Hello Guys

I’ve had the same set of spurs for more than 20 years, they are a locally forged set of very plain slant hanger in a “cutter” style with 1 ¼ shanks.

Since reading the article on spurs in a recent Western Horseman I’ve realised my aids might be more effective if I had spurs more suited to my build and horses– I’ve long legs and ride smallish horses!

So I’ve cast around and seen a couple of styles I think might suit (something like the Cowpuncher’s 603 or a Tom Balding #8 shank).

What I can’t figure is whether I’d be best with slanted or straight hangers – what does each type do different to the other? Is a boot thing or strap thing or how they move on your boot (I wear low ropers, usually just cheap Dan Post’s). Any help or comments appreciated.

I'll give this one a shot since nobody else has. Personally, I don't like a real long shank, like the TB #8. You may find that you get spur contact long before you've finished making leg contact and may well be doing some poking when you don't intend to. That being said, it really depends more on your particular way of riding. I think that the angle of tilt of the shank, (angled up as opposed to dropped) may help you more than just length, if what you are saying is that your heels extend below the horses' belly.
I'm just under 6' and ride 2 year olds (smallish cuttin bred) regularly with short shanked spurs similar to what you already have. Fits me, but a part of enjoying horses is experimenting and trying out different types of tack, so you aren't doing anything wrong to try out something different.
As to the hangers, I don't think that you're gonna notice any real difference there. The slanted hangers may well make your spur leathers too long and cause you to have to trim em up a bit and punch a couple more holes due to the shortened distance across your boot. For me, the most important part of having the spur fit your boot well is the boot. I really prefer to have a boot with a spur ledge.

IMO, the most noticeable difference between spurs is always the rowel. Many folks wear spurs with fairly small rowels thinking that they are being gentle, when the reverse is actually true. The larger rowels are spreading out the same amt of pressure over a larger area, thus are less severe. I generally prefer a fairly blunt rowel of at least 1" diameter. 6 pt blunts are my bread and butter.
I have a very nice custom made pair with fairly sharp 10pt rowels and 2"+ shanks, and I hardly ever wear them because they are a bit too much for most horses, until they get fairly broke.
Hope that helps..

I only wear stright spurs. It keeps them out of the way unless I need to use them which is seldom, ocassionally while roping which is my hobby I will use spurs to move my horse over a bit to get into roping position...Sometimes to side pass but only on a younger horse..

I like a short go small spur for roping and I like my big Crocketts on the ranch horses. I am kind of a spur person, I like to use them and I collect them. I always use blunt rowells, never a sharp rowell, no need to hurt a horse, spurs are to guide a horse and allow him to know when a little extra speed is needed. Used improperly they will ruin a good horse.

98% of folks would be better off not using spurs at all as most are constantly sending mixed signals to the horse..Some horses don't need spurs, some do, some are better with them and some should never be rode with a spur.

Hey thanks for the advice guys, much appreciated.

I got ahold of a Texas spur-maker called Todd Bowman, he is going to make a set for me, he'll look at some picture of my position on the horse etc to get them as optimal as possible.

Cheers

Normal rules are that shorter legs use a dropped shank, longer legs straighter. Your riding style can make that not work out too. I ride with my knees way up, almost jockey like, and need a little longer shanks so I can make sure I touch a horse when I need to not a half second too late. I ride cutters, so everything is pretty much done with seat and legs/feet so never ride a horse without spurs. There is a place for a sharp/more severe rowel, just as there is a place for prong bits, cathedral bits, correction bits, snaffle bits, etc. They are training aids and obviously shouldn't be overused. When we are showing a horse we often use a more severe bit than we practice with, then when you ride into the arena and stop them a couple of times, they are well aware that when the cow stops, their tail had better be in the dirt. Spurs are kind of similar, occasionally you may need to use a 'rock grinder' rowel to wake up a hard sided horse, and then not use them again for two months. As Ray says, you have to know how to use them, in my riding they are used to create bend in a horse, to hold their butt still, move the front over, get their ribs out of the way so they can turn and keep them straight in a run. They are indispensable and they make all those different rowels for different uses and different horses and different days. A good rider/trainer will have at least four different spots that they will use spur pressure to move a horse around. A good standard is about a 1.25 in rowel in a 10-12 point for everyday use. I have moved to a straighter shank as I've become more experienced because I don't hit a horse by accident and the closer I am to the horse with my spur the more accurate I will be with my timing of the pressure.