[IMG]C:\Users\drh\Pictures\Bighorn 100 2010\IMG_1031.JPG[/IMG]

Hopefully, the image comes through.

Here's my 15 year-old boy and his 11 y/o grade gelding halfway through their first 100 ... the Bighorn 100 ... 100 miles in a day.

I think this horse will be ready for elk season!

Anyone else out there do endurance riding?

The pic didn't show up, but I'd sure like to see it.

Still trying to understand how to post a photo ... any links to a tutorial?

I'm not sure exactly what you did, but you're close. Here's a link on pics

http://forums.accuratereloadin...22101325/m/951100671

You have to host your photo on a hosting server.
Your photo above is still on your local C: drive. We don't have access into your C: drive. At least I hope you have some sort of firewall in place.

Place your photo on a online server that is online 24 x7. Something like Photobucket.com, Villagephoto.com, Picaso.com etc.

Other than the location, the syntax of your link looks correct.
Notice the address of the photoserver in my link
http://i130.photobucket.com/al...Horse/2010/Trail.jpg

By placing the [img] and [/img] around that address it will embed it in the message ike this

I once rode my horse 19 miles and it wore both of us out, can't even imagine 100 miles, Whew.

Stepchild

OK, let's try this:

Here's the horse ... just a grade horse, most QH with perhaps some other Arab-ish in him.

We use the Glue-on boots ... here they are being applied before the race. We train either barefoot (yes, even in the granite hills of Wyoming) or with EasyCare Gloves.

Whoops ... double post above ... here is the horse getting glue-on boots prior to the race ...

We train either barefoot or with EasyCare Gloves ... and use glue-ons for competition over 50 miles.

My butt hurts reading about it. Tell me you tacked an extra zero on for the fun of it. I've never hit more than 25 miles in a single day. And I've always had enough of it right there.

My sister used to do endurance riding. It was always all I could do to stay on 8 seconds.

quote:

EasyCare Gloves

Deertick-

What was the rationale for the plastic shoes vs. steel shoes?

Thanks.

Well, lots.

First of all, they are not "plastic" at all. They are a rubber boot, similar to your own hiking shoes or hunting boots.

-- Traction. Nothing works on wet betonite (barefeet are probably best, but even then it's not good.) But the boots work well for traction up and down.

-- Sole protection. Steel shoes do nothing to prevent stone bruises, etc. We pack the boot with stuff called "Goober Glue" which makes the horse "Gel-in' like Magellen," as in the commercials. It protects the whole sole.

-- Temporary. No need for permanent protection when we only need it for 50+ mile rides.

-- Concussion. Would you wear steal-soled boots, or something with cushion? 100 mile rides are done in steel shoes all the time (a couple friends are doing the Tevis Cup this weekend with steel) but this one seems intuitive to me. The best that steel-shoe proponents can do is say that the concussion of steel isn't "that bad," or something to the effect. OK, we're arguing about degree now.

-- Circulation. There is no doubt that circulation of blood is continuous with bare feet or boots, and is not with steel.

-- Completions. We'll know more after this weekend. The Tevis Cup in California is the big 100 of them all, and generally has a 50% completion rate. Last year, boot wearers pulled in a 75% completion rate (a 50% improvement). Now, the company that makes them of course wants to make a big deal of that. And I like the concept, but have to admit that their data is anecdotal as far as I'm concerned. But if it is replicated this year with a larger number of horses, it'll mean a bit more -- though it'll still be anecdotal evidence, just stronger. Personally, I would hypothesize that it has to do with the sole protection and lack of concussion benefits if it proves to be true.

My horses are barefoot for the most part, and we ride almost exclusively on rocky country and gravel/rock roads. Generally, for anything 30 miles and under, we stay barefoot. Arbitrarily, we put protection on for 50's and 100's.

Before I'm branded a crazy barefooter, let me say that I've got a good friend who is a steel-shoe farrier who is riding the Tevis this weekend. I'm not opposed to steel -- it's very convenient to the rider, and works fine for many applications when applied by a good farrier (which is not a given.)

For me, though, this is a simpler (yes, simpler) hoof protection that makes theoretical sense (see above) to me, and so far, we've been rewarded, whereas with steel we had many disappointments. But that reflects my experience, and is as anecdotal as anything that will follow this post!

I googled the easy boots, but it looked like you were using glue-ons.

My horses are bare most of the time, but I shoe them when necessary.

BTW, I'm not knocking the glue-on shoes. By "plastic" I just mean a synthetic material as opposed to steel shoes. I'm guessing the glove boots are a synthetic as well, and not rubber.

They are made by EasyCare, the makers of the old EasyBoot.

But these things are far from your old EasyBoots.

The "Gloves" are just the Glue-on shell with a gaitor attached. They're great for daily use. Many use the Gloves for competition, as well, including my wife at times. The Glue-ons have the advantage of putting the sole packing in for cushion, but for shorter term use, that's not really necessary, regardless of mileage, in fact.

The hardest thing to get people to understand about these new boots is that they are not at all like the old EasyBoots. Fitting requirements are much more strict. And they're good for much more than a "backup" for protection in the mountains. And they stay on, unlike the old ones.

Wow, that is great. Looks like your son and his horse are having a good time. Maybe someday he will be in the Tevis Cup.

I've ridden several of my horses close to 50 miles a day but none of them took it well enough to think about an endurance race. Just picked up (traded for) an endurance bred Arabian. Hope to enter some 30 and 50 milers early next year, then move up to the 100 milers.

Good luck, Treg. Endurance is quite fun. I only do the limited distance (under 50's) ... but have a great time and have learned quite a bit about my horses. And they are really ready for anything now.

Well, the Tevis is over, and these Glue-on boots did well ... overall, there was a 51% completion rate, but 62% for booted horses, and the Haggin Cup -- Endurance riding's highest award, really, for best-of-condition -- went to a booted horse as well.

That's awesomee!

How many hours did it take to do that 100?

Thanks

Generally, 24 or less is a "completion" ... There are several one-hour holds for vet checks and grazing, though.

I remember reading with facination the part of the journals of Lewis & Clark, when on the return from the Pacific, Lewis and his small party rode from the Milk River region to the rendezvous on the Missouri with Clark's party. They did it without any significant rest, because of an unfriendly encounter with Blackfeet warriors. I forget how long it took, but as I remember the journey is more than 100 miles. Upon arrival at the Missouri, by good fortune, it was at the same time Clark arrived at the spot, so they released the horses, and immediately joined the river party. As I remember, the journal notes indicated that they were all very tired. If these tough men were sore and worn out, I can't imagine what it's like for normal people. Good gear and experience seems essential.

I'm relatively sure that the Lewis party's horses were bare footed. Their highest award of course is they lived, and made history.

KB

Just got back from attending my first event. Didn't take my horse, just observing. They did 25 mile competetive, 30 mile LD, 55 mile endurance and 100 mile endurance.
Lots to learn but I'm sure looking forward to next spring!

ETA - Was a very good group of people to be around.

What event did you attend?

Thanks for asking Deertick. This is the one I went to last weekend:

http://www.gldrami.org/resourc...River+Rides+2010.pdf


Will be attending (spectatinging only) this one too:

http://www.gldrami.org/resourc...prings+Ride+2010.pdf

Many people were there from several other states and Canada. Both are roughly 40 miles from home. There are a few others within a reasonable drive as well. Was glad I went to watch the vet ins, etc., at the checks.

My daughter (17) went with me Sun. and showed a keen interest. She has a TB x Mustang that should do well if she chooses to give it a try. Young Mr. Deertick looks to be having a good time, as well as gaining valuable experience in your pics.

You guys done for the year?

Not done yet ... He did another 50 and a 25 last weekend in Nebraska (Wife did her first 50 there) and he'll do a couple more 50's in Denver in Sept and then going to Moab, UT around Halloween.

A Mustang + TB would be a great mix ... and it's a great sport (expensive, though) to get kids involved in ... and great for horses. There's nothing like a 50 to give a horse a new confidence. And a 100 really does the trick.

My advice: do what it takes to find her a sponsor to ride with her for a limited-distance (<50 mile) ride and go from there.

Where are you getting the Goober Glue? I've used the EasyBoot Gloves on the front feet for day rides. But I wouldn't mind trying the glue on for longer rides, like all week at hunting camp.

I used to do a lot of CTR rides. But they got expensive and most were held in Colorado, Which ment my gas credit card bills arived in a UPS Box instead of envelops. So I gave it up. Did a few endurance races. Mt Carmel XP and Antelope Island.

I started the Strawberry Ride and managed it for 7 years before turning it over to Howard. Most of the trails are still ones that I laid out.

About 10 years ago, I moved from Arabs to Foxtrotters and just kinda dropped out of 50 milers. Still enjoy a good 20+ mile trail ride.

They sell Goober Glue on the EasyCare website now ... or on their own website. I generally use Goober to pack the sole and either Gorilla Glue or Vettec Adhere to glue the hoof wall.

If you're interested, let me know and I'll outline the Gorilla Glue procedure -- it's a lot cheaper.

The Gloves or the Glue-ons would be great for a pack in trip.

Yeah, gime the Gorilla Glue step by step.

Do they come off ok at the end of the week.

I'm just tired of paying $50 for boots that get lost or the gaiters get torn every ride.

I've got some Vettec SoleGuard that I usually put on the mares that we pack with. It's the geldings carrying my fat butt that seem to get a little pussy footed.

You can post it here or PM if you want. I'm heading for a week of Elk hunting on Thursday. Trying to decide what to put on the horses before I leave town.

Just got back from elk hunting, too. (Don't ask.)

If you've got Vettec Sole Gaurd, you've got the little "gun" to apply it ... so you can do the same with Vettec Adhere. Just follow the directions on the EasyCare website.

BUT ... it's probably too late to get some Adhere for you. So try the Gorilla Glue ... I haven't had any failures with it.

First, if you're going to have the boot on for more than several days (I've had them on up to 14) then you need some sort of sole packing to prevent thrush. Sole Gaurd works fine, though I think it's a little "stiff" for the purpose ... but it works.

To use the Gorilla Glue, you'll need some supplies: Gorilla Glue, cloth athletic tape, and a little bowl of water. Gloves are nice to have, too.

Apply lines of GG to the hoof wall (NOT the sole) up and down over the whole thing. Then wrap the hoof wall with a couple layers of cloth athletic tape. It will slide all over. I think I actually wrapped the hoof wall with 3 layers, the last one being a little low and sort of curling under on to the sole or the bottom of the hoof wall.

Then, dab your hand in the bowl of water, and splash a little on top of the tape. Squirt a little more GG on top of that wet mess, and apply the boot.

The boot would need to already have some Vettec SoleGaurd in it ... Like I said, I prefer Goober Glue for this, and it gives a bit more time to set up and doesn't need a special caulk gun, just a regular one -- but SoleGaurd works fine.

What happens next is neat to watch. The water, GG, and the adhesive of the cloth tape form some sort of epoxy -- and it sort of "foams" up a bit and somes out of the top of the boot. Don't worry -- just use your finger and smooth it out.

(This is the main problem with the Gorilla Glue method -- it isn't cosmetically appealing -- but you aren't going to a CTR.)

Lift up the contralateral foot for 45-60 seconds, and when they are all applied, tie him up to a trailer for an hour or so.

To remove, just use a big flat-headed screwdriver and start on the quarters. If you've done it correctly, you'll have about a 3-cuss word, 2-beer job ahead of you.

You will be able to reuse the boot if you don't use the SoleGaurd. SoleGaurd is tough to remove. Not impossible, but tough. Gobber Glue has another advantage there.

Sorry to hear about your experience with the boots, BTW. I have had good luck, but fit is critical. I see people who try and try and they still don't work ... and others that have literally 1000's of miles with no boots falling off, and no gaiter rubs or failures.

The difference, I think, is fit. At a walk, I find most people do fine. At a trot, a few failures. At a canter, a few more, and so on.

Some hooves are oddly shaped (either by nature or by farriers) and that makes it tough ... but the glue-ons get rid of a lot of that.

One step short of the glue ons is to use Mueller Black athletic tape -- not sure what it is about that stuff, but wrapping the hoof 3 times, then applying the EasyCare Glove with Gaiter works great. That's the method Dave Rabe uses, and he's got 40,000+ competitive miles and hasn't had a failure. (Of course some of those miles were pre-boot, but he's well in to the 1000's).

I think when someone is putting up numbers like that, with sound horses, varied terrain, high speed, wet and dry conditions, we have to take the boots seriously -- much more than the old "Easy Boot."

Just realized I forgot something ...

I've done it without roughing up the hoof wall with a rasp, but I've found that the Vettec Adhere definitely adheres better when you apply to a hoof wall that has been roughed up with a rasp (rub it with the side of the rasp rough enough that you think you are making the horse tickle a bit).

I don't know if it's necessary with Gorilla Glue, but I'd do it. I've done it with and without, and never had a "fail" but I'd err on the side of caution.