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Re: Real differences between knife steels?? (EDIT)
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I have a U-2 in my pocket as I'm typing this - it weighs nothing and takes one of the best edges of any knife I own, I hope they make a F-1 out of the laminated powder steel.





I have one in my hand as we speak.
 
Posts: 1408 | Location: MD Eastern Shore | Registered: 09 April 2002Reply With Quote
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ASS_CLOWN: OK, I apologize for the touch of sarcasm in my posts, I felt the same in your post, it looks that this feeling was wrong and my counterstrike in this matter inappropriate too.

Oh my god, I am going ironic again :-)

BTW: I pretty good understand your point of view now, you understand me. The difference is that I think about knives as about prolonged arm and I will never trust something made from low grade material. For me is better to have one 250U$D knife than five $50 knives.

Jiri
 
Posts: 2127 | Location: Czech Republic | Registered: 22 May 2002Reply With Quote
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Speaking of non stainless carbon steels, any information regarding those steels would also be appreciated. Any experiences with 50100, 52100, 1095, 0176, etc. Especially as used by makers like Case in their chrome vanadium lineup, Bark River, and Cold Steel, particularly the Master Hunter and Pendleton. I have a several years old Schrade Old Timer, the Sharpfinger model, with a carbon steel blade, and it has developed just a few light stains on the blade. I never liked the upswept needlepoint blade shape, and so haven't used it in a while. I doubt that I would rust a knife much, but if a stainless knife of similiar price, quality, and edgeholding were available, that could be a plus. I'm absorbing all the information, thanks!
 
Posts: 21 | Location: southeastern US | Registered: 04 October 2004Reply With Quote
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