What glue do you guys use to attach handle scales to a knife blade? I have heard of 5 min. epoxie, over night epoxie, fiberglass.

What works best for you???


Thanks

If the handles are wood use gorilla glue and clamlp it tight. A test was conducted on another knife forum using most adhesives. Wood to metal, gorilla glue beat them all out.

Listed is the final results:

For wood handle scales to metal:
Recommended:
Gorilla Glue beat out every other adhesive in every test
Loctite E-120hp
K&G epoxy
Golf shafting epoxy by Golfsmith
Acraglass

Avoid:
Anaerobic curing adhesives
JB Weld

Full tang handles:
Acraglass which was designed almost exactly for this kind of application.

Avoid:
Gorilla Glue or any other polyurethane expanding type glue.

For metal to metal
Recommended:
Loctite Speedbonder 324
JB Weld
PC7

Avoid:
Any CA’s, ie superglues. These have no place in knife making anywhere except to fill flaws in handle material.

For metal to man made materials (ie, G10, micarta, etc)
Recommended:
Loctite 324 Speedbonder or any of the overall use adhesives.

For overall use:
Loctite E-120hp
K&G Epoxy
Golfsmith Golf shafting epoxy
Acraglass (Acraweld is different and was not tested. Acragel was tested and failed)

Any quality epoxy (Devcon, 3M etc) will usually work.
Remember that 5 minute epoxy is water resistant NOT waterproof like the longer setting epoxys.
I generally avoid the 5 minute stuff for that reason.

Surfaces should be slightly rough and clean!
If it smooth and clamped to tight there will be nothing left to bond the pieces.

JB weld is fine for hidden applications but the gray line is far too visible vs clear or appropriately colored epoxy.

Accraglass is used by some makers with good results. I haven't personally tried it yet.

I would have liked to see a URL to determine how those glues were tested.

I have used two part epoxies for years. If you live near a Marine Boating store, they will have some fine two part epoxy glues.

I have used Acraglass, and I can tell you that will permanently glue metal to wood, plastic, whatever.

I like the clear stuff that pours like honey. I have used Evercoat Everfix. I mixed up portions in a dixie cup, added dyes, and used that on knife handles.

This stuff is permanent. Glues wood, wood to wood, wood to metal.

There is always some left in the cup. I let that cure and see how it is curing. When the stuff is totally cured, I cannot flex the silver dollar sized coupons by bending. Have to take a hammer and physically break the stuff.

Surface prep is important. Any wax or oil, and epoxies will not adhere.

K&G epoxy is significantly better than fiberglass epoxy (West Epoxy Systems).

http://www.knifeandgun.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=37

Roughen the steel that you are going to bond to ... either with paper or sandblast. Clean with acetone. Increase the surface area of the skin by cutting grooves into the mating surface. Clean with acetone. Apply epoxy, clamp and let sit overnight at least. Warm to 170F in oven to complete the hardening process. Will last forever.

DO NOT USE s fast setting epoxy!

Metal to metal is well done with JB Weld. I use it for the aluminum skins on combat knifes going "down range." Skins are dovetailed with bolsters in the rear and into the guard in front. They are also cross pinned. Never had one even get loose.

I have some wood on metal handled knifes I made in the 70s. There is wood to wood and wood to metal contact in all of them with no rivets or pins in any of them!

Glued with T-88 adhesive. I figured that if they used it to glue airplanes together it must be strong and it must be pretty long lasting.

Wood (mahogany) is sealed with it also. These knives have not received any rough treatment and that may well change my mind about the glue, but I doubt it!