the edge.
I know that the Busse heavy ordinance steel hart is one hard chunk of INFI steel, that many knves can not match. That nife features a full flat grind. The stock is 5/16" INFI steel.

The steel you are using??? do tell more about it. What "normal steel" can it be compared to?

Cheers,

André

JefferyDenmark :

This knife is designed to be 7mm thick, all steels mentioned are made by powder metalurgy process.

K390 is "modified 10V" steel, with incredible wear resistance, toughness greater than CPM-30V and of course incredible bending strength

(at 63HRC with 5100MPa of bending strength and 44 J/cm2 toughness and wear resistance for about 80-85 points compared to D2 at 60 HRC with bending strength about 2800MPa, 28J/cm2 tougness and wear resistance 3 to 4 points.)

It should be heat treated for range 62-66 HRC, I belive 62HRC is ideal for greater tougness (50+J/cm2) and a little less wear resistance but still many times higher than D2, M2 etc. It is not stainless !

for comparasion 10V at 63 HRC - bending strength 4239MPa, toughness 19-22J/cm2 (half of K390), and wear resistance 90 poinst (K390 80-85 points)


M390 is stainless steel, with great bending strength (4100MPa - tempered to "secondary hardness") and good tougness and wear resistance.

K890 is new high ductile steel, with greatest toughness, it looks like modified 3V steel with greater wear resistance. Not stainless !

Here, you can download pdf with specifications :
http://www.bohler-edelstahl.com/english/b_166.htm

Jiri

I really like flat ground over hollow ground. Yes the hollow is stronger but it doesn't cut as well. Depends if you want to dig holes with it or use it as a knife I suppose.

the chef

Jiri

The steel sounds like it is
Have you ever had a knife in this steel and how does it hold up?
I know that the Busse knives performs very well in "hard use" tests against any steel out there. The INFI steel that Jerry and the boys use is secret steel But you can baton wood forever and the edge will not chip.
I saw a test where Fehrman big blade in Cpm3V was up against the Busse battle mistress (flat grind) and the ferman had no chance.

Cheers,

André

JefferyDenmark: Personally havent' knife from that steel (K390) but "on my reccomenendation" local knifemaker found a piece of K390 for free and made a knife from that. It is so tough that it is almost impossible to hand forge. (he had K390 in round profile and it taken 2 or 3 hours to make flat from that).

He is showing to friends how that knife is non destructible by pulling knife pointed down on concrete etc. - without visible damage.


About INFI steel I belive secret should be heat treatment and design of blade, not steel it self.

Jiri

The stell sounds amazing.
The heat treatment is of great importance Poul Boss is king of that trade
You will make Mick S and Duane D want your knife

Cheers,

André

Andre - Sorry to hijack the thread but have you handled the Busse knives? I am always suspicious of "secret" processes and "Holy Grail" materials. They do look interesting.

I have a Busse Mojo with a EU-17 handle. And are working on getting my hands on a heavy ordinance fusion Steel hart. That knife is king of the 8 inch camp knives. 5/16" convex ground INFI steel.

I have not tested the Busse knives to the limit myself but hope to get the time this coming summer.

Cheers,

André

quote:

Originally posted by JefferyDenmark:
I have not tested the Busse knives to the limit myself but hope to get the time this coming summer.

Cheers,

André

Keep us posted.

INFI steel - .50 C, 8.5 Cr, .36 V, .95 Co, .74 Ni, 1.3 Mo, .11 N There are many myths about INFI but the composition isn't one of them !!!! ..Many seem to look toward the most exotic steels which have been designed for things other than knives. That means spending a lot more for the steel and often not getting the best properties for a knife. ......I just got a Fallkniven S-1 which for me is an excellent handle and blade shape ,a better point design than Jiri's perhaps. It's laminated with VG10 core.

quote:

Originally posted by mete:
INFI steel - .50 C, 8.5 Cr, .36 V, .95 Co, .74 Ni, 1.3 Mo, .11 N There are many myths about INFI but the composition isn't one of them !!!! ..Many seem to look toward the most exotic steels which have been designed for things other than knives. That means spending a lot more for the steel and often not getting the best properties for a knife. ......I just got a Fallkniven S-1 which for me is an excellent handle and blade shape ,a better point design than Jiri's perhaps. It's laminated with VG10 core.

You always have the metallurgical scoop! My problem with the claims for INFI is that with the little bit I know about steel I do not see how it can be so easy to sharpen yet hold an edge forever, and with a relatively high Rockwell hardness it is still supposed to be very flexible. The knives seem pretty popular so I presume they meet the claims. I am just a confirmed skeptic until I see it. NOTE: I am not saying that the claims are inflated, overstated, or incorrect, just that I prefer to trust but verify. I am also far from knowledgeable about knife steel, just barely knowing enough to be dangerous.

Mete

Where did you get the information on the INFI steel?
Thank you for posting the formula.

Cheers,

André

Andre, I searched the internet for a long time before I found it , then wrote it down, but never wrote down the source !! I think only Busse uses it and , though it's supposed to be an excellent performer [according to various sources] there seems to be many myths that go with it . Just looking at the composition it should be a good knife steel but how good I don't know. I have no idea what steel company makes it.Get one and give it a test see if it will completely disassemble a cape buffalo !

Excellent knife i liked the drop point it can bi a good hog hunting knife .Juan

I think that would make a good design for a spear-tip as well. A slot cut in some robust wood or other material with wrapping cord and a 6' or so handle.

The steel sounds interesting. The bend but don't break idea is a good one for a workng knife. I would like to learn more about that steel. I have used CPMS30V and CPM3V and like them both. The angles on the handle and guards give the knife an aggressive look but might be more comfortable in the long run if rounded. Corners hurt when you fall on them or use them hard for extended periods of time. Just some thoughts from another maker.

Jiri,
How does that bending figure you referenced work? Is that resistance to bending or is it a factor of how far it will bend and return to true? Or something else? This has been called a modified 10V. That steel is not all that tough but has extreme wear resistance. How does the CPM3V stand up to the K390? I have used the 3V and it works very well, tough and wear resistant.

348srfun: Ultimate bending strenth represent force (or pressure) which will break specimen. So for D2 it should be 2800MPa, for K390 5100MPa - it mean knife from K390 will withstand much more leverage force etc. But there is of course limit, where plastic deformation will start and blade will not "come back". But belive me, this steel is very flexible. Yes, it is modified 10V, but with 2 times more tougness than 10V. 3V is more tough, but with less bending strength (force enough to break blade) and much worse edge retention.

Bending strength is tested in this way:


Jiri

p.s.: I started this "project" as non compromise. If it will be made (I hope), it will be from "best steel for this type of knife", with best aviable heat treating and machining. And after that, still be "reasonably expensive or cheap".

JIRI, thanks for the detailed explanation. That steel sounds like it is close to ideal for the purpose. I have not used any steel with the wear resistance approaching 10V. S30V is hard enough to get a good finish on for me(we use a hand rubbed satin finish). Good luck with the project.

quote:

Originally posted by calgarychef1:
I really like flat ground over hollow ground. Yes the hollow is stronger but it doesn't cut as well. Depends if you want to dig holes with it or use it as a knife I suppose.

the chef

Hollow ground is not stronger, or you mean "convex" ? Hollow cuts better than flat but it is not stronger . . .

Left to right

Flat grind, Convex (axe) grind and hollow grind: