been using a knithat was given to me as a gift for the past year. It's the first one in D2 I've ever had, and I can say I will not likely have another one in that steel. While I can get it to take a good edge on a set of water stones it starts microchiping along the edge rather quickly, and then has to be used as a saw. I tried changing the angles to leave a little more meat right behind the edge in hopes that it will reinforce the edge some. If I leave the edge rough say only going up through about 220 grit it will cut ok for quite a while, but will not be what I consider truely sharp. I like to take the edge up through at least 600 if possible. M2 has done very well for me, but I would like at least that same level of performance in a stainless. In all honesty I have made a number of knives that held an edge better being made from O-1 or ATS-34. I have a couple blades I have blanked out in S60V that I'm going to try just to see if it will hold an edge better. May also look at BG42. I've also considered S90V but I hear it is no longer being produced. Are there any others you would suggest. The largest stuff I make with any regularity is a 4 inch drop point.

Bob Dozier is considered to be the best for D2 heat treat.You could try one of his. ATS-34,154CM and the better versions CPM 154 and RWL-34, VG-10, S30V all make very fine blades as stainless steels.Properly HT'd they will all make fine blades, poorly HT'd they will be a disappointment !

I've been seeing knives made of RWL-34, but have not seen a chart of it's composition. Most of what I have heard about it is good.

D2 has a reputation for holding s "decent" edge for a long time. Among knifemakers that means it won't hold a scary sharp edge very long or at all. Is hard to get a full bright finish as it orange peels.

S60V is no longer made. You may be able to find 440V which is the same thing. It is a terrific steel.

S30V seems to have similar characteristics except that it is harder to get a nice matt finish on ... shouldn't be, but it does seem to be more wear resistant (and sanding it is definitely in the "wear" category).

HT is the heart of any blade. 154 CM is the material from which ATS-34 evolved. They are essentially identical. 154 CM got "dirty" from lack of care in manufacture and most makers switched to ATS-34. It is getting better I understand. We like to do ATS-34 at RC59-60 rather than harder as it is less likely to chip.

The super steels such as Vasco Wear or CruWear get almost too hard (RC 63 is easy) and are terribly difficult for the user to sharpen. Almost takes a belt grinder. These materials are so hard that all work must be done before HT.

M2 is interesting and some folks who collect tool steel knifes like it very much. Is relatively unusual.

I personally love 440V HT'd to RC60. Darned expensive though.



CPM10V takes and holds a wicked edge a long time but is not a stainless steel and requires the same care as carbon steels.

The composition of ATS-34,154CM,RWL-34,CPM154 are essentially the same. However RWL-34 and CPM154 are made differently with a powder or particle metal which gives finer and more evenly distrubuted carbides and less 'dirt'.Which means easier for the maker,easier for the user to sharpen yet holds an edge better.Probably the best combination of cost/properties. There is also a CPM D-2 version .

I have one D2 knife...a Benchmade Griptillian (exclusive from Cabela's in D2). My experiences mirrored the original poster...a fine edge chipped out and a thick edge was mediocre. After a few years (I love the design so I could live with the average edge keeping) I sent it back to Benchmade for service with a note explaining my results and disappointment. When it was returned (about 4 weeks) it had a new belt clip (a bonus) and a new blade. The blade was easily push shaving sharp and I haven't touched it for over 3 months. It is my EDC, so it gets used, and it is still sharp enough to slice typing paper, though it only shaves with an irritating level of pressure.

The moral is that a good D2 blade apparently can get shaving sharp and stay that way...you just need a good D2 heat treat.