One thing about this and other type of V sharpners is you don't want to be using it on knives that need constant sharpenning. A friend of mine was using them on the knives in the kitchen he works in, sooner than later, no blade left. They take off quite a bit of material.

For field use is where this thing is real valuable. It's super lite too.

I sharpen knives according to their intended use. For knives that I expect to use with mostly push cuts, I use a 400X diamond, 600X diamond, 800 grit sandpaper, 1200 grit sand paper, 1500 grit sand paper, then a very fine Japanese water stone, followed by a strop. For a blade that is used for more slicing strokes, I stop after the 600X diamond stone. This leaves a coarser edge with microscopic serations that actually aid in cutting with a sawing motion. The mirror polished, super smooth, shaving quality edge isn't always the best in my observation. The sandpaper is always glued to a 3/8 inch piece of glass to ensure a flat surface. When heading into the bush, I would take my duo-sharp with fine and extra fine grit sides.

I use a steel like that *if* it is a serrated one. When pulling your blade horiz. across a serrated steel, it becomes somewhat of a file along with alignment. I have a few steels made from D-2 and W-1 that are smooth.

I have been trying out Nortons syn water stones, and so far love them. I use a diamond plate to flatten them.

The accu is nothing really new,they've been used on broadheads for years. The replaceable sharpner feature is nice. I've seen some of these devices that are real aggressive on softer steels,so I'd use this device wisely.

A stone is really easy to use and if you're serious about knives,you owe yourself to learn how to use a stone. Get a cheap knife and practice,if you're scared to use good knives. A knife that is properly sharpened on a stone,can be quickly touched up on a steel. If you're having problems keeping a knife sharp while field dressing chances are,you need to stay away from cutting so much hair. A knife made of D2 or similar quality steel,should be good for an entire elk and more,without touching the blade.